BBird TALK

TOENAIL CLIPPING - GROOMING 101?

To what extent is nail clipping the foundation of professional grooming?  Are groomers expected to clip nails, no matter what behavior the dog(s) manifest?  Is the stress of nail clipping a reason to not do it?  These questions are running through my mind as I fume, yes FUME, over the finale of Groomer Has It and Lisa Leady’s  failure to win the title Groomer of the Year possibly because of her decision not to clip the nails of a mouthy, distressed, Irish Terrier. 

I will tell you why I am upset.  I think one of the big failures of our industry is the failure to acknowledge the importance of  grooming stress  on animals in our care.  Lisa Leady made a decision that “the stress wasn’t worth it” and declined to wrestle down the dog to do the toenails.  This decision was totally dishonored by the judging panel.  Even the veterinary judge, who last year was such an advocate for the animals, on this matter said, “Why didn’t you just muzzle the dog?”  Behavior management was placed above stress management.  I hate to see this established as a professional model. 

Two years ago, at a local grooming establishment, a five-year old Boxer died on the table when three people held him down for a nail trim.  These groomers were simply doing what it took to get the job done.  They managed the behavior without regard for the deadly potential of the stress.  It was not the first time I had heard of death-by-nail-clipping.  A year before that, I got a frantic call from an inconsolable groomer who had a 16 week old puppy die after being wrestled down for its nails during its first (and last) grooming. 

Doing whatever it takes to get the job done is what I call the “cowgirl” model of grooming.  This is how I was taught – put on your Big Girl panties, toughen up, and get the job done.  The short coming of this model is that it teaches us regard our work as hand-to-hand combat rather than a challenge of how to do our job with the least amount of stress on the animal. And it fails to recognize the potentially fatal power of stress on animals.  Bad behavior is often a manifestation of the inner stress the dog is feeling, but is sometimes regarded as simply “attitude” or retaliatory behavior.  The dog is considered bad, not the stress.

There are times when nail care is clearly demanded, and time when it’s not so clear.  When nails are dangerously long, curling under, growing back into the foot pad, or affecting how the dog walks, it can be obvious that nail clipping is worth a little stress.  As a matter of routine, however, of Grooming 101, is nail clipping necessary no matter what?  How much stress is too much, or how much stress is “worth it”?  That’s a judgment call, and if a groomer of the experience and reputation of Lisa Leady is not to have her judgment respected, then what hope do the rest of us have? 

 

TIME AND PET GROOMING PRODUCTS

            I enjoy reading groomers’ descriptions of their bathing rituals, what products they use, the sequence they employ, and how long they let various products “set up” on the coat or skin.  These descriptions are shared in the sincere belief that the ritual and timing is as important to the result as the products themselves.  Although I honor the value of ritual in giving us confidence in our results, some of these rituals are based on myth and fiction. Today we will look at some facts in the relationship between time and use of pet grooming products. 

SHAMPOO CLEANING AGENTS

            MYTH: Leaving a regular shampoo on longer will yield better cleaning.

            FACT: The action of cleansing surfactants is instant.

            FACT: Movement of the cleansing surfactant through the coat is more important to better cleaning than is additional contact time.

            FACT:  The possibility of skin irritation from the shampoo detergents (contact dermatitis) is increased with increased contact time.  Some detergent cleansing ingredients, such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, that have been removed from many human bubble bath products, because of a high incidence of contact dermatitis following soaking in the products.  These same ingredients are used in many pet shampoos.        

FACT:  Mechanical action, scrubbing or massaging product through the coat by hand or water pressure through a bathing system, is more important to thorough cleaning than increased contact time.

ANTIBACTERIAL, ANTIFUNGAL AND THERAPEUTIC AGENTS

            FACT: Most antibacterial and antifungal agents require 5-10 minutes of contact time with the skin to be effective.  It is important to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the label. 

            MYTH: Leaving a medicated shampoo on longer will give better results.  Not true, although leaving it on less may compromise the desired results.  Leaving a medicated product on longer may risk skin irritation from the detergent ingredients. 

CONDITIONING AGENTS

            A very basic generalization is that agents that require penetration of the skin or hair cuticle need time to do this.  Penetration is never instant.  Conditioning ingredients that have been made cationic and simply attach to the hair surface, can do so quickly without set up time.  Most conditioning agents are of this type.  The best indication of what type of ingredients are in a conditioner are the instructions on the label.  If the label says to leave the product on for 2-5 minutes (or more, as in a remoisturizer), it means that it requires that time for full effect.  If the label does not suggest a time frame, most likely the product acts quickly. 

Another way to tell if conditioning ingredients are cationic is to look for the suffix –onium. This means that the ingredient has been “quaternized” or made cationic.  This clue, of course, only works for products where the manufacturer discloses ingredients. 

CONCLUSION: Many conditioning agents, especially more sophisticated ingredients, act instantly and do not require long “set up” time.  Old-fashioned ingredients, and many less chemically sophisticated agents require time to work. For many regular conditioners, there is no benefit from greater contact time than is suggested on the label.

TEXTURIZING AND BODYIFYING AGENTS

            Texturizing is usually accomplished either by adding stiffening ingredients, or omitting ingredients that soften the coat.  Texturizing products do not usually require extended contact time.  Bodifiers may require penetration of the hair cuticle.  An example of a bodifier that needs a few minutes of extra contact time would be Chris Christensen Thick N’ Thicker Foaming Protein.  Spray-on products usually have instant effect.  Again, the manufacturers instructions are your best clue.  The best practice is to use a timer to be accurate in your set-up time. 

PESTICIDAL AGENTS

            Flea and tick products almost always require a few minutes of contact to be effective, especially the more natural ingredients.  Leaving products on for longer than the manufacturer’s instructions, however, can lead to irritation or even toxicity.  Putting pesticidal or medicated products on pets and leaving them sit in a cage while the groomer does other things risks overexposure to either the active ingredients or the detergent surfactants. 

COLORING AGENTS

            This is another group of products that requires careful timing and care in use.  It is important to use color enhancing shampoos on thoroughly wet coat unless otherwise instructed, and for only the recommended contact time.  If too much pigment is deposited under the hair cuticle lens, you will have a dye job instead of color enhancement. 

            There are very few products where lengthy contact time has better effects.  In terms of shampoos, extended contact beyond that recommended on the label may risk contact dermatitis or toxicity.  Color enhancing ingredients, bodifiers, and some deep conditioning ingredients may benefit from extended contact, but many ordinary shampoos and conditioners work very quickly and extra “set-up” time is wasted. Anionic cleansing surfactants and cationic conditioning ingredients work instantly, like magnets, and thorough application is more beneficial than more contact time.  Always read and follow the instructions on the label. And remember,

           

           

           

HEAT STRESS IN THE GROOMING ENVIRONMENT

As summer approaches and things begin to heat up in our workplaces, it is important to review the facts related to heat stress.  The following article was published on the GroomBlog in June, 2006.

In the wake of another newspaper story of a pet death occurring in a grooming salon, apparently from the unattended use of a heated cage dryer on a puppy named "Phoebe", it is of vital importance that all professional groomers review our operations and become acutely aware of the possibility of heat stress and heat exhaustion in ANY grooming environment.

           It is common following a fatal accident at the groomers that other professionals immediately distance themselves from the unfortunate event. In other words, rather than thinking "There for the grace of God go I", the groomers say, "THAT could never happen to me." How quickly we play the Blame Game, naming the person who left the puppy in the heated cage, the shop where it occurred (we have a 'salon', THEY have a 'shop'), the use of a heated dryer, the failure to use a timer on the dryer, the manufacturer for selling a dryer that gets too hot and does not shut off automatically when the temperature reaches a certain point, or even the question that the dog may have had a health problem, or a predisposition to heat stroke. SOMEONE must be held responsible!

Accidents happen when a number of factors line up. Such as:

• A self-absorbed bather steps outside for an extended smoke break.
• A dog is left unattended in a cage with a heated dryer going.
• The dryer does not have a automatic timer or shut off.
• There is tension between the bathing staff and management, and management is letting them "cool off", and is not providing supervision to the back room.
• No procedures for use of cage dryers or signs of heat exhaustion are posted.
• It is a high volume, high stress operation and it is easy for 1/2 an hour to slip by.
• Groomers are focused on what's happening on their tables, not what's happening in cages.
• It's hot in the grooming room to start with and everyone is just dealing with it.
• Time is of the essence so the dryer is cranked up on high.
• Temporary summer help does not necessarily know the signs of heat exhaustion in the pet, or how fast it can happen.

          Any one or two of these factors could occur without a fatality resulting. But should they line up, you have a recipe for disaster. In order to prevent fatalities and illnesses related to heat stress at our jobs, we have to constantly be aware of ALL the factors ALL the time.

          Here is something else that we should all look at: Dogs AS A SPECIES are predisposed to heat exhaustion. Heat exhaustion occurs when the ambient (surrounding) temperature and humidity are above tolerable levels and the animal's body begins to acquire heat from the environment faster than it can dissipate that heat. In dogs and cats that have very few sweat glands to begin with the only means of dissipating excess body heat is via panting. This movement of air over the moist tongue and airway surfaces increases evaporative cooling (unless the ambient humidity is 100 percent). Unfortunately, panting is a rather inefficient means of dissipating body heat and actually generates some heat due to the muscle activity involved. Keep in mind that as an animal is confined to a closed space the expired air, which is at 100 percent humidity and 102 degrees, will eventually increase the ambient humidity and temperature of the animal's space. (petcenter.com Heat Stroke in Dogs).


          Heat exhaustion is not just a function of temperature. The factors that may interact to create heat stress and can lead to heat exhaustion or heat stroke are: Room air temperature, external heat source, humidity, confinement, ventilation and air circulation, animal's ability to breathe and pant. Availability of drinking water is another factor.

          Humidity level is a big factor in how much evaporation can occur. Evaporation affects not only the hair drying, but the dog/cat's ability to dissipate the heat. When the ambient humidity reaches 100%, the panting-cooling mechanism is worthless. Since the dog is exhaling 100% humid air, the size and structure of the confined space is another important variable. Also, the dog is exhaling hot air, 102 degrees, so an unventilated small box can become deadly at a very low external heat, even as low as 85 degrees.

         The practice of covering a cage with a dryer on it can be deadly, even if the dryer heat is less than 100 degrees, because the dog itself is heating and humidifying the air inside. Even without an external heat source, a covered cage can become an oven, especially if there is an excitable dog in there, or an animal with compromised cooling ability. Having water available can help, as water on the tongue cools down the air the dog is inhaling and helps to regulate the internal temperature.

DOGS AT GREATEST RISK
There are certain dogs or certain conditions that make heat exhaustion more of a concern:

• Dogs with short noses, pushed in faces, or poor breathing mechanisms. Shih Tzu, pugs, pekingese, boxers, bulldogs, are all at high risk of rapid heat exhaustion. Shar Pei have also been identified. Don't forget persian cats.
• Dogs with collapsed trachea or respiratory problems. Any dog that is wheezing, coughing, breathing heavily or shallow breathing.
• Muzzled dogs - Dogs wearing muzzles cannot breathe or pant efficiently on warm days. Heat strokes have been reported in dogs standing under a grooming parlor dryer while muzzled.
• Fat dogs.
• Very old dogs.
• Very young dogs.
• Dogs with heart difficulties.
• Dogs with hypothyroidism or Cushings Disease that have trouble with internal temperature regulation.
• Dogs on certain medications, especially diuretics.
• Excessively excitable dogs or dogs who are distressed from separation or kennel anxiety. According to Joy Butler, a writer for Suite 101, "Some dogs can have a heat stroke in an air conditioned room if they become overexcited and active."
• Dogs that arrive overheated, from a ride in a hot car, or having been heavily exercised.
• Dogs that have previously experienced heat exhaustion or heat stroke.

          Another important factoid that is worthy of repeating: The dog's breath being exhaled is 102 degrees and 100 percent humidity. Put that dog in a poorly ventilated crate, and there could be overheating without the presence of an external heat source, especially if the room hair is warm and humid. Add another couple of factors, such as no one watching dogs in crates, or a dog with a breathing problem to start with and again you have a line-up of the Universe that could lead to an accident.

          A misconception that we must dispell is that a dog that is overheating is going to get frantic and somehow signal to us that it's dying. NOT SO! A dog is not necessarily going to try to claw its way out of a hot cage, nor is it always able to bark if it is busy hyperventilating. The dog can just sit or lay there and stare out and be overcome.

SIGNS OF HEAT EXHAUSTION

• Rapid, frantic panting
• Wide eyes, fixed stare
• Not responsive, "out of it".
• Thick saliva
• Bright red tongue, or blue-grey tongue and gums
• Vomiting
• Staggering, inability to stand
• Diarrhea
• Coma

WHAT TO DO
Not all of these symptoms need to be present. If a dog is panting, has a staring expression, is unresponsive and has a cherry red tongue, you've got a problem. If a dog has vomiting and diarrhea and is unable to stand, you've got a problem. What will tell you if you have heat stroke is obtaining a rectal temperature. Every first aid kit should contain a rectal thermometer. If the pet's temperature is over 104 degrees, you've got an emergency. The dog should be cooled and transported to the nearest vet immediately. If the temperature is 106 or hovering around 106, you have a life threatening situation. You should take measures to rapidly reduce the temperature. Each minute at that temperature can mean brain damage and irreversible damage to internal organs. Cool the dog. Placing wet towels on the dog and putting him under a fan is one way. Wetting the groin area also can help. When the temperature cools to 104 or 103, stop cooling efforts or you may cause a too rapid loss of temperature.


PREVENTION TACTICS

• Monitor room temperature and humidity, and temperature inside cages, especially if there is a heated cage dryer in use. Digital thermometers are available that are the size of credit cards and can clip to the inside of kennels. (WalMart)
• When using heat producing dryers, especially cage dryers, use timers. With the right line-up of factors, fatal heat stroke can happen in 15 minutes. This is why the 10 minutes on, 10 minutes off for cool down, is recommended procedure. Some groomers use backup timers in case the timer on the dryer fails or you don't hear it.
• Do not muzzle dogs in heated cage dryers or on tables with hot air dryers.
• Clearly establish that pet safety is the responsibility of every employee.
• Post the signs of heat exhaustion in a conspicuous place.
• Consider using fans - many groomers have moved away from using heated cage dryers and use fans around wire cages or ambient air dryers like the Sahara Turbo.
• Improve room air circulation - adding exhaust ventilation to the bathing room, or placing fans around your premises in such a way that air is constantly moving helps make cooler air available to your pet guests.
• Consider investing in a dehumidifier - with dogs exhaling 100% humidity, and high velocity dryers forcing water off dogs and into the air, the chances are your drying room could have high enough humidity level that it could be adding to the risk of heat stress. This possibility is greatly increased if you are using swamp cooling rather than air conditioning or work in a area of high humidity. Not only will this investment make your premises more safe for animal guests and employees, the dehumidifying will reduce drying times.
• Have water available for your guests. A really nice gesture is to have a bowl of water or a recirculating fountain system near the front door of your establishment. Dogs can cool off after their trip, and owners can see that you are aware and care. In the back, dogs at risk or dogs having an extended stay (over three hours) should be offered water.

CONCLUSION
It is important to recognize that heat stress and the potential for heat exhaustion and fatal heat stroke are a concern for all pet grooming operations. Although heated cage dryers and solid wall cages are a formula for potential problems, it is not the drying method nor the equipment that is to blame for pet deaths. Accidents happen when heat is not used responsibly, and the danger of heat and animals is not appreciated. All employees need to be aware of the signs of heat exhaustion and the animals at higher risk. Risk factors need to be determined by asking the right questions of the owner.
Whether or not a groomer continues to use heat producing cage dryers is a professional choice. These dryers have been around for decades and are used responsibly in hundreds, maybe thousands of grooming establishments each day without incident. Automobiles are involved in fatal accidents; is that a reason to stop driving? No. We try to make cars safer. Cage dryers can be made safer by the installation of internal timers, heat sensors and automatic shut off, and such. Groomers who wish to continue using heated cage dryers need to start asking for safety features, and appreciating that saving one little life is far more important than having a dryer without an (annoying) timer that shuts it off before the dog is dry.

          Even groomers who refuse to use heated dryers are not immune to the problems of heat stress, however. Given the right line-up of factors - a hot back room, humidity that has accumulated during hours of high velocity drying, an animal with a compromised respiratory system or a heart condition, and whammo - IT COULD HAPPEN TO YOU! What makes the matter so important is that the internal effects of heat stroke can be irreversible and if a dog survives, it can be messed up for life or live a considerably shorter life.
          In the summer months it is important that all groomers raise their alert level to the possibility of an overheating incident happening

 

CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW? MINIMIZING MISCOMMUNICATIONS

 

Does it sometimes seem as though employees or customers must be deaf, or perhaps understand in another language?  Most of us take communication for granted, and we assume that because we have the intention to communicate , we will be heard and understood.  Not so, say writers in the business communication field. Here are some common pitfalls these writers identify that get in the way of getting our message across.

We assume that what is said is what is heard, and what we hear is what was said.  There is a big distinction between hearing and listening.  Much gets in the way of our actually absorbing what another is saying, including our own personality traits, mental and physical distractions, concentration ability, emotions, and even health and well-being.  Listening ability can vary from person to person, day to day, moment to moment.  Effective listening is a skill that requires practice and development.  We cannot count on our customers or employees to be working on it. (But we can work on ourselves)

We think people think like us.  It is not realistic to assume that everyone grasps the same meaning from any particular statement.  Cultural background and family communication styles and personal background often affect how people interpret what we say.  Because we do not all think alike, it is necessary to ask questions and request feedback in order to establish that our intent is clear.  Simply delivering your message is not enough.

We hear through our own thoughts and feelings. Because our thought speed is much faster than speech, the listener’s brain can start working ahead of the speaker.  This results in drawing conclusions about what is being said rather than hearing it all, and thinking about and reacting to what is being said rather than listening.  Effective listening requires putting your own mind on a leash. 

We sometimes bury important  messages  by saying too much.  We can be guilty of saying too little or saying too much.  Giving too much reasoning and justifying ourselves can result in our key points being lost in the shuffle.  Likewise, if we are busy being an “expert” the key element can be obscured.  Practice highlighting and underscoring your speech so as to make your emphasis clear, and repeat key points or summarize for your listener if you have covered a lot of ideas. 

We like to be right.  Here is what Goldie Newman of Mandel Newman Associates, a communications writer and coach, says about this:  “We like to be right and there is a belief that winning at all cost is worth it.  One of the greatest myths is that assertive behavior results in people getting what they want when they want it: that winning arguments and getting in the last work is the ultimate goal.  If we allow ourselves to accept this myth, then there can be no dialogue and no communication.  There is a fine line between aggressive and assertive behavior and having to be right all the time crosses that line.  Assertive behavior involves negotiating and problem solving.  It recognizes motivation, personal self worth and respect for differences.  Although we like to be right, it does not always bring us the results we want in the long run.”

We (unintentionally) make people feel judged or insufficient.  Being an expert or being the boss carries a responsibility for delivering our messages without transmitting guilt, blame and judgment.  When people feel judged, listening is shut down, and defensive thinking begins. 

We draw conclusions before we have the facts.  After we reach our “conclusion” about what is being said, we may ignore information that does not support our conclusion and interpret other information so that it supports our conclusion even if we have to “bend” the information to fit. When listening, suspend judgment while you listen to the other person so that you can receive the information from them without adding your own “spin”.  When speaking, get feedback from your listener to make sure they are getting your real point.  A good example of this communication pitfall is when our clients “hear” the veterinarian say that a post-grooming problem must have been the fault of the groomer.  The vet may have mentioned the grooming as one of several possibilities, and the pet owner draws the conclusion that we are to blame.

We tend to hear what supports our own thinking.  Taking in information that is contrary to what we already think or believe requires an open mind and an open position.  To determine if your listener is blocking your message, you can ask for feedback.  “Does this go along with your thinking?” “What do you think about this?”  These questions will help you know when you need to clarify your point.

WHAT CAN WE DO TO BE HEARD?

          We have listed only a few of the common communications pitfalls that can get in the way of being heard.  Here are a few things you can do to make your speaking more effective:

Practice effective listening.  If you are listening intently to the other, putting your own thoughts on a leash, suspending judgment, and repeating back to what you think you are hearing, you are modeling for your listener.  When people feel heard themselves, they are more likely to listen to you.

Speak with the INTENTION of being understood. Look at the person to whom you are speaking, have some eye contact.  Speak clearly, at an appropriate volume.  Lean slightly toward the person you are addressing. Watch for clues in the listener’s body language that they are understanding what you are saying.

Repeat important messages.  Don’t expect your listener to get it the first time.  Say your important points in more than one way. Teachers tell us that, in order for learning to occur, a point must be stated three times.  Don’t take communication for granted.

Make important points stand out from the general conversation.  Highlight and underscore in your speech.  You can even say, “Here’s an important point that I’d like to make.”  That tells your listener it’s time to go into a concentrated listening mode in order to “get it.”

Ask for feedback and response.  Don’t assume that what you said was what was heard.  Ask questions, such as, “Is that how you see it?” “Am I being clear?”  “What do you think?” 

Make sure your body language and tone matches your message.  Folding arms, shaking head in disbelief and rolling eyes are to be avoided as they indicate judgment or disinterest. Shifting your weight from side to side suggests impatience.  Failure to make eye contact conveys insincerity.  Also be careful that you are not sarcastic or overly chiding in your tone.

Let go of your need to be right.  We often state our views as non-negotiable, the bottom line.  Speak and think in terms of “a way” rather than “THE way.”  Overly authoritative behavior inhibits any kind of dialogue.  People will withhold information and their thoughts and not share with you, rather than be made “wrong.”  Assertive communication encourages negotiating, problem solving, planning and discussing.  It recognizes that we are open to new ideas and perspectives and realizes that we cannot accept or incorporate all of them.  The final decision is an informed decision because it is based on a collaborative process.

Think in terms of negotiating agreements with others, rather than just giving instructions. Admonishing pet owners for lack of care rarely works to achieve better pet care.  Making them feel worthy and asking for agreement works ever so much better.  Instead of saying, “You’ve got to brush him out more if I’m going to leave him fluffy,” say “If you could agree to do more combing at home, I could agree to leave more length.”

Incorporate the concept of “what works”.  This is especially important in negotiating agreement from customers and employees.  Asking people if an agreement works for them and speaking in terms of what works and does not work for you gives you a non-judgmental way of encouraging their cooperation.  For example, if a pick up time is simply assigned, without confirming that it works for the client, they may not tell you that it is going to be difficult for them to make it.  If they say that it works, however, it is a much stronger agreement.  The “what works” concept serves you in setting limits and explaining policies and procedures, without necessitating a lot of explanation and does not imply judgment.  It simply works or does not work.  Practice using this and you will be amazed at the results in your communication.

HERE’S TO IMPROVED COMMUNICATION: MAY YOU ALWAYS BE HEARD!

Copyright Birdzye Press, BBird author, May 2009.  Contact Barbara Bird, bbird@dakotacom.net, 520-795-5743 for permission to use any content.  Thanks.

BIRTH OF A PRODUCT - HAPPY HAIR HERBAL OIL

This week I am launching a new product through my aromatherapy persona, The Scented Groomer.  I thought you might be interested in my sharing the process that I went through to bring this product to market. 

About The Scented Groomer.  Some twelve or more years ago I attended a seminar at GroomWest in Colorado on aromatherapy.  I thought it might fit into my holistic grooming practice.  I came home inspired,  and started “playing” with aromatherapy in my grooming salon.  Out of that experience, The Scented Groomer was born and I developed my own line of stress management aromatherapy products for groomers and dogs during grooming.  

PHASE I- INSPIRATION MEETS DEMAND.  There were two sides to the demand.  Last fall, my distributor, Show Season, asked me to develop something new for 2009.  About the same time, on two different groomers email groups, there was discussion about “what ever happened to hot oil products.”  Voila! Light bulb!  The idea occurred, “Hey, maybe I could make an herbal oil for spa grooming!”

PHASE II – RESEARCH. A flurry of Googling followed.  I also pulled all my aromatherapy books off the shelf.  After much reading, I decided to use either Jojoba Oil or Olive Oil as the base.  Jojoba is widely used in hair conditioning products.  A Japanese cosmetics company once sent me a sample of virgin Olive oil for hair and I remember loving it.  Then my research revealed that that the Olive oil has natural antioxidant properties that help make it practically self-preserving.  

PHASE III – PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT.  This was an extensive phase.  I had to find a source of the base oil.  I wanted an extra virgin organic Olive oil that was affordable.  Then I started trying herbal infusions.  I started with Rosemary from my own yard.  Can I say, “labor intensive”?  Harvesting the sprigs, cleaning, drying and separating leaves from stems took days and I had only enough for one little batch.  It was great stuff, but not exactly yummy for a hair product.  My Rosemary oil was a nice cooking oil.  I left the Rosemary behind (we may pick it up again because it has terrific value for hair, skin, and massage.) I tried several other herbs, including Lemongrass, Burdock root, and Chamomile.  My favorite, however, was organic Lavender  flowers.  Oh yum yum in my kitchen, and very nice infused in the Olive oil.  I settled on a combination of Lavender and Lemongrass. 

PHASE IV – A SET BACK.  I loved the Lavender/Lemongrass oil.  I used it on myself, my dogs, my clients dogs, myself again.  The fragrance was delightful, but to my disappointment I discovered that within three weeks the original oil was losing fragrance value.  Back to the drawing board.  I had already researched some essential oils that could be used in my product. I chose a couple that had great fragrance value as well as aromatherapy benefits and some history of use with hair and skin.  To my Lavender/Lemongrass Olive Oil I added a small amount of Palmarosa and Ylang Ylang essential oils.  

PHASE V – MARKETING.  While I developed and settled on the final formulation, I worked on my marketing approach.  I thought I would go with a theme that suggested “spa” so the product could be used as a spa treatment.  I spotted a new item in the Pet Edge catalogue, doggie bathrobes.  How spa is that??  I bought a bunch.  While I waited for delivery, I started working on what I would say about my product, the label, the instructions, all of that.  How would I present it?   I wrote, rewrote, ran it by friends, put it away, took it out again.  

PHASE VI – PHOTO FUN.  Trying to get a photo of a dog in a bathrobe looking happy proved difficult.  I wanted to use my mixed breed, Gracie, but she was less than delighted with the modeling assignment.  Belle, my Bichon, did a little better.  I submitted pictures of both dogs to my Groompics group and our Photoshop masters, who had fun adding bubbles and duckies.  The photo I picked was embellished by Jenifer Watt of Watt-a-Dog in England.  Here is what we ended up with.

HAPPY HAIR HERBAL OIL SPA TREATMENT for Pets and their People

  HAPPY HAIR HERBAL OIL has been formulated as a simple and natural nourishing and replenishing treatment for hair that can be used as a spa treatment. Not only is it great for hair, it has calming and balancing aromatherapy benefits. 

 HAPPY HAIR HERBAL OIL can be used on dry or damp hair.  For maximum treatment, warm oil by placing the bottle in hot water, apply moderately to dry hair and wrap in a towel.  Leave for at least 5 to 20 minutes. Hot or not,  a good result is  obtained by simply rubbing oil on palm of hands and running through hair.  Do not overuse, and use sparingly on fine soft hair.  Leaving on longer will achieve a greater effect.  It can also be used after shampoo on toweled hair before conditioning. 

INGREDIENTS: Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil, organic Lavender flowers, organic Lemongrass, essential oils of Palmarosa and Ylang Ylang with a bit of Vitamin E (Tocopherol Acetate).

HAPPY HAIR HERBAL OIL TREATMENT can be purchased exclusively from Show Season Animal Products or bbird.biz.  

DILUTION RATIOS - I did the math!

    Figuring out how much shampoo or conditioner to use to obtain the proper dilution ratio can be confusing to some groomers.  Being great at math is not in our necessary skill set.  Here is an explanation of how to figure it out, and a chart that gives the amounts of product for 32 ounce mixing bottles and one gallon. I hope this is helpful for someone, because as you were out and about having a life last Saturday night, I was sitting here grappling with the math.  Who loves ya'?

PRODUCT DILUTION CONVERSIONS

    Most products come with a suggested dilution ratio expressed as the parts water per one part product.  For example 16:1 would be sixteen parts water to one part shampoo.  To determine how much shampoo to mix, first convert the size of your container into ounces (32 oz mixing bottle, 128 ounces for a gallon) and then divide by the ratio desired.  In a 32 oz bottle, 16:1 would be 32/16 = 2 ounces shampoo.  A gallon amount would be 128/16 = 8 ounces product.  Here are some common dilutions rounded to the nearest ½ ounce.

DILUTION RATIO	OUNCES/32 OZ BOTTLE	OUNCES/GALLON
4:1	8 oz. (1 cup)	32  oz. (4 cups)
8:1	4 oz. (1/2 cup)	16  oz. (2 cups)
10:1	3  oz.	12  oz. (3/4 cup)
12:1	2.5 oz.	10.5
16:1	2 oz. (1/4 cup)	8  oz.  (1 cup)
24:1	1.5 oz.	5 oz.
32:1	1 oz.	4 oz.  ( 1/2 cup)
50:1	.5 oz.	2.5 oz.
84:1	(1/3 oz)	1.5 oz.

    For best performance of products, it is important to measure accurately.  Failure to measure is a waste of money and can result in poor performance of some products.  To avoid product contamination, mix only what you will use in a day or two.  Many groomers use a bartender’s shot glass as a measure for mixing shampoos and conditioners.  Remember that the average shot glass is 1.5 ounces.  A “pony shot” is typically one ounce. 

    Excessively hard water may require a slightly higher ratio of shampoo for best performance.  High mineral content can impede cleaning ability of surfactants and can require an adjustment.  Increase the concentration in small increments.  For example, if you are not getting good cleaning at 12:1, change to a 10:1 mixture. 

    Pump type bathing systems that recirculate product can perform under entirely different dilutions.  For products offering 10:1 or 12:1 dilution, start with a one ounce of shampoo per 1.5 gallons of water.  For products suggesting 32:1 dilution, use only ½ ounce shampoo per 1.5 gallons.  Adjust according to your results. With conditioners, start with 1-2 ounces per 1.5 gallons water for light conditioning, up to 4 ounces per 1.5 gallons for maximum softening, detangling or deshedding. 

STILL GROOMING AT 69

GROOMING AT 69

YIKES!  How did this happen?  It’s my birthday and I’m sixty NINE years old.  Where did the years go?  What do I have to say for myself and what can I share about working as a senior groomer? 

I’ve been grooming since I was thirty one, and I’ve owned my business since I was thirty seven.  Being this old has some great perks and equally great drawbacks.  The greatest advantage is that I get more respect.  My physical appearance speaks of experience and wisdom.  I like that.  I don’t like HOW I look, but I like how my clients react to me - It’s like instant credibility. 

The other really fun part of grooming at this age is that I have become very good at grooming.  Last week, one of my OWN grooms took my breath away.  Now that’s common for me at dog shows or grooming competitions when I see fantastic looking dogs, but usually when I look at my own work, I am critical. I think, “Not quite there, Bird.”  Nowadays I have to shut up and accept that my work is excellent. 

My personal learning curve has been slow and sporadic.  I was fortunate to have a very masterful mentor under whom I apprenticed, Bill “Scissorhands” North, a local legend.  His artistic eye and extraordinary styling and scissoring skills both inspired and intimidated me.  Most of all he provided a visual standard against which I still measure my grooming today.  There were years and years, decades really, when I felt I would never measure up.  I had several flat spots or plateaus in my learning process where I thought I had topped out and was as good as I could be. Fortunately, this was not so.  Something would come along to inspire another growth spurt, a challenge of a new breed, attending a dog show, watching a grooming competition, attending a clinic.  Photographing my own work and working on certification as a master groomer helped improve my grooming skills.

On the downside of 69, there is my body.  Thirty-eight years of this work have taken a severe toll.  I should own stock in Advil, as I certainly support the company.  My hands hurt all the time.  I hate to even tell you about my back, it is so bad.  Five years ago my chiropractor looked at my x-rays and told me that I had the back of an 85-year old.  He was no longer comfortable adjusting me.  Unfortunately, the fragile condition of my back means that any form of exercise can throw me into a bout of excruciating sciatica.  Almost any grooming on my feet can render me crippled at the end of the day. 

If I had it to do over, I would take better care of my body.  Pet grooming is a physically demanding occupation.  Equipment like anti-fatigue mats and supportive shoes seemed so b.o.r.i.n.g. when I was younger.  Nowadays I can’t stand on a concrete floor for 15 minutes without suffering, and I can’t even think of wearing anything other than orthopedic shoes.  Please let me tell you this: If you are intending to groom for longer than 4-5 years, and/or you want to groom past age 60, then it is vitally important that you take care of your body today.  The kind of accumulated stress injuries and wear and tear degradation that we endure from pet grooming cannot be undone later. There are no “do-overs” of your body.  

There are a few measures that I have taken to take care of myself which I think have extended my productive grooming life:

·         Sitting down to groom is one that I wish I had done sooner rather than later. If I had sat down more from the beginning, my back would be much less messed up today.

·         The Hanvey LIPS system of over-the-table restraints, especially the flank strap has made a big difference in my ability to survive. Leaning over a table or tub and struggling with dogs is debilitating.

·         A Bathing Beauty recirculation bathing system has saved my hands for more important work on the table.

·         Using small trimmers, such as the Laube Speed Feed or the Wahl Tidbit for feet and small jobs has helped me manage the arthritis in my hands. 

·         Using a variety of small tools, scissors, brushes, combs, has also helped my hands survive.

·         Committing to managing stress – external and internal.  I have learned to recognize those things that are stressful for me, including toxic internal dialogue.  This helps me prevent meltdowns and dysfunction.  One example is that I recognize that I no longer have tolerance for disorganization at my table.  I look at the book each day and see what dogs I will be grooming, put together the tools I will need, and put away everything else.  That way I don’t have to have a little fit three hours later when I can’t find my yellow stripping knife. 

·         Managing expectations and treating myself like a fine racehorse instead of a mule.  Simply put, there have been times when I pushed myself beyond reason instead of honoring my limits.  Don’t do this….okay?

 

GOAL SETTING FOR GROOMERS

Let’s face it; grooming is one of those careers where we tend to drift along year after year. There is no well-defined ladder of success in pet grooming. Another year has just rolled by. What can we do to make 2009 a year of growth and accomplishment? The answer is goal setting.

Most highly successful persons practice goal setting. There is a significant difference between setting goals for the year and making New Year’s “resolutions”. Annual resolutions are often general intentions or wishful thinking. “To lose weight,” “to give up smoking”, “to be a better boss”, are typical New Year’s resolutions. Goal setting is what translates your good intentions into action. Here are some suggestions for setting goals that will move your career (or life) forward.

1. Goals must be specific and measurable. “To be more successful” is a fine ambition, but is much too general. Your idea of success must be translated into measurable terms, such as making $100 more per week. “To become a better groomer” is hard to measure. More measurable is “To learn how to groom two new breeds to their breed standards,” or, “To attend a grooming seminar or clinic.”

2. Set a time frame for each goal. State what you intend to accomplish and a date by when it will be done. Setting a time frame is what helps you move toward your goal. “To lose weight” could be translated into “To lose 10 pounds by March 15, 2009.

3. Goals should be tied to actions. Let’s say that you have a clear intention that you want to improve your grooming skills. Some sub-goals that could lead you to that broad goal could be: To find a coach or mentor; to enter a grooming competition; or, to attend a grooming clinic. These actions will lead you to improvement. Or if your broad goal is to earn more money at your job, you could have an action that involves becoming a specialist in a certain type of grooming, so that you can become more valuable to your employer. Examples are to master cat grooming, or to become exceptionally good at large dog de-shedding, or to become expert at Bichon Frise grooms. The goal of becoming a Bichon specialist could be tied to the actions of attending a dog show, or watching or entering a grooming competition. Also, you might want to associate a sub goal of obtaining a suitable Bichon model with an owner who wants a scissored trim. The more specific you can be, with actions or steps under each specified goal, the more successful you will be in your accomplishment.

4. Keep your goals realistic. Your goals should require a stretch, but be attainable. If you a novice groomer and are currently completing three or four dogs a day, setting a goal of grooming ten dogs a day may not be realistic. Reaching for six or seven by June 1, 2009 could be do-able.


5. Written and shared goals are the most powerful. Mumbling your goals to yourself while watching Oprah is not nearly as powerful as having a written document entitled Goals for 2009. I've found that my goals have the most power when I write them down and tack them up where I can see them. This year, I'm converting the bulletin board over my desk to a space for posting my professional goals. Sharing goals gives power to your intentions, but be careful to share goals with people who are supportive, not your niggling naysayers.


6. Review and revise your goals periodically. Goals should not be cast in stone. They are guidelines and should be flexible and able to be revised as life happens. When you realize that you are not achieving your established goals, take the time to adjust the time frame, change your set actions, or re-define the goal.  The more you work your goals, the more they will work for you.

Are you ready? Try on some goals and see what happens. Goal setting improves with practice. Make your first goal be to set some goals with actions and time frames. Setting goals can be a powerful process. It brings clarity and commitment to your intentions. Here is one of my favorite quotes on the subject of committed intention:

“…the moment one definitely commits oneself, then Providence moves too. All sorts of things occur to help one that would never otherwise have occurred. A whole stream of events issue from the decision, raising in one’s favor all manner of unforeseen incidents and meetings and material assistance which no man could have dreamed would have come his way.” - William Hutchinson Murray, Leader of the Scottish Himalayan Expedition who scaled Mt. Everest 1951.

QUIT TAKING IT PERSONALLY (Q-TIP)!

BBird’s Words:

TAKING IT PERSONALLY -T.I.P- IS A REFLEX.

NOT TAKING IT PERSONALLY - Q-TIP - IS A CHOICE.

Taking it personally is one of my favorite subjects.  It is also one of my biggest personal challenges.  Since I am guilty of doing this myself, I can easily recognize it in others. I think taking it personally causes problems for many pet groomers.  We are often unconscious about how it affects our relations with clients, coworkers, employers and managers.

 

WHAT IS T.I.P. “TAKING IT PERSONALLY?”

Whenever you interact with others, you can hear them and let go of their words, or take what they are saying personally. Taking it personally is often the result of perceiving a person’s actions or words as an affront or slight.  This perception is your interpretation.  To take something personally, you must read negative intent in an individual’s words or actions.  However, what other people do and say is based on their experiences, emotions and perceptions, and has little to do with YOU.  They are just saying and doing; YOU are interpreting it. If you interpret it as personal, you may feel hurt without reason. 

 

Elayne Savage has written extensively on this subject.  She states that when we take things personally:

·          We perceive someone's actions as a personal affront.

·          We feel slighted or wronged.

·          We get upset when others don't see things our way.

·          We believe others are taking sides against us.

·          We feel blamed or blame ourselves.

 

Dr.Savage states that taking things personally is connected to feeling rejected – betrayed, judged, criticized, intruded upon, humiliated, or bullied. We feel "dissed"

in some way – disrespected, discounted, disapproved of,  or unappreciated. Someone says or does something – or neglects to say or do something - and we find ourselves overreacting.

 

HOW T.I.P. SHOWS UP

Here are some ways in which taking it personally shows up at the workplace:

·         Inability to accept professional criticism - it is received as a personal attack. Being constantly defensive – the person who is blaming others is avoiding personal blame.

·         Easily angered and aggressive – attacking first is a form of defense.

·         Being arrogant and diva-like - this builds walls around the ego.

·         Easily crying or “losing it.” – conflict is unbearably painful and results in a meltdown.

·         Winning or being right is more important than problem solving - every crisis becomes a battleground.

·         Perfectionism and inability to complete work – fear of being judged keeps the perfectionist from calling the job “good enough”.

 

For the professional pet groomer, T.I.P. can have serious consequences.  An inability to accept criticism can limit professional growth and development.  It can also interfere with communication with clients.  Clients can recognize when we have trouble with criticism and may choose to keep silent about complaints.  They don’t want to hurt our feelings.  If these unexpressed complaints pile up, they may leave and go elsewhere without communicating.  Taking it personally stifles communication.  It  can also be a source of internal pressure and stress.  It can affect how we view clients, and can contribute to groomer burnout.  It may limit our ability to solve problems.  This can result in feeling boxed in and stuck in a miserable situation. 

 

WHERE T.I.P. COMES FROM

Having hurt feelings and taking it personally comes from our interpretation of someone’s words or actions as having hurtful intent.  These interpretations often relate to key experiences and repeated messages of our childhood.

 

Old hurts can trigger T.I.P., especially those occurring in our families, with childhood peers, teachers, and other relationships where we experienced rejection or disloyalty.  We can replay a painful childhood event of betrayal hundreds of times in hundreds of scenes with different actors. Some types of people, situations, or messages trigger our instant replay, and suddenly we respond through our old filter.  We feel as though our customer was our alcoholic parent, competitive cousin, or neighborhood bully. They act. We interpret, we feel “dissed”.  The more it hurts, the more likely it is to be attached to some old garbage.   

 

INTERPRETING – JUDGING OTHERS

One aspect of how we interpret others is whether we judge them.  When we assign negative labels to people, we are more likely to interpret their words and actions negatively. Sometimes we will even seek agreement from coworkers, or our Internet friends that serves to justify our feelings.  Agreeing with each other about our negative judgment of clients, coworkers, managers, or employers makes it extra difficult to Q-TIP.    

 

SITUATIONAL AND HEALTH FACTORS

            There are times when we are more likely to take it personally.  At new jobs and in situations where we are not well established, we are more likely to react this way.  In addition, when we are under a lot of stress, fatigued, or suffering from ill health, we are more likely to assume the worst. When we are happy and healthy, we give people the benefit of the doubt, and are more likely to operate from an intelligent assessment than an automatic reaction.  

 

Q-TIP (QUIT TAKING IT PERSONALLY)

We are all guilty of Taking It Personally. It is unrealistic to expect ourselves NEVER to react in this way. Our goal should be to manage and control our tendency to take it personally. By first recognizing when we are reacting in this way, we can then choose a more productive position. We can Q-TIP.

 

In our grooming work, it is especially difficult to Q-TIP, because it is a very personal product. Each groom is the result of our personal time and effort on that dog. We take pleasing our customers very seriously. You cannot get much more personal!

It is very understandable that we might get defensive when the client is unhappy.

 

 

HOW DO WE Q-TIP?

Success requires a commitment to communication and problem solving that is greater than our need to be “right”.

 

MAKE THE COMMITMENT: Simply wishing for improvement or change is not enough; make a commitment to Q-TIP.

 

IDENTIFY YOUR TRIGGERS: In what kinds of situations are you most likely to take it personally? Are there times when you are more at risk?

 

OBSERVE YOURSELF IN ACTION: Notice how you are and catch yourself in the act of taking it personally.

 

CREATE SOME DISTANCE BETWEEN YOURSELF AND THE UPSET: Take a deep breath, excuse yourself and get a drink of water. Sometimes you can reschedule the conversation for a better time when you are less vulnerable. 

 

CHOOSE TO LET IT GO: Make a choice NOT to go with your automatic first reaction. Consider that the person may be having a bad day, a bad marriage, a bad life, or a personality disorder.  Deal with the situation professionally and remind yourself, “It’s not about me.” 

 

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE: Changing emotional habits does not happen overnight. Every time you are successful in realizing that you are taking something personally and choosing not to “go there”, you gain power over your subconscious. Expect to slip-up.

USE A VISUAL AID:

Let an actual Q-tip be a visual reminder of your commitment and practice taking it professionally rather than personally every day in every way.

 

 

 

References:

(Elayne Savage, www.queenofrejection.com)

Elayne Savage, Don’t Take It Personally! The Art of Dealing With Rejection, iUniverse, Inc. 2002.

UNDERSTANDING STRESS FOR PET GROOMERS

How does stress show up for you?  It is important to be able to identify your own signs of stress.  What signals do you get at work that tell indicate that you are in a stress mode?  Here are some symptoms of stress that have been identified by mental health professionals. 

HOW STRESS SHOWS UP - SIGNS OF STRESS

Cognitive Signs: Memory problems, indecisiveness, Inability to concentrate, trouble thinking clearly, poor judgment, seeing only the negative, anxious or racing thoughts, constant worrying, loss of objectivity, fearful anticipation.

Emotional Symptoms: Moodiness, agitation, restlessness, short temper, irritability, impatience, inability to relax, feeling overwhelmed, sense of loneliness or isolation, depression or unhappiness.

Physical Symptoms: Headaches or backaches, muscle tension and stiffness, diarrhea or constipation, nausea, dizziness, insomnia, chest pain or rapid heartbeat, weight gain or loss, skin breakouts, loss of sex drive, frequent colds.

Behavioral Symptoms: Eating more or less, sleeping too much or too little, isolating yourself from others, procrastination, neglecting responsibilities, using alcohol, cigarettes, or drugs to relax, nervous habits (e.g., nail biting), teeth grinding or jaw clenching, overdoing activities, exercising, shopping, hobbies), overreacting to unexpected problems, picking fights with others.

The pressures and demands that cause stress are known as stressors. One person’s stressors may not be all that bad for another. What is stressful depends on many factors, including personality, general outlook on life, problem-solving ability, and available support systems.  What are the stressors in your work situation?  Identifying your stressors and your signs of stress are key elements in stress management.  Stress management is critical to career longevity as a pet groomer. 

External Stressors – Pet groomers share some common causes of stress. Difficult pets, clients with unrealistic expectations, being overbooked, all can push a groomer to the edge. A disorganized workplace, poorly performing equipment, unreasonable employers, coworkers who don’t pull their share of the load or who themselves are acting out their stress, are factors which can create stress.

Internal Causes of Stress –Not all stress is caused by external pressures and demands.  Your stress can also be self-generated.  Internal causes of stress include: Uncertainty or worries, pessimistic attitude, self-criticism, unrealistic expectations or beliefs, perfectionism, low self-esteem, unexpressed anger, lack of assertiveness. 

Effects of chronic stress – The human being is designed to withstand short bursts of acute stress. Prolonged stress or “chronic stress” that doesn’t let up can challenge even a well-adjusted person’s ability to adapt. When sustained or severe stress overwhelms our coping resources, serious mental and physical health problems can result.

Emotional effects - Chronic stress grinds away at your mental health, causing emotional damage in addition to physical ailments. Long-term stress can even rewire the brain, leaving you more vulnerable to everyday pressures and less able to cope. Over time, stress can lead to mental health problems such as: anxiety, depression, eating disorders, and substance abuse.

Health effects - Recent research suggests that anywhere from 60 to 90 percent of illness is stress-related. The physical wear and tear of stress includes damage to the cardiovascular system and immune system suppression. Stress compromises your ability to fight off disease and infection, throws your digestive system off balance, makes it difficult to conceive a baby, and can even stunt growth in children.  Hypothyroidism, adrenal problems, chronic fatigue and other hormonal imbalances are common to pet groomers and are related to chronic stress.  It can also result in high blood pressure, diabetes, heart disease and stroke.  Chronic stress is not something that should be accepted as “part of the job”, and should be dealt with or avoided.

TIPS FOR STRESS MANAGEMENT - Don’t be a passive victim of your stressors.

·         Practice Deep Breathing – Stop for a minute and take several deep, full breaths.  Deep breathing can actually reduce the physical impact of stress.

·         Aromatherapy works – The Scented Groomer, available through Show Season, has several essential oil products blended especially to help control the effects of stress. 

·         The Five Minute Vacation – When you have time, spend a few minutes imagining in detail a vacation retreat spot.  Visualize the surroundings, whether it be mountain or beach, and find the sights, sounds and smells that might be there.  When you notice yourself losing to your stress response, you can visit your vacation spot for five minutes and get some relief.  Don’t just hide out in the bathroom, take a vacation! 

·         Don’t Be a Lone Ranger – Even the Lone Ranger had Tonto.  Get a groomer buddy and join a support group. 

·         Music therapy  (note: it only works if YOU like the music)

·         Take a Spiritual Bath –Did a difficult customer or a coworker give you grief?  “Wash away” your stress by an imaginary cleansing of your aura, and swoosh off the negative energy into a sink basin or your tub.  If this is too far out for you, just splashing the face with cool water can help.

·         Manage Your Mind – Work on your internal stressors to minimize their impact.  Create positive thoughts to substitute for negative or pessimistic “tapes” that run you; practice self-praise to replace self-criticism; control perfectionism; honor yourself; practice being assertive with clients.

·         Attend Trade Shows & Seminars – Take home equipment, tools, techniques or ideas that will make a positive impact on the stress you experience at work.  Have a plan on how you will implement change.  Remember that change, even positive, can be stressful.  How can you engage others around you to deal with the stress that your change might involve? 

Actively planning for stress and its management makes the effects of your stressors less powerful. 

By BBird, as presented at Atlanta Pet Fair 2008, all copyrights apply.

references: Ellen Jaffe–Gill, Melinda Smith, M.A., Heather Larson, and Jeanne Segal, Ph.D. Understanding Stress: Signs, Symptoms, Causes and Effects, www.helpguide.org