Golden Paws Schools

My Dog is Not Matted!!

By Mitzi Parrish, Golden Paws Schools

 

I think those are some of the worst words us groomers hear after we just felt Fluffy and we know it is going to be like shearing a sheep or even worse the dog’s top coat is all nice and brushed out, but all the undercoat is matted. It is hard to feel and even I have been fooled on occasion. Then I have to try and discuss the options to the owner over the phone and it is harder in person.

We have heard all, from “Oh, Fluffy got out this morning and came back in all tangled” and I am thinking to myself “No, this is 6 months of you not brushing him and then bathing him! Can’t they see the big matts hanging there?” Then there is “We left Fluffy with a friend for 2 weeks and they didn’t brush poor Fluffy” again I am thinking to myself pretty much the same as above. My favorite is… “Well, Fluffy came home from grooming with a matt and it spread”.

These are the extreme cases and I don’t even have to feel a dog to know they are matted through and through when they come in looking like they have not had a hair cut in 3 months. We are in the prime season for these kinds of dogs but it happens year round. This is one of the most diplomatic areas a groomer has to be good in. One because you hear it so much it drives you crazy. Just who is the expert here? Two the owner is very sensitive about how they are perceived about caring for their dog. “I brush him all the time and HE IS NOT MATTED! Or, they will say “I know he has a few matts can you just cut them out?” I always try to explain that Fluffy will have large holes here and here and so on. So what can you do? Educate your client, have empathy and try to take away any feelings that they may have that they are not a good dog owner. After all they really do not know 90% of the time.

The last thing you have to decide is if it is worth retaining them as your client. Spend some time with them- Talk to them, sympathize with them and love on their dog. Bring out you trusty slicker brush and greyhound comb. Explain how the tools work. “Yes, they did an excellent job brushing the top coat”. Show them how to layer brush the hair and they have to see skin and brush from the skin out then comb check their work as the comb will come to a dead stop on a matt or a tangle. This is also a good time to sell your client a brush and a comb. Try to show the client the anatomy of a matt. Usually by this time Fluffy is yelping his head off even though you are being oh so gentle. Remember what they perceive. Ask if they bathe Fluffy at home most time they say yes then let them know that it is important to brush and comb check BEFORE the bath and then after when the hair is dry.  Explain to your client it is like our hair if we were to wash and wash our hair only brushing the top layer and each time we do that the water is setting the matt like cement, getting tighter and tighter on top of the skin.

Offer choices to them but be sure to let them make the choice:

1. If you can brush out Fluffy without causing any injury (brush burn) or pain let them know how much extra it will cost them as you will not be able to do another dog during that time. 
2. You could do a modified cut. Scissor off the long hair and it might be a doable job, sometimes on a long haired dogs you can pop out the matts with a #10 blade or you can shave them down and then they can start over as they know now how to keep them brushed out.
3. You can offer brush outs in between grooming or a mini trim to maintain the long hair.
4. If your client insists that they can brush their dog out let them just reassure them that if it doesn’t work out to bring their dog back and you will take care of it. 98% of the time they will be back in saying that it’s too hard and Fluffy will not cooperate. At that time go over their choices again.
Anyway, try not to pull your out and run screaming through your shop after the sixth client that day that has told you “Oh no, my little angel is not matted because I brush him every day!”

Enjoy and Keep a good sense of humor!
Mitzi

www.goldenpaws.com

Dog Communication and the Alpha Position

Hi Everyone!

Communication is important in any relationship.  The relationship you currently share with your pet is one of love, enjoyment and fun.  You nurture him and make him feel secure in your love by feeding, petting and taking care of him.  In a case like this it is a two-way relationship where neither one of you is demanding anything from the other.

Pets that we groom are a different type of a relationship.  You need them to cooperate with you so you can groom them in a safe manner.  You will need to know how to communicate with the pets on a different level so they cooperate with you.  To do this you have to know how dogs communicate with each other.

In most dog relationships there is an Alpha dog, or a leader.  The dogs who are the followers will submit to the Alpha dog.  During the grooming process, you will have to become the Alpha dog so the dog will submit and cooperate with you.  How do you do this?  Develop the inner qualities that make the Alpha dog.  Attitude, determination, confidence, strength, honor and commitment are the qualities that make an Alpha dog.  Most people possess these qualities. You need to become aware of them and use them to establish your position. 

An Alpha dog has black and white boundaries, they are confident and they know who they are.  They have the determination not to back off, an all-or-nothing attitude and no fear.  You have to add the feeling of love and affection.  If you do not add the love you will only instill fear in the pet instead of the respect you want.  The dog needs to respect and trust your Alpha position.  You need to connect with the pet with love, and the quickest way to get in touch with this emotion is to think of your own pet and then transfer that emotional feeling of love to the pet you are grooming. 

Once you have connected with the pet on an emotional level, you create a bond between the two of you and if the dog misbehaves you correct him in the same familiar manner you would use with your own pet.  If your pet was misbehaving you would correct him firmly with love and not let him have control over the situation.  The pet you are grooming will sense your love along with your authority in the same way, and he will trust and respond to you in a positive manner, even if you have to correct him. Your hands are an extension of your emotions and they will help to communicate to the pet what you want him to do.

It is best to not be verbal with the pet.  It confuses him, and this can be disruptive to other groomers who are concentrating on their work.  You have to get things right within yourself before you can exercise your Alpha position.  If you do not the dog will sense weakness and he will take control.  Think of yourself as the leader (Alpha) of the pets.  Dogs communicate and express their feelings with their body language.  Happy feelings will be expressed with cute actions and tail wagging.  Challenging, assertive or aggressive behavior will be expressed with growling and challenging body actions. 
When you see one dog attempting to challenge another, you will see this type of body language.  If one dog does not submit to the other, sometimes a fight will ensue between the two dogs to establish Alpha position.  The fight is all about establishing dominance and normally is done with purpose and honor.  When one of the dogs submits to the other the fight will end.  The only time the fight does not end is when one of the dogs, for some reason, is an unusually aggressive dog, not a true Alpha dog.
This has been explained so you will have an understanding of dog relationships with one another, the way they communicate and how they express their feelings.  Do not worry.  You do not have to establish your Alpha position in the same manner as the two dogs would.  You can use a safe method of handling techniques to establish your position.  It is all about developing the Alpha inner qualities, the understanding and use of body language along with safe handling techniques.  All of this will develop respect, not fear, from the pet.

Pets are loving and wonderful.  You want them to behave so you can groom them in a safe manner and make the grooming experience enjoyable for the pet and yourself.  The other thing for you to understand is to not give mixed messages to the pet.  The time for hugs and cuddles is when you take the dog out of the cage or when you are through with his grooming.  When you are hugging and cuddling him you are telling him it is time to love and play.  This is confusing to the pet as he will think his grooming is finished and he can go home.  When the pet is on your table he is looking to you to let him know what you want him to do.  Make sure you are giving him a clear message.

This small portion is from the Golden Paws Complete Guide to Dog Grooming which has over 600 pages of pictures, illustrations and instructions of step by step learn to groom or improve your dog styling skills. For ordering information go to www.goldenpaws.com or call 888-808-7297.

Sincerely,
Mitzi

Pet Behavioral Problems & Solutions Part 4

Hi Everyone!

Last time we covered 6, 7 & 8 out of 12 Behavioral Problems and Solutions; Previous Bad Grooming Experience, Teased & Taunted, and Fear

In this series we will address 9 through 12, Puppies, Older Dogs, Medical Problems and Aggressive Dogs.

Sample Behavioral Problems & Solutions

There are different types of behavioral problems you may encounter when you are grooming the dogs. The information in this section will explain the problems, the reasons why, and what to do when a problem occurs.  You will need to determine what the reason may be behind the bad behavior before you can try to correct the problem. 

The main reason for most behavior problems is broken trust.  You have to gain the dog’s trust and sometimes you will not be able to do that.  It will depend on the dog.  If you cannot find a reason for the pet’s resistance, then it may be the pet has learned that being somewhat dramatic at home gets the results he wants and he is now trying it with you.  If this is the case you will have to establish your Alpha position and maintain it with the pet.  If the pet continues to resist you in a strong manner, then you may have to call the owner and see if there might be another reason for his behavior other than the ones listed. 
1) DISCONNECTED                                                                       7) TEASED AND TAUNTED
2) INCORRECT HANDLING POSITION                                        8) FEAR
3) ALPHA DOG                                                                              9) PUPPIES
4) CAGE BITER                                                                            10) OLDER DOGS
5) FIRST TIME GROOM                                                              11) MEDICAL PROBLEMS
6) PREVIOUS BAD GROOMING EXPERIENCE                         12) AGGRESSIVE DOGS 
Most dogs will behave like little angels.  They want to please you as long as they clearly understand what you want them to do.  There will be some behavioral problems you may encounter with the dogs for various reasons.  Listed below are some of the reasons dogs may misbehave.

9) PUPPIES
Puppies, those wonderful cute cuddly bundles of joy!  They can try your patience when you try to groom them.  Look at them as you would a small child.  They have a short attention span, not very much patience and they have not developed self discipline yet.  Up until now their owners have loved and spoiled them, which is very easy to do.  They are so cute and cuddly.  You will want to do it, too.  It will be your responsibility to instill some discipline in them so they will behave for their grooms (see first time grooms).  Puppies are young and inexperienced when it comes to grooming, so you have to be understanding and patient with them.  It is better not to push the puppy beyond his limitations for the first few grooms, keeping his grooming simple.  Sometimes the client will want their puppy to have an elaborate groom, but this is not fair to the puppy.  Explain to the client how important it is for the puppy to enjoy his grooms.  He will need to gain some grooming experience before he can behave for an elaborate groom.  Most of the time the client will appreciate your concern and be agreeable to waiting until the puppy is older.  There might be some client’s who may be adamant about the puppy receiving this type of groom.  In a case like this it is better for you to do the groom than for the client to go somewhere else.  You know how to handle the puppy in a good manner.  Someone else may not have been trained as well, and the puppy may have a bad experience.  The important thing here is the puppy and how he is handled so his future grooms will be enjoyable.  Explain to the client you will do the best you can.  The other thing to watch for with puppies is they do not have the same bladder control as adult dogs.  They will need to go to the bathroom more often.  Most of the time, the puppy will go to the bathroom in his cage after his grooming.  Keep checking him and put a towel in the cage.  The towel will help absorb the moisture and hopefully keep the puppy from soiling himself.  If the puppy does have an accident and you have to re-bathe him, be patient with him and remember he is like a small child who can have accidents.  Ask the client’s to please not feed their dogs before they bring them in as this will create problems for them.  The dogs are in cages and they are not free to go to the bathroom when they want to.

10) OLDER DOGS
I like to refer to older dogs as canine senior citizens.  As dogs age their tolerance level is not as great, and some of them are in pain.  They do not like to leave the security of their homes, and they are apprehensive about new people and new places.  Some of them cannot tolerate parts of their grooming as well as the younger dogs.  Older dogs will not be able to stand for a long period of time.  They are more fragile and things bother them more.  The older dogs will react to the simplest of pain or discomfort, and they do feel pain more strongly than younger dogs.  Older dogs can resist you for these reasons.  You will need to be gentle with them, more so than normal, because they need your compassion and love.  Do the best you can with the quality of the grooming.  Their comfort and care are more important than the quality of their session.  You may have to let the older dogs lie down and adjust your grooming skills to accommodate them.  When you are not able to groom them as well because of their problems, be sure to explain this to the client.  If a client brings in an older dog that is matted and you feel it would be too painful to brush the hair mats out, you need to explain to the client why it would be better to shave the hair off.  If it is during the winter the dog will need to wear a sweater so he does not get cold.  Older dogs can have bladder problems and may need to be taken outside periodically to go to the bathroom.  It is best to schedule the older dogs in and out so they do not have to be away from home for a long period of time.  As groomers we need to be gentle and understanding with these canine senior citizens and do the best we can so they will enjoy their groom as much as possible.

11) MEDICAL PROBLEMS
Some dogs may misbehave if they have medical problems.  They may have had a previous injury that is still painful to them or they may have a current painful condition that is causing them some pain.  When you begin to groom a particular part they, may resist you more than usual.  Large dogs have a tendency to have hip dysphasia while smaller dogs have a tendency to have weak stifle joints (knee joint problem) in their back legs.  The degree of the hip dysphasia can go from the mildly discomforting to highly painful.  In a situation like this, the dog will let you know what is or what is not comfortable for them.  The grooming quality is important, but the dog’s comfort and safety supersedes the quality in situations like this.   The back leg stifle joints can be weak on small dogs and this can cause them pain and discomfort.  Some dog’s stifles can be so weak the joint can pop out.  This is painful for them but normally it will pop back in on its own.  The dog will not be able to stand on his leg and he will hold it up.  Do not try to pop the joint back in.  The dog himself will know how to let the stifle joint work itself back in.  The stifle joint can pop out on the dog on a regular basis when it is really weak, even if he is at home.  Small dogs should not jump up and down on their back legs as this creates problems for the stifle joints.  A lot of client’s do not know this and encourage the dog to do this because they think it is cute.  You may have to modify the control positions if they are causing a problem for the stifle joints.  The stomach position, the two back pads, and the two back feet positions are the ones you may have to modify or find another method to use.  These positions will put pressure on the stifle area and this could cause the stifle to pop out.  You can use these positions, but you will have to make sure you are not putting weight or pressure on the joints.   When it is too painful for the dog in these positions you might not be able to use them.  You may have to leave the dog standing on all four feet and work on the stomach from each side.  The other choice is to get someone to help support him so the weight is not put on his back legs.  For the back pads or the back feet positions you can use them, but make sure you are holding your hand in a way where you are supporting the joint so there is no weight or pressure on the joint.  You need to quickly groom the back pads or the feet so there is not any discomfort to the dog or it is minimized.  You will need some assistance if the dog continues to resist you or you may not be able to groom that part of the dog.  Any dog that has a medical problem needs our compassion.  If we can groom him in a safe and loving manner we need to do it.  Maybe the groom won’t be as perfect as we would like, but we are groomers because we love dogs and their comfort and safety comes first.  Put aside any fears and be confident knowing they can be groomed safely as long as you use the safety guidelines.  Some of the other medical conditions you will encounter are abscessed teeth and sore gums, which can be quite painful.  This will cause the dog to react to you when you are applying pressure around the mouth area.  You might be putting pressure on the mouth when you are using the yoke position where you wrap some of your fingers around the muzzle.   Check to see if the teeth and the gums are unhealthy.  If this condition is present you will have to modify this hold in a manner where you are not putting your fingers around the muzzle.  Another problem the dog can have is an infection of the inner ear.  The ear leather can also have a condition where it is red, swollen and infected.  You have to be careful how you hold these areas or try to not hold them at all.  If the inner ear is severely infected and the dog is reacting because it is painful, do not pluck the hair out or swab inside the ear.  This is a medical problem for the veterinarian, but do not tell the Client to take their dog to the vet.  Making this decision is their responsibility.  Your responsibility is to inform the client of the area that appears to have something wrong with it.  It is up to the veterinarian to diagnose the condition.  Whenever you feel a condition is very serious and you think the dog needs immediate attention, you might tell the client that they may want to call their vet and explain the dog’s condition to him.  You will be able to see most of the medical problems the dog may have, like painful skin problems, sore feet, ears, teeth or eyes as you groom the dog.  The dog may have infected anal glands.  This will be explained to you in more detail in the bathing section.  Some dogs can have epileptic seizures while they are in your care.  Do not let this scare or upset you.  The best thing to do (if the dog is small enough) is to wrap him snugly in a towel and hold him securely in a snug manner to you so he can feel safe with your emotions of love and confidence.  Most of the time this will bring him out of the seizure quicker that leaving him alone in the cage.  After the seizure put him in a quiet cage on a towel and let him rest until he becomes alert again.  Call the owner and let them know their dog has had a seizure and see what instructions they want to give you.  Normally the dog will not have another seizure in the same day.  If for some reason he does, have the owner come and get him as quick as possible.  It is okay to finish grooming the dog after he becomes alert again if the owner approves it.  It is hard for you to hold a large dog that is having a seizure.  Sometimes you can wrap a towel over him and hold him on the floor to comfort him, but be careful.  A large dog may bite, but it is uncommon for this to happen during a seizure.  Always be careful in any situation with a dog as he may react differently from the norm.  It will be somewhat scary for you the first time a dog in your care has a seizure.  Just remember to stay calm and comfort the dog.  The seizure will not last long.  It helps to ask the Client when you are filling out the dog’s information card if the dog has any medical problems or injuries.  This information will let you know where the problem areas are, and it will let the client know you are a professional and you care about their pet.

12) AGGRESSIVE DOGS
Some dogs have been bred to have aggressive tendencies and some have been made to be aggressive.  When you receive a dog who shows signs of serious aggression it is better to send him home.  A dog that is growling, snarling and trying to bite is a definite sign of serious aggression. Any time a dog is showing his teeth (most of the time) he is warning you that he will bite.  If you can muzzle him without getting bitten, you should be able to safely groom him, unless he continues to resists by trying to claw off the muzzle.  You may have to send him home if you feel you or the dog may be injured.   A dog that has a very severe aggression problem may need to be sedated by the veterinarian.  The client will have to take him to the veterinarian to have this done or take the dog to the vet and let them groom him.  Let the client know the groom will have to be simple due to this problem.  Groomers usually charge extra for certain type of behavior problems.  Aggressive dogs have been made that way or they have become aggressive for some reason or another.  No matter the reason, you still have to be careful.  Do not groom any dog if you feel there is danger.  Normally this type of behavioral problem cannot be fixed.  Sometimes it can be made manageable, but you do need to be careful.  Always be safe first.
Please contract Mitzi for more information.

Thank you all! 
Sincerely,
Mitzi Parrish
info@goldenpaws.com
www.goldenpaws.com

 

Pet Behavioral Problems & Solutions Part 3

By Mitzi Parrish

Hi Everyone!
Sorry about the delay. I have been so busy and you know how time fly’s……..

Last time we addressed 4 & 5 out of the 12 Behavioral Problems and Solutions; the Cage Biter and First Time Groom. In this series we will address 6, 7 & 8; Previous Bad Grooming Experience, Teased & Taunted, and Fear

Check out www.goldenpaws.com for all the rest of the chapter descriptions and available DVD’s. Golden Paws now gives you the power of choice whether you attend one of our nationwide schools or want to learn from our Long Distance Learning Program! Even if you are a professional pet stylist, you can learn to improve your styling skills.

This Sample Chapter is just a small part of this truly informative book along with DVD’s to learn great styling skills.

Sample Behavioral Problems & Solutions

There are different types of behavioral problems you may encounter when you are grooming the dogs. The information in this section will explain the problems, the reasons why, and what to do when a problem occurs.  You will need to determine what the reason may be behind the bad behavior before you can try to correct the problem. 

The main reason for most behavior problems is broken trust.  You have to gain the dog’s trust and sometimes you will not be able to do that.  It will depend on the dog.  If you cannot find a reason for the pet’s resistance, then it may be the pet has learned that being somewhat dramatic at home gets the results he wants and he is now trying it with you.  If this is the case you will have to establish your Alpha position and maintain it with the pet.  If the pet continues to resist you in a strong manner, then you may have to call the owner and see if there might be another reason for his behavior other than the ones listed. 

6) PREVIOUS BAD GROOMING EXPERIENCE
Some dogs may have had a bad grooming experience for various reasons.  Dogs are like small children, and a bad experience can cause an imprint within them.  When a dog has had a bad experience he will react to the experience, not necessarily the person.  For example, if someone has cut his toenails too short in the past he will react when you start to cut his nails because he has the imprint of being hurt before.  A bad grooming experience can teach the dog he cannot trust his groomer.  Some dogs will get over this bad experience with time and the right groomer.  The main damage here is the broken trust.  The dog will have to overcome this damage and he will have to learn to trust again.  It is the same for a dog that has been mishandled or one that has had an unavoidable accident.  This is also why it is so important for the dog to have a good experience on their first groom.  Some dogs have been ruined for future grooms because of a traumatic first groom.  Any bad experience that happens to any dog during their grooming session can affect them for future grooms.  Sometimes over time they may get over their broken trust if the experience was not too traumatic.  Normally, really bad experiences cannot be improved and the only alternatives will be either the Client having to have the veterinarian sedate the dog or you will have to send the dog home.  Do not ever administer any medication to a client’s dog.  Only a veterinarian can do this.  When you do groom a dog that has been sedated, you have about two hours to groom the dog before he becomes alert.  You need to schedule the dog so you can groom him all the way through quickly.  You have to watch him closely when he is being bathed.  No water can go into his nose or mouth, or a dog can drown when he is under sedation.  Explain to your client that the groom will have to be simple under these conditions.  These solutions are for extreme cases where the dog is forcibly resisting and the behavior is endangering the dog, you, or both of you.  Situations like this are sad when you know all of this could have been avoided if the dog had not had a bad experience.  Just remember safety first for you and the dog.  In cases like this it is not the fault of the dog, you, or the Client, so it is OK to have compassion for all involved.

7) TEASED & TAUNTED
Some adults (and children) think it is fun to play rough with a dog in a teasing and taunting manner.  They are not aware of the dog’s feelings and they are not able to see the dog is not enjoying this type of playing.  Dogs love their owners and they want to please them, but they have feelings and they can be hurt physically when someone plays too rough with them.  Extra loud noises, holding them roughly against their will , hitting or throwing them around, pulling their hair and ears, chasing them in a scary manner, all of these things scare them and they do not understand this type of treatment.  This behavior instills fear in them and they can become timid, scared, or aggressive.  Children have to be taught how to respect the dog’s feelings so they will know when the dog wants to play and when he does not.  Also, they need to know when playing gets too rough it can be hurtful to the dog.  The dog also has to be trained so he will know to not be rough with the child.  Parents need to realize the child and the dog need to have respectful boundaries with each other so both of them can enjoy their relationship.  If an adult or a child restricts the dog by pulling his ears, tail, or legs the dog will have an imprint of this experience.  Then when you exercise one of the control holds while trying to groom him, the dog will fight and try to resist you.  He knows being held against his will is scary and something bad can happen to him.  Because of this imprint he will try to defend himself the best he can to avoid this from happening.  This may be one of the reasons the dog is reacting to you.  You can try to get him to cooperate with you as much as possible without exercising the control methods (which rarely works), or you will have to use the control methods and get assistance if necessary.  Make sure the dog is not resisting to the point where he puts himself in danger. Again, it is better to send the dog home if it is a situation where he could be injured.  

8) FEAR
A scared dog is different from a shy dog, and you have to handle them differently.  If you see the dog is scared, you need to comfort and reassure him before you begin the groom. Take a few minutes to talk softly while petting and hugging him.  Do not put your face close to his, you have to remember he is scared and he may bite you.  A fearful dog will bite you quicker than an aggressive dog.  Make your familiar emotional connection with him and then let the love flow to him as you reassure him that everything is all right.  Handle him gently during the groom while reassuring him.  A scared dog does not trust anyone and he will react to any pain, sudden movements or loud noises.  Be careful when taking a scared dog out of the cage.  Some may try to bite you (see cage biters).  If there is a danger of the dog biting you, he will have to be muzzled.  Sometimes this is not possible because the dog is scared and he will try to bite when he sees the muzzle.  You may have to send the dog home if there is any danger to you or the dog.  It is sad to send the dog home because he is scared, but trying to groom a dog that is scared and who does not trust anyone is a dangerous situation.  Sometimes the Client will tranquilize the dog (you do not ever, ever medicate a dog under any circumstances).  That is between a Client and their veterinarian.  Normally, this will make the dog sleepy until you start to groom the dog.  Then he will suddenly become alert.  The only way you can groom a dog with severe behavioral problems is for the Client to have the veterinarian sedate the dog to the point that he is totally out.  Then you will have about two hours before he wakes up.  Be careful when bathing the dog so he does not get any water in his nose or mouth.  Another alternative is to have the Client there during the groom.  You may have to charge an hourly fee for this service as it is a special request (sometimes from the Client).  It will take longer to groom the dog and will require special scheduling on your part.  Do not feel guilty about charging extra as you deserve to be paid for this extra service.  The fee should be your normal hourly fee.  This information is not to scare or discourage you.  It is to let you know how to handle an extreme behavioral problem when it occurs.

Next month we will continue with Puppies and Older Dogs of the “12 Behavioral Problems and Solutions”.

I hope you are having a great summer!

Pet Behavioral Problems & Solutions - Part 2

 By Mitzi Parrish

Hi Everyone!

Last month we addressed the first 3 out 12 Behavioral Problems and Solutions; the Disconnected, Incorrect Handling and the Alpha Dog. In this series we will address the Cage Biter and First Time Groom.
Check out www.goldenpaws.com for all the rest of the chapter descriptions and available DVD’s. Golden Paws now gives you the power of choice whether you attend one of our nationwide schools or want to learn from the best Long Distance Learning Program available! Even if you are a professional pet stylist, you can learn to improve your styling skills. This Sample Chapter is just a small part of this truly informative book along with DVD’s to learn great styling skills.

Sample Behavioral Problems & Solutions, continued from March 10, 2010 post

4) CAGE BITERS
This is a term given to dogs who do not like to come out of the cage.  Sometimes a dog will be shy and scared when he is put in the cage.  The cage becomes his territory and he feels safe as long as he is in the cage.  The problem is when you have to get him out of the cage and then he becomes a “fear biter”.  A fear biter will bite you because they are scared.  Once the dog is out of the cage, usually he will be OK and will become a nice dog again.  You will just have to deal with getting him out of the cage without being bitten.  One way to get them out is to take a leash and loop them around the neck.  Once you have the leash around their neck, pull their head gently to the left by holding the leash tight with your left hand to keep their head away from you (to avoid them biting you) and then take your right hand and wrap it around their body to pick them up in your arms.  Once you have them in your arms they usually settle down (they know you have them in your control).  After you are aware they are cage biters, put the information on their card so next time you will know to put them in a cage with a leash so you can lead or pull them out safely. (Be careful.  You must observe the dog and make sure he won’t pull on the leash and cause injury.)

5) FIRST TIME GROOM
The first groom can be a traumatic experience if the pet is not handled properly (as I explained under the bad grooming experience).  There are two things you have to achieve quickly in the beginning.  First, you will have to establish your Alpha position.  Second, the dog needs to understand you are not going to hurt him with the noisy clippers.  He has to get used to the feeling and the noise of the clipper so he can calm down and relax for his grooming.  There is not an easy way to accomplish this feat.

As always you need to see and understand things as a dog sees them.  His owner leaves him in a strange place with strange people.  This makes him somewhat apprehensive to begin with.  A stranger puts him in a cage and then comes to get him out of the cage.  He is put on a table and then a noisy clipper comes at him.  The dog will feel afraid, and this fear will overtake him.  Now you can understand why the dog is strongly resisting you.  He thinks he is fighting for his life.  The dog is not going to submit to your Alpha position.  At this point, he is more afraid of the clippers than you.  The easiest, safest and quickest way to get the first timers over their fear is to approach their face area first.

The dog’s most vulnerable area is their head and neck and he knows it.  You would think that it would be best to leave this area until last and do the other parts first so he would get used to the clippers and being groomed.  Wrong!  If you leave the head until last he will resist on every part of the groom, he has now figured out his life is not in danger and he is somewhat braver now. When you do get to the head he will try to resist you harder than if you had started there first.  The dog’s head is the main battle area to get the dog over his fear quickly and to establish the Alpha position at the same time.  The dog needs to know you are not going to hurt him and the quicker he knows it the better it is for him and you.  There is not an easy way to accomplish this, but the quickest and the most effective way is to make sure you have him in a secure control position.

The “Last Resort” control position may end up being the safest position and the one that he cannot break away from (usually you can control young puppies yourself, but with older dogs you may need assistance).  After you make sure the hold is secure, get ready for the battle.  The dog will strongly resist and try to break free from your hold.  Hold his head securely and talk to him in a loving and soothing manner (he will hear you even though he is scared and resisting).  Turn on the clipper and use the side of the clipper (not the blade area) to rub all over his face and head (like you are petting him with it) and continue to do this until he settles down.

The first part of this method will make him react strongly, but as soon as he realizes you a re not going to hurt him he will settle down some.  This is the same method you will have to use whether you do the head first or leave it to the last.  The dog has to relax and submit before you can safely groom him.  Using this method will let the dog know you are bigger and stronger. But at some point he will realize you are not going to hurt him.  It also establishes your position as the Alpha dog.

This technique instills respect, not fear, in the dog.  This message is clear and has meaning for the dog.  It is one he can understand and accept since it is the way dogs communicate.  Most of the time when you do the head first the dog will submit without too much (if any) resistance on the other parts of his body.  One of the reasons for this is he is so thankful you did not hurt him on the head, anything else you do is mild compared to his head experience.  Also, he is still getting over the shock of realizing he is OK.  Try to think what it would be like if you had just gone through this traumatic experience.  All of a sudden, when you thought you were being attacked (with the noisy clippers); you realized you were all right.  It would take you awhile to clear your thoughts.

I know this does not sound like the best method for the first time grooms but I assure you it is, for you and the dog. In all of my years of grooming I have found this to be the quickest and the safest method for the dog’s first time groom, and it helps to prepare him for his future grooms, too.  The dog will return with a good imprint.  He was not hurt, the fear was removed and he acquired respect for the Alpha groomer who groomed him.  The dog will come in for his grooming without fear.  He understands that he is not going to be hurt and that he has to submit and behave.  It is good for him and you.  Now you can safely groom him and both of you can enjoy the groom.

Well I hate to leave it at this. I will continue this subject next month in “Behavioral Problems & Solutions Part 3”

Until then take care and enjoy!
Sincerely,
Mitzi

Pet Behavioral Problems & Solutions - Part 1

By Mitzi Parrish

Hi Everyone!

This is just a sample chapter of the “New Golden Paws Complete Guide to Dog Grooming”. A new innovative book proven successful for close to 4 decades of teaching pet styling. Check out www.goldenpaws.com for all the rest of the chapter descriptions and available DVD’s. Golden Paws now gives you the power of choice whether you attend one of our nationwide schools or want to learn from the best Long Distance Learning Program available! Even if you are a professional pet stylist, you can learn to improve your styling skills.

This Sample Chapter is just a small part of this truly informative book along with DVD’s to learn great styling skills.

Sample Behavioral Problems & Solutions

There are different types of behavioral problems you may encounter when you are grooming the dogs. The information in this section will explain the problems, the reasons why, and what to do when a problem occurs.  You will need to determine what the reason may be behind the bad behavior before you can try to correct the problem. 

The main reason for most behavior problems is broken trust.  You have to gain the dog’s trust and sometimes you will not be able to do that.  It will depend on the dog.  If you cannot find a reason for the pet’s resistance, then it may be the pet has learned that being somewhat dramatic at home gets the results he wants and he is now trying it with you.  If this is the case you will have to establish your Alpha position and maintain it with the pet.  If the pet continues to resist you in a strong manner, then you may have to call the owner and see if there might be another reason for his behavior other than the ones listed.  There are 12 situations listed and the proper handling for these situations will follow.

DISCONNECTED

INCORRECT HANDLING POSITION

ALPHA DOG
TEASED AND TAUNTED
FEAR
PUPPIES
CAGE BITER
OLDER DOGS
FIRST TIME GROOM
MEDICAL PROBLEMS
PREVIOUS BAD GROOMING EXPERIENCE
AGGRESSIVE DOGS 

 
Most dogs will behave like little angels.  They want to please you as long as they clearly understand what you want them to do.  There will be some behavioral problems you may encounter with the dogs for various reasons.  Listed below are some of the reasons dogs may misbehave.

1) DISCONNECTED
The dog does respond to your emotions.  It is important to stay connected to the dog by being emotionally aware of his feelings at all times during his grooming.  If you become distracted or preoccupied to the point where there is no emotional connection to him, he will sense the connection has been broken.  He will begin to feel confused and insecure because he is not getting a clear message of what to do.  Then he will begin to misbehave or resist you in some manner.  You can talk and do other things as long as you continue to stay aware of him.  You have to keep this emotional link between the two of you to keep the constant communication so you can continue to anticipate his feelings and he yours.  It is your responsibility to open up this type of communication with the dog by making the emotional contact with him on a personal level.  You can do this by tapping into the love feelings of your pet and then by attaching that emotion to him and treating him as your personal pet.  Maintain that awareness by staying aware and connected to him.

2) INCORRECT HANDLING
The program’s handling techniques are safe.  When you use them correctly most dogs will not resist them.  Sometimes a dog may have a painful condition or his weight and size can cause him to resist you.  In this case, you may have to modify the control position or you may not be able to use some of them.  After checking to make sure you are exercising the control positions correctly and the dog is not in pain, if he is still resisting you may need assistance.  If none of these suggestions have worked and you feel you cannot safely groom the dog or that particular part then you may have to leave the part un-groomed or send the dog home.  Make sure there is a true problem because some dogs are great actors and they know how to act to get you to stop, but most of the time if they are “acting” they will act up on other parts too.

3) ALPHA DOG 
This is a case when your position as an Alpha dog is being challenged by another true Alpha dog.  A true Alpha dog will cooperate with you to a point.  He will decide what he is willing to let you do.  As long as he is cooperating with you, go ahead and groom any and all parts he will let you do.  In cases where the Alpha dog is showing signs of aggression (even after being muzzled), it is better not to force the issue.  Because of his behavior you may be able to groom only what you can instead of grooming the way you would like to. A true Alpha dog will not give up and it is not worth the fight when it endangers the dog or you.  When a true Alpha dog is challenged by another Alpha dog they will fight until one is unable to fight anymore. This is not what you want to do and you do not need to put yourself or the dog through this type of experience.  Remember, you became a groomer to enjoy it and to make the dog beautiful. A true Alpha dog is to be respected just like you need to be respected. With both of you respecting each other’s position, there will be boundaries for both of you and these boundaries do not need to be challenged by either of you.  If they are the dog can get aggressive and even if you muzzle him he can injure himself if he fights too hard and overexerts himself.  Always put safety first for you and the dog.  It is OK to send the dog home before a bad experience can happen.  Not all Alpha dogs will enforce their positions.  Most Alpha dogs are highly intelligent and will understand they need to cooperate with you.  Also, they understand you are not there to challenge their position unless they challenge yours.  Alpha dogs are to be respected for their position and their intelligence, and they are usually sweet and loving dogs.

Well I hate to leave it at this. I will continue this subject next month in “Behavioral Problems & Solutions Part 2”

Until then take care and enjoy!
Sincerely,
Mitzi

The Crazy World of Setting Your Cooming Prices - Part 2

In last month’s article we talked about how to take the fear out of raising prices on grooming. This month is all about the logical side of price setting.

 

The Logical side is all about figuring out all your expenses and adding into that your salary or what you want to go home with on an annual basis.

 

A good accountant can help you with this if you are not good with numbers or don’t feel you can take a hard look at your business as a business. You must take all emotion out of the equation if you are to run a successful business and look at the facts. The facts are that everything has gone up and businesses need to raise prices to stay in business. Have you noticed even food at the grocery store has gone up. So let’s get started:

 1. List all your expenses monthly and yearly. Do a spread sheet for every month of the year. Include rent, electricity, water, cam taxes, phone, and business cell phone.

Operating Expenses such as: Office supplies, shampoo, towels, maintenance, employee wages, employee taxes, advertising costs, anything that costs you to run your business no matter how small.

Take your expenses and salary and divide by 53 weeks then divide by 5 or 6 days (days you are open) and you will find out how many dogs you need to do daily or on a monthly basis.

 

For Example:  

You can see there is a lot of play in those #’s that is not counting baths or extra services. This is only an example and just to help you get an understanding about setting the pricing.
To get your average dog price ÷ the # of grooms into your monthly groom income total. To get your average bath price ÷ the # of baths into your monthly bath income total. Keep accurate records on a spread sheet daily, weekly and monthly.

 

2. Figure out how long it takes to groom an average dog, a medium dog and a large dog (this should be reasonable times). All your extra services such as de-matting or de-shedding, etc. should be based on your hourly rate you come to that will cover all your expenses and salary. Your clients do not have to know your rate to cover these expenses but you can give them an approximate cost based on what you know you need to make per hour. For example if your hourly fee comes to $60.00 an hour and a client wants a ½ hour of de-shedding the extra charge would be $30.00. Some areas are more expensive to live in than others and fees are going to reflect that.

People will balk whether it’s a $1.00 or $5.00; remember it’s all in your presentation to them. Never apologize for a price increase but be polite, they know everything is going up and will realize if you are going to provide quality service and be able to stay open you need to raise your prices accordingly. We have put a note on the door and at the front desk 3 months prior to the date of the new price increase saying:

“Price Increase Beginning March 30th Due to rising costs in all areas. Our accountant has informed us in order to stay in business and provide quality products and keep our highly trained staff and provide the best service we will have to raise our prices by $----- per pet. While we understand our clients are also faced with rising costs and greatly sympathize, we love grooming your pet and want to continue to do so. We thank you for your understanding. If you have any questions please talk to ---------- and we would be glad to make suggestions for your pets style that could offset some charges. Thank you again for your understanding.”

Sincerely,
-------------------   Salon Phone # ------------------    Cell Phone # -----------------

I hope this article helps you!

 

Merry Christmas to you & your families!
Mitzi Parrish, NCMG

The Crazy World of Setting Your Grooming Prices! - Part 1

“The Crazy World of Setting your Groom Price!
Are you getting paid for what you are worth?”

Part I

Pricing your grooming services can be one of the most frustrating, confusing and yes, for some people very scary. I will tell you this, in most of my years in the business most groomers or salon owners are not getting enough for their services. There is a very logical way to determine your pricing and we will get into how that is done in detail in Part II.

First I want to mention in order to get top prices:
1. You need to have a professional, service orientated attitude. That means you have to convey a positive attitude and be able to have the knowledge to solve client issues with their pets.

2. You need to be able to have the styling skills to groom the pets to a high quality level and to the client’s request.

3. You need to be able to groom the pet at this high quality level as quickly and efficiently as possible without sacrificing quality and have the pet enjoy the experience. There are many time saving tips and techniques in our DVD’s (Due out in Dec.2009). The information will be available at www.goldenpaws.com.

4. You will also need to use quality products and shampoos that will help keep the coat in good condition and help you with the styling process.

5. You need a clean, warm, organized inviting facility.

6. You have to convey confidence in yourself and own the knowledge you have and what you offer is worth the price you charge. With everything you need to know and the skills you have had to develop to be a great stylist and the care you take of the pet, you need to charge for you service! People will pay for it. Let me give you a couple of examples:

Back in the early 80’s in Humble, TX ( Near Houston) there was an oil bust and overnight Houston was in a great recession. There were 3-4 pages of house foreclosures and many lost jobs. It virtually affected everyone. My mother had to raise her grooming prices (as she was planning on) by $5.00 and she never lost a client because of the increase.

At my own salon and pet styling school I noticed the front person and/or another stylist mispriced a dog or the dog wasn’t current on updated pricing so I had to sometimes go up on some as much as $15.00 and I never had a upset client over it. It is always important on how you explain the pricing. They know prices go up on gas, rent, the quality products we use and salaries for the top stylists we have that take wonderful care and style their pets beautifully. They also can understand if we missed an increase that they were getting a savings. It was our mistake but now we have to fix it. You want to keep a pretty close price to breeds so one client doesn’t get with another and wonder why they pay more than the other with the same breed. Of course there will be some differences based on service, extra hand scissoring, nail filing, teeth brushing, spa treatment, etc. The client always needs to know what they are paying for and anything that takes extra time you have to charge because that time is not available to groom more dogs. This is a time service business and you need to be paid appropriately for your time.

This is a huge subject. In Part II “The Crazy World of Setting your Groom Pricing!” we will get into more detail about how to take emotion out of pricing and take logical and practical steps to setting your pricing.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!
Mitzi Parrish

Receiving Pets & Getting Correct Grooming Instructions from Your Clients

Always greet the pets and the clients with a smile, enthusiasm and show that they are appreciated. Develop a relationship with your clients and this will keep them loyal. You can do this by greeting their pet by name first and then greeting their owner by name. Even if you don’t know their names you should pull all appointment cards or the appointment sheet before you open and even if they are new you should already have the basic information. Ex. Name of client, Phone #, Name of dog, Breed of dog and arrival time that way you can pretty much guess correctly their names and greet them warmly. By addressing their pet first assures the owner that you really care about their family member and are happy to see them.

If you have a computerized system and a new client: write out the info on some form of ticket that will go with the pet on his or her cage so there will be no mix up on haircuts, time outs, etc.

If the client has been there before ask if they would like the same bath/haircut as they had before and repeat the instructions to the client to make sure you and the client know that they are the correct. A lot of times the client will wish to change the instructions especially in the Spring and Fall seasons to a shorter or longer haircut. Make sure they were happy with the last grooming and if they would like anything changed. Ex. Ears trimmed Shorter or Longer, Tail length.

When greeting the pet first it is a good time to pet them and talk to them but just be careful and keep your face away from the pets face. They are protective and brave with their owners. Be aware but don’t let it be obvious to the client.

By greeting the pet first you are accomplishing 4 things:
 1) Making the client feel good about how you feel about their family member

2) Gives you the chance to feel them for any matting or tangles, behind their ears, legs, hindquarters, chest, face and tail. If the pet is matted or tangled and it requires more than 10-15 minutes brush out inform the client about the matting and estimate the extra charge (usually you would estimate the charge to cover the time you would be able to groom another pet) You may meet resistance, ask them if they bathe their pet at home, if they do this is a good time to explain how important it is to brush and comb the pet before the bath. Be kind and considerate. Always give the client 3 choices:

a) You can brush out the pet with an extra charge. If you can safely brush out the pet, sometimes the matting will be too bad as to be unsafe and or painful for the pet or unable to de-mat. You Never Harm the Pet!

b) You can use a blade to go underneath the matting but always explain to the client how short the area will be (use you look book or a spot on the pet to show the shortness Ex. top of the dogs muzzle if it is short haired) so they will have a clear understanding. You may want to have the client sign a release form informing the client that you are extremely careful but there can be a chance of nicking the pet where the mats are close to the skin.

c) You can show the client how to brush and comb check (always good to have some extra brushes and combs on hand to sell to the client) and they can brush them out at home and bring the pet back for grooming.

It is always better to give them the choice.

3)  You can notice any lumps, bumps and or moles that will need to be noted for the groomer (safety) and let the client know if they are not aware of them.

4) You can also look at the coat and offer any special treatment that will usually be a add on charge. For ex. desheding, oatmeal or any special spa treatment you offer.

If you haven’t already educated your client on oral hygiene (see Oxyfresh Handout) flip back the lips gently and show the client the tarter build up and let them know by working together you can help solve the issue (if severe it may require a base cleaning by a Veterinarian but if you have them use the Oxyfresh Oral Solution for 3 weeks before their base cleaning it will soften up the tarter and make the cleaning an easier process on the pet.

There are many information fact sheets on oral hygiene you can print out to educate yourself and your clients. Go to www.goldenpaws.com and click on Pet Professionals that will take you to the Oxyfresh site. You can also view the Business Tips on the Golden Paws Program Review DVD. If you choose another product just make sure it actually works so you can sell it with confidence. You are making a healthy difference for the pet and solving bad breath issues for the client. Good oral hygiene will add 3-4 years to the life of the pet and create more comfort. You can also go to www.goldenpaws.com and click on Resources and then click on Radio Show Archives for my discussions on Add On Services. Always be honest with your clients. By being honest they will sense your sincerity and professionalism. You are there to solve their issues and help the pet look its best and in doing so you will be rewarded by a loyal client and the extra services can really add up at the end of the month. You need to make use of multiple streams of revenue and add on services because it is a great way to solve client issues, keep their pet beautiful, healthier and you become the professional they are loyal to and will refer other people to you!

For New Clients and Receiving Pets:

Keep complete information on customer card:

• Information on the client: Last Name, First Name, Address (inc. zip Code), Hm Phone, Cell Phone, and or Wk Phone(always have 2 numbers to reach your client).
• Information on their Pet: Pets Name, Sex, Color and or Distinguishing Marks (helps with knowing who is who), Age, any Special Needs or Health Concerns.
• Confirm Contact number and what that number is. (Wk, Hm, and or Cell)
• Write down what time pet arrived. (round to the closest time-8:00,8:15,8:30,8:45) this also helps to know that by the afternoon that the earliest to arrive should either be finished or in the process of being finished. Call the client as soon as the pet is finished.
•Always ask the client if they need their pet out at any certain time- If they need their pet out early and you have a lot that already needs to be out early make sure you can accommodate their request if not just explain to the client you are very sorry but already have so many that need to be out at that time and ask the client to please specify next time when calling for an appointment if they need an early out time. (You should ask at the tome when the appointment is made)
•Double check if Bath or Haircut.
•Get ALL grooming information! Start with body- Ask the client how much length they want left. Make them show you! Never accept a vague answer! Remember your inch is not always what the client thinks is an inch! If the client just wants a neaten up all over make sure they understand when you “just neaten” it means you are barely taking anything off and it is still considered a haircut and will be a haircut charge. To make sure you get the right length hold the hair between your fingers whether it is the body, face, and or tail and ask if they want that much off. They will either say shorter or longer and you can move your fingers up or down. This almost always guarantees you will cut the hair to the desired length! Always ask if the client wants any length off ears and or tail never clip them without asking. Always ask the client if they would prefer the eyelashes and or whiskers lefts on the face.

The most important thing is to develop a system so the pets safety is always #1 and there is no misunderstandings on the pets grooming. You need to be able to communicate with your client, be professional and show you care for their pet.

Happy Grooming!

Sincerely,
Mitzi Parrish

Marketing for Success, Pt. 2

Marketing for Success
“Taking the mystery out of Marketing”
Part II

In last month’s article Marketing for Success, what it is and why it is so important to a salon or a school was discussed. In this article specific examples will be given for a successful marketing campaign.

Remember the name of the game on a successful marketing campaign is to get your business name and what you can offer your clients out to a target audience that is effective and within your budget.

1) Target your audience (or prospective clients): Who are they, what do they need or want, demographics, women, men age group.  You can do that by looking at your existing clientele or if it is a new business for example a school or kennel, there are experts, trade magazines or petgroomer.com that has loads of information you can research to find your target audience. Why is it so important to find the demographics? They are your target audience and are looking for your product or service and are more likely to buy from you.

Once you determine that audience it’s time to create a marketing plan. This is a general plan and will have to be tweaked or changed a bit for your specific business or location but the principles still will apply.

2) Make a list of all avenues of marketing: Write down everything you can think of then refine the list to what you think would (a) reach your target audience and (b) rank in order of your marketing budget. You don’t need to do everything at one time. You always need to know if a particular market piece worked and how well as discussed in the prior article.

For example:

Press releases-This one I love! Free press is the Holy Grail of Marketing. Golden Paws has been in numerous articles including a 3 page Sunday Lifestyle Section. It has also been on morning talk shows and numerous news programs. You always look for an angle the reporter thinks his/her viewers/readers would want to see or learn about. We have a great business for this….. Pets!

One time right before Christmas we had 70 dogs to groom and I called a TV station (we are the 4th largest market) and said you need to come and get pictures of all the puppies getting all spiffed up for Santa and they came and of course I didn’t fail to mention the pet grooming school also.

To write a successful Press Release-Find a specific (local) writer/newsperson. Mention the article they wrote/or you saw and what you liked about it. It doesn’t have to be pet related. The Lifestyle or Business Section are both good places to look. Tell them how their viewers/readers would be interested in learning……… It has to be something of human interest. Also mention the visuals of the pets (who can resist pets or kids pictures?).  Include some basic facts pet owners, % of pet owners and money spent on pets. Stats can be found on Petgroomer.com. Be sure to give credit to where you got the information. Include some pictures of well lit cute pictures of the dogs. Include your contact information and try not to go over one page long. Mail the information to the reporter-email them also-follow up and be excited-get them excited! Always remember you have to have them see the value of the story for their readers/viewers!

3. Direct Mail: These companies are all listed in your yellow pages and can get you into any demographics you want.  I don’t know how they get their information but it is incredibly detailed. Again, if you go this route test a small market and see what the response is. Always include a well lit visual aid of you and a dog or two being warm, list what makes you special, create a sense of urgency and a call to action for example: “Call for a Career Pak Today” (if you had a school) that goes with all marketing pieces. 

 a) Warm visual dog pictures catch people’s attention (dogs catch peoples attention)
 b) Info on how you can solve their problems-they don’t want to hear what you do-they want to know what you can do for them!
 c) Some call for action
 d) Sense of urgency Ex. Call today for Free Info Pak on ………., Limited time only. Words that spark someone into action. Make the message and picture the largest. Your business name isn’t the most important. Look at articles that catch your attention and see how they are laid out.

4. Local Ads: The same as Direct Mail in message and content only you have a much smaller space. You really need to research ad space. Sometimes a paper will offer certain sections on a certain day for a better rate. You really need to know the distribution –Look in the paper over weeks and see who constantly advertises and where. I have ads work and not work. Advertise during high season when you know they are buying your type of service. Low season is the low season and your ad is not going to get the results you want because people aren’t buying for a reason. Ex. August, September (back to school)

5. GET A WEBSITE! These days you have to be found on the web. Use tons of pictures- friendly faces and loving pets. Go to someone you trust. Web people can do a lot of damage and charge a lot for a product that’s not very good. This is where I have really been taken over the years. I learned a big lesson. You have to do your homework. Look at other people’s websites- What do you like and what do you not like. Create a lay out and create your own, there are many website hosting companies that are a one stop shop for domain names, web hosting and website design.

Find out about website optimization (this is a method to increase your site on the web pages when someone is doing a search).Again be careful there are a lot out of companies that do this and will promise the moon and not deliver.
O.k. Web Hosting, Search Optimization and Design can be a whole topic on its own and I have gone way over space for this article. 

I hope this article has helped to encourage you to look into a successful marketing campaign and test each market piece for success. I judge success if the return paid for the marketing piece.

We will be in Chicago at the All American Grooming Show in August come by and see us at the Golden Paws Booth.

Thanks and look forward to seeing you!
Sincerely,
Mitzi