Grooming Smarter

Size Matters

Got your attention didn’t I?

 
You wouldn’t dream of grooming a Standard Poodle with a pair or 5 or 6 inch shears, yet many people will not hesitate to use the same equipment they use on very large dogs on every dog that comes into the salon.

In the past few years the increase in tiny dogs, or pocket dogs as many call them, has led to many groomers seeking out tools to work on them with. My shop seems to specialize in small dogs that are under ten pounds, so it is important for me to have the proper equipment to make the job as easy as it can be.

Unfortunately, many of our manufacturers do not take into consideration the small dogs we are seeing in today’s grooming salons. They are still making the same equipment they made years ago despite the fact that the size of our pets is shrinking. Since small dogs are so small, they use less shampoo and conditioner. They also take less time to bathe and dry, thus using less water and electricity than a large dog. They take less time in general to groom than dogs three times their size, yet are harder to groom because of their size.

You must charge for your time that it will take to groom these perpetual puppies, and explain to the client that their pet is a special pet and takes specialized equipment. I have found that while owners think that their pet is so small it will be easy to groom, when I explain that it takes a while BECAUSE they are small and that it requires tools I wouldn’t have to have otherwise, they understand and are willing to pay for the work we do.

Some pieces of equipment that I feel are critical to grooming the under ten pound dog are listed below.

 

• Small trimmers like the Zipper, Arco mini or Bravmini.

• Small shears, both straight and curved, under 6 inches.

• Cordless trimmer, like the Bravura or the Speed, for bodywork.

• Snapon combs for the trimmer of your choice.

• Small, fine tooth comb.

• Small, soft slicker brushes, like the Les Pooches single brushes.

• Small tables.

• Nail clippers for humans, as well as small pliers type nail trimmers.

• Variable speed dryers are helpful for the smaller breeds.

 
The reason for small trimmers is easily understood. They are smaller blades, in many cases under an inch wide, and in the case of the Laube Zipper, three blades that range from about ¼ of an inch to an inch wide. Because they are so small and cordless they are perfect for tiny dogs and puppies.

 

I prefer cordless clipper on small dogs too because they are easier to maneuver around the small parts of the dog and there is no cord to get in my way. The snap on combs that come with them or are available to fit them make it possible for me to groom them in plush, stuffed toy looking trims that their families love.

I love my LesPooches comb, but many of the puppies I groom are smaller than the comb!  
I have an Aarronco handled comb that fits their small bodies perfectly. Flea combs also work well on these guys. Many of the mini breeds I see are Poodle or Maltese mixes and as a result tend to have super soft hair that requires a fine tooth comb to get all the hair separated. A good comb is essential for these types of coat.

                                                                                                                                                     Many small slickers are available, including the single sized LP brushes. I prefer softer slickers on the smaller dogs because their skin tends to be more sensitive, and as a result I have to be careful. I have the Gold and Silver LP that I use on most every dog we do.

 

 

If you have room, a small, high table will be an invaluable tool in your salon. The puppies can move all over the regular sized tables we use daily, but a small table will make them be more still, and the more still they stand the better off you are. A small Lazy Susan table that sits on your table will serve the same purpose and are available in most supply catalogs.

 

I use regular human toenail clippers on many of the small dogs we do. Even a two year old dog under 3 pounds can be too small for a regular nail trimmer that I would use in the shop on a routine basis. Dremels are also hard to use on the tinies I groom daily, so I use a nail file that is made for artificial nails. Those work well and are quiet enough the small dogs don’t freak out.

For drying the little bitty dogs, a variable speed HV dryer is 
invaluable and a hand held dryer is also a great idea. I found a hair dryer with a brush and comb attachment that makes drying the little ones very easy.

Handling the little guys is hard as well, and many times I end up holding the dog to do things like toenails and even drying or brushing out a dog. It is really hard to get a three or four pound dog to stay on the table in many cases so I hold them in my arms and work on them that way. I have an entire set of equipment, right down to high end hair dresser shears for the little guys I groom (4.5 and 5 inch Kenchiis) and I cannot imagine grooming them with the larger tools like I used to have to do.

If you have the right tools, in the right size, small dogs are not scary. They are profitable. By becoming adept at grooming the small dogs you can make more money in less time because they use less consumables and result in more money per pound in many cases than the larger dogs.

If you can groom them, they will come!

 

 

 

Keeping Dogs Dry...

Some times we have dogs that just love to drool. They can be a huge challenge to keep dry until their owners get to the shop. This is Lexie and left in a cage, even with her buddy, she will be wet to her toes without some creative intervention by us.

One way to solve the problem is to have the ownrs come back right away and pick up the dogs after they are finished, but that doesn't always work. 

A simple solution is to hang a small fan on the cage to keep the faces and feet dry even if the pet drools. Many times a box fan will top the pet from drooling as well for some reason I cannot figure out.

Use it on low and secure it with a short grooming loop fed through the handle and VIOLA! Dry dogs that only need a quick brush out before handing them off to mom and dad!

 

If you like, you can use a clip on desk fan or even the fans made for carriers, but I find that a box fan on low does a great job, and box fans are inexpensive, easily available and very quiet.

Hope this saves you some stress, time and aggrevation!

Stop the Heated Dryer Madness!

I get emails from people around the country quite often about their pets who have been injured, and I always try to assist them in whatever way I can. Sometimes it is a simple accident, like a quicked nail, or a small irritation and I can calm them down and help them feel like it was really not a big deal and they are happy when they fully understand the problem. 

Then there are the rare exceptions, thank goodness, that contact me because of a major, horrific accident, like I detailed in Chloe’s story .

One such person is Bailey’s mom.

I have reprinted her first email to me with her permission and her name withheld. She did give me approval to list her area of Canada. I was shocked to say the least and wanted to share this with all of you and maybe help educate someone in the dangers of heated dryers and in what to do if you suspect a burn. Bailey, below, was burned at the grooming shop by a heated cage dryer 2 weeks ago. She is still dealing with major medical complications. Here is her Mom's email. 

 Oh My Debi,

 I just was fwd'ed your story about poor Chloe's story at the groomer.  We have just experienced almost the same incident here in Prince George, BC , Canada.

 Our dog Bailey, a coc-a-poo, went to the groomers on Aug 24, 2010 when I picked her up at 2:15, the groomer told me that there was a little incident and that she got a small burn....when I looked at her stomach, the whole belly area and the inside of her legs were black and purple. The groomer stated that the dog had a poop in the kennel and as such was sitting at the front of the kennel, obviously too close to the dryer and got burned. The groomer stated that she was in the kennel for about 15 minutes and was alerted to her situation when Bailey was panting really hard. 

 When I picked her up, I noticed that her burn was already oozing in a couple of places, and luckily I proceeded directly to our vet, where she was put on antibiotics and a few days later on pain medication as well. She has not had to be hospitalized up to this point, but we as a family are providing a lot of care for her and really having to work at making sure she is fed and hydrated, as her drive to eat and drink is not there.

 I am attaching a few pictures. Do you know if there are Canadian journals, magazines etc that I can get in touch with to share my story so the word gets out there? Here in BC there does not seem to be any regulations around grooming facilities. I just do not want this to happen to another dog. The groomer that we dealt with refuses to look at the pictures, we have offered a few times and she has declined. She is not wanting to take responsibility and learn from this unfortunate incident. We are very, very upset with the situation and how the groomer is handling it.

 Sincerely,

(name removed)

Prince George, BC Canada

 I find it absolutely repugnant that a groomer who KNEW the dog was injured failed to seek medical attention for that dog. I really find it horrible that the dryer industry continuously ignores the problem and continues to make dryer that get hot enough to cause this damage. Follow up emails have stated the groomer will not look at the photos and admits no fault in the case. 

Remember the quote from above that reads: "The groomer stated that the dog had a poop in the kennel and as such was sitting at the front of the kennel, obviously too close to the dryer and got burned. The groomer stated that she was in the kennel for about 15 minutes and was alerted to her situation when Bailey was panting really hard". If the dog was indeed left with feces in the kennel it was not acceptable. If you have a dog have an accident clean it up! If the dog was indeed in the kennel for only 15 minutes then that dryer must have been extremely close and extremely HOT to do that kind of damage. 

If this happens in your shop, you are obligated to seek medical attention and to pay medical bills regarding the situation. PERIOD. If you are using heated dryers hanging on kennels, you need to be extremely careful in how hot they are, how long you leave them in place and what type of cage bottoms you have. I have said it before and it bears repeating. NEVER use them on metal pans!  Never use them in covered or solid sided cages, and never use them on high. Those things help make them safer. They are not, however, safe 100% in any case. there are several articles in this blog that discuss how to use them safely.

 Here are the pictures I have so far.

 WARNING! GRAPHIC!

the picture above was taken immediately after she got home, and immediately after seeing the vet.

 

In my opinion, this groomer is negligent and should be dealt with accordingly, if for no other reason that she failed to seek immediate medical attention for a condition that was noticeable at pick up. 

I feel the dryer companies are negligent in that they continue to make dryers capable of this type of injury despite numerous burns occuring every year.

We have to do something to stop this madness! Banning cage dryers is not an option nor do I think it is a good idea, but I do think that dryers with safety switches, mandatory ten minute timers, and heat regulators that prevent them from putting out that much heat in the first place are all valid ideas that the industry has so far ignored. 

How many more dogs have to suffer like Chloe and Bailey before this stops? Please do your part and make sure that IF you are using a heated cage dryer make sure you understand how it works and be safe about it! In my opinion, a cage dryer should have no heating element. I know not everyone agrees with me, but there is truly no reason for using a heated dryer on a dog in a cage. This is one of the things lacking in our industry. Safety controls on the manufacture of our equipment! Add to that we lack EDUCATION on how to use the equipment safely and correctly.

Until groomers start accepting responsibility for accidents and using equipment safely and in a way that makes sense, these types of accidents will continue to happen. Sadly there is no way to explain to a parent or a pet that is injured or one that has died as a result of groomer negligence, that nothing is being done to stop it from happening again. I am doing everything I can to spread the word. PLEASE spread the word yourself to everyone you know.

 

Getting the wrinkles out!

 

I have several tools at my disposal to straighten curly hair and I use every one of them to my advantage. 

First of all drying a dog with curly or frizzy hair is critical to making it lay flat when done. Always go the way the hair lays and if you use a force dryer try to always direct the airflow downward to make the hair lay flat. I also have a straightening dryer with a removable comb, actually designed for men with short hair and a flat iron comb called a pressing comb that I use routinely. Using a comb or flat iron to straighten coat actually seals the cuticle and helps the coat not only lay flatter but stay in better condition than one that is not ironed. When the cuticles are sealed using heated tools they do not snag on each other causing tangles or breakage.

 

I also tend to do hot oil or deep conditioning treatments on this type of coat. To use any of your favorite conditioners as a hot oil treatment you simply heat up water and conditioner together in the microwave until the conditioner is totally dissolved, then add enough cooler water to make the temperature tolerable for the dog. Apply, let sit for 5 minutes then rinse and style as needed. This also reduces the need for sprays during straightening and allows the coat to grow with less damage. If you decide not to use a conditioner, then a spray of some sort is needed to help protect the hair from heat damage. Any conditioner in water or a leave in conditioning spray will do the trick.

 

After bathing you can see how curly Lucy truly is. She is a Shih-tzu Bichon mix and the coat is crazy. Mom refuses to let me trim it shorter and she has been long all her life. Nearly 5 years now. 

 

I dry this coat using a force dryer without a concentrator directing the flow of the air downward as much as possible and a hand held dryer while brushing with my Chris Christensen T Brush. Sometimes I use the hair dryer in the photo above, but today I chose to do it another way. I videoed the drying and edited out the dryer noise, so you can see how I did it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzWwFbtFFwQ

After drying she needs to be straightened using the flat iron comb. There are two video clips regarding this tool. I have audio in them so I explain how I did what I did and how the tool works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yy4FGMOwLg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfFxSdk7czU

I use the pressing comb on ears, backs, eyebrows and any other part of a dogs coat I want to be flatter and straighter. If you are working around a sensitive area or do not have a tool with a guard you can put a plastic comb against the skin and then use the comb over it. That will prevent the heat from transferring to the skin. It also works with a regular flat iron to keep the skin safe. 

The model I use in the shop is no longer available, but there are others out there. This lava Tech is a good one and not that expensive: http://store.goldenmartbeautysupply.com/lateprcestco.html

If you use common sense and be careful, tools like this can be helpful in the salon to amke you stand out from the rest of the shops around you. I hope this post has been helpful.

Deshedding “Big Hairies” Made Easy

OK I admit it! I hardly ever do the “Big Hairies” anymore. I just can’t do it. Huskies are not common in my area (unless they are shaved down), Australian Shepards are generally shaved as well. Golden Retrievers basically have very little coat in this area and the other Nordic breeds are rare due to
our heat. The vast majority of my clientele is small, fluffy mixed breeds or Shih-Tzu types, and most are white. I don’t know why.
 
Anyway, I do have one large (80 pound) Husky that I have been doing for a long time. He is not nice, and he will hurt you if you are not careful. His Dad is even scared of him and will not push him when he starts growling or nipping. He means it. When he is done he is done. If he doesn't get fully brushed, he
goes home with undercoat still in him.
 
Nakai is not groomed often enough. I groomed him December 21,2009 then again today. His Dad does an OK job of keeping up with the brushing, so he is never that bad really.
 
He intimidated my staff today and not one of them would touch him. My bather said “He’s ALL YOURS!” and my assistant weighs about the same as the dog so it was not something I would ask her to do. In my shop, I groom the bad or difficult dogs. Nakai is one of the ones labeled “Debi ONLY”.
  
I remember thinking, “today is the day he goes home finished” when he came in today. See, he usually doesn’t get fully brushed out and NEVER gets his feet trimmed, his britches tightened, and you can forget a comb! It usually doesn’t happen.
 
I remember reading in passing several times about how if you blow out a dog with heavy undercoat before rinsing the hair will just fly out. I never really thought much about it, but apparently I filed it away to bring it out today. I know that using conditioner on matted dogs helps remove the mats easily
and painlessly and using the recirculating bather makes it easier to apply the conditioner, so I guess I should have known this made sense. I just don’t do this type of dog, or for that matter, bathe my own dogs that often, so I never tried it.
 
Generally my technique would be to bathe the dog, blow them out and apply dematting sprays then dry some more, pull out the dog and brush the mats and undercoat out. I will hurt for days, which is one reason I don't groom these guys. They take too long for the money I can make in my town and they hurt
my body as well.
 
So, I get started on him since I have to bathe him myself. I pulled out my recirculator and bathed him with Double K Grimenator shampoo. He was really clean to begin with, so I was able to get him bathed in about 10 minutes. My tub is not set up for this machine, and it takes about 5 gallons of water to make
the system work well. That is why we use the Prima system generally, reserving the recirculator for really dirty dogs and large hairy ones.
 
I decided to use my favorite conditioner in the recirculator, as you have all suggested, and used 2 ounces in my water then ran it over him for 5 minutes. The conditioner I used is Stazko and is not available any longer, but any good dematting conditioner, like Best Shot or whatever you like best, will work just as well. While I was running the conditioner over him, I was using my fingers to comb through the coat. I noticed that the thick undercoat was falling out in my hands, in big chunks. HMMMMM
“Maybe these guys are onto something” I thought.
 
My bather was in awe, saying over and over again, “WOW!”
 
When I was done applying the conditioner to the dogs coat the tub was so full of hair the pump was not running really well. There was a lot of hair on the bottom of the pump, but since I was done, it was no big deal. I then pulled out the K9III and my concentrator nozzle and went to work blowing out the undercoat WITHOUT rinsing the dog. The hair was flying. The tub surround was catching most
of the hair, helping eliminate the mess that usually happens with these dogs as well.
 
Then, using an Oster Metal Poodle Comb I was able to start combing through the thicker areas while I worked with the force dryer. I handed the dryer to my bather and he did that part while I held the dog and combed. His tail, which was one big mat (he hates it touched by anyone), was dematted and
deshedded in less than 3 minutes. I was smiling and almost doing a happy dance. I had him hooked up to the furthest eyebolt in my tub and just held on and let him pitch a fit. He couldn’t get to me so his singing and pulling was fine. Funny, the whole neighborhood probably thought he was dying, but the tail and the rear britches got totally brushed out and he gave up fighting shortly after we started.
 
Now, you may be thinking, “When is she going to rinse the conditioner off the dog?” The answer is: I didn’t. Using that small of an amount of conditioner in the water (5 Gallons in my tub), applied to the dogs coat, doesn’t really deposit a lot of conditioner onto the coat, only a small amount of the two
ounces is actually in the coat. The rest is in the water, draining out with the water. It is no different than using a spray on detangler, which I did not have to do having used it in the water with the recirculator. nWith the small amount deposited I was amazed it worked so well!
 
After he was blown out pretty well I put him in a cage with my Sahara Dryer blowing on him for about an hour. Took him out, put him on my table using two arms, a Groomer’s Helper and rear and front loops. All I had to do was run a brush across him, comb through and then scissor pads, feet, underline, britches
and call his dad.
 
All said, not counting cage time, he took me 10 minutes to wash and rinse (the recirculator makes rinsing a breeze!), 5 minutes to condition, about 20 minutes of HV dryer work and then 10 minutes on the table for finish work. 45 minutes total of hands on work that would have taken me normally 90 minutes to do. I cut my time in half and I am not worn out or hurting in any way and neither is Nakai.
 
I was thrilled to death with the results and cannot wait for the next heavily undercoated dog to come in to try this on again. The only thing is, it will likely be a Pomeranian. They are really the only undercoated dogs I see routinely. It will be fun to see how much time we can shave off of my favorite Pomeranian, Ginger’s, bi-weekly groom doing her this way.
 
I thank each and every one of you who recommended this technique and am glad to share it with anyone who had never heard of it before. I wish I had paid closer attention when I heard this back when I was grooming this type of dog more frequently. It might help me accept this type of dogs more often. But I
doubt it.

Volunteers Needed for “Scientific” Dryer Test

I want to do some tests on the effects of cage dryers on cage temperature but I do not own a heated cage dryer and it would be terribly cost prohibitive to buy one of each model just for these tests. As a result I am asking for volunteers to help me with this survey.

Those interested must have one or more cage dryers with heating elements OR a stand dryer with heating elements, a digital camera and several different types of cages. We are including vari-kennels, stainless steel, fiberglass and composite cages and wire crates. You do not need to have all of the above types of cages; it is just a sampling of what I am looking for. Box dryer users are welcome as well.

I will supply a checklist of what tests to run, a thermometer with a remote sensor for your use (so that we are all getting the same results), a Humidity reader (built into the thermometer), timer and email support should you have any problems or questions.

The tests will take less than 30 minutes to perfom under normal circumstances.

I would like to see 25-50 respondents so we get a good idea of what the results truly are. I believe many will be shocked at what we find out.

I will tell you that yesterday my first test floored me with its heat buildup. I used a human hair dryer on high in a cage bank unit 18hx24dx18w in a room that was 70F. In 1 minute it was to 80F, 2 minutes, 90F and 5 minutes, 105. When I covered the front of the kennel with a towel it went over 120 in less than a minute. That was as high as my thermometer went. I ran the same test this morning with the dryer on low and got very similar readings with less air making me think that the difference in the settings is really the air flow not the temperature.

If you are interested in participating, please email me at particentral@aol.comand put Dryer test in the subject line. Please tell me what type of dryer you have, manufacturer and model number and what type of cages you have to test on. I will get back to you to let you know when we will get started.

Thanks for the interest!

Four Principles of Effective Drying

For efficient drying of anything that is wet, you need four things.

• Extraction
• Air Flow Volume
• Dehumidification
• Controlled Heat

By understanding how these principals affect drying you can make your drying process faster and safer while saving yourself money on utility bills as well. I found a lot of really good research has been done on the topic by several manufacturers of water damage restoration equipment. If you think about it, drying a carpet or floor out uses the same types of equipment we use in drying dogs and to be honest, carpets and dog coats are similar in that they are all fibrous and when wet hold a lot of water that must be removed safely without damaged those fibers. By reading about how they train their people to do the work of water removal I learned a lot about drying that can be transferred over to dogs.

Let's begin with Extraction. Simply speaking that is the physical removal of water. In dog grooming that is the most important part of drying and it accomplished by two major steps of the drying process; towel drying and force drying. Proper extraction of the water can reduce your drying time drastically.

Towel drying is a critical part of the drying process for most dogs. There are many types of towels you can use. Regular bath towels, microfiber towels, moisture magnets or chamois and Water Absorbers are all available and effective. No matter which towel you choose to use, there are key steps to drying efficiently with a towel. Begin by squeezing excess water out of the coat with your hands while still in the tub. Then, using a squeezing motion again, absorb as much water as you can with your towel. Change towels as they get wet to maximize this step in the process.

From the tub, after drying I place dogs onto the drying table which in my case, has a flannel covering on it with two or three towels underneath it. This helps in the extraction process by absorbing the water from the feet, and the water that is going to be removed from the coat in the next step of the process. If you have a short coated dog, you can ruffle the hair while toweling but in longer coats it is a bad idea as it may tangle the coat.

Some people use towel warmers or towels right out of the dryer to dry dogs with. This does in fact speed up the drying process and it allows the towels to absorb more water. A warm towel makes you and the puppies more comfortable, so if possible, use one that is warmed up. Many places offer towel warmers for sale at a reasonable price. Simply search on the web and you will find ones available in many places, but make sure they will hold and heat the size of towels you are using. Some designed for human hair salons are designed to heat smaller towels.

If you are using something other than towels to dry, then a warmer is not an option. The Moisture magnet s and Absorber type towels work better when they are wet to begin with. Simply wring them out and they are ready to go back to work again.

Towel health tip: NEVER re-use towels from one dog to another. Always use a clean towel on each dog. The same is true of the other types of towels as well. Absorbers can be stored in a Chlorhexidine solution in between dogs and wrung out well, but otherwise, use a fresh towel and wash between uses.

The next step in the extraction process for us is force drying. By using a force dryer to remove water from the coat we can drastically reduce the drying time and as a result get a better finish, as well as getting the pet dryer faster for its own comfort. A good force dryer is essential to any pet groomer in my opinion. Most of them do not have added heat but pull air across the motors to cool the motor, so the air coming out of the nozzle is warm, generally 30-50 degrees above room temperature when it exits the hose. Once it comes out into the air, the temperature is drastically reduced. So while it feels hot in the hose the temperature at which it contacts the pets is much lower. Some dryers do not pull air across the motors. As a result you are getting room temperature air that uses force to dry dogs. You might, after a prolonged period of use, find that the air warms up slightly, but it does not get as hot as one that does. You must decided for yourself what you need in a dryer then choose one accordingly. 

All of these dryers are great for removing large quantities of water, and which one you choose will depend largely on what types of dogs you groom and what your personal preference is. I like warmer air, so I chose my dryers accordingly. I find that I get a better fluff with heat, and that the dogs dry a bit faster when using a dryer that contains some heat, and I can explain why that is in the next section, but others feel like the added heat is a detriment and prefer the cooler air dryers. Whatever you choose, make sure you have enough power for the types of dogs you groom. If you do a lot of the big hairies, a larger, more powerful blower is for you. If you do mostly smaller dogs then you can get by with less force. For me, I do a variety of dogs and prefer a variable speed control, so I can adjust the airflow to the job at hand, and my dryers raise the temperature of the air as well for what I feel is a better fluff out.

Whatever type of force dryer you choose however, their principle purpose is water extraction, and they do a great job of it.

 

Air Flow is the second key point in drying dog coats. Air flow is critical to drying dogs because it allows for evaporation of water left over after and even assists DURING the extraction process. The more air that passes through a coat the faster the evaporation process will be. If you think about it, clothes hung on a clothesline on a day with no wind dry slower and stiffer than clothes hung out on days with lots of wind. The wind, through air flow evaporation techniques, dries the clothes faster and the fibers are moved by the wind as well preventing them from getting "stuck" together, and they are softer. The same principal applies to dog hair believe it or not. The more air flow you can get through the coat while it's drying, the better the coat will feel and the faster it will dry.

When choosing the right dryer, consider how fast the airflow is. If it is just a small amount of air, then the drying will be less efficient. Remember, air flow promotes evaporation. Air that is stagnant cannot do that.

Ambient air dryers are the best at moving large amounts of air. Box Fans, stand fans, vortex dryers, and carpet dryers, like the Sahara by Dri-Eaz are all great at drying dogs fast and safely. I k now some people think that a fan is only blowing cold air across a dog so it cannot dry well, but remember, we already extracted water from the coat and are now looking at air flow to remove the remaining dampness. The faster the airflow, the faster the dogs will completely dry. The ambient air dryers pull air across the motors to cool them, so the room air temperature can be raised dramatically by these dryers, even though they do not put out heat directly, so it is important to keep an eye on the temperature in the room. When used with open cages, like wire crates, these are by far the fastest and safest dryers available.

Cage selection is critical as well to the drying process. Closed cages like cage banks, or vari-kennels restrict airflow. Wire cages allow the air to move past and through the area, making them much more efficient. You can even use fans to direct the air in the direction you want to the coat to lay. Place one on top of a cage for a full coated dog, and underneath for fluffier coats. There is no end to their versatility.

If used correctly this drying technique (large volume air flow) offers you versatility, safety and speed.

Dehumidification is critical to drying dogs fast and easily. When you are removing the water from the coat it is going into the air. That water in the air must be removed to maintain the balance in the room. The more humid the air gets the harder it is to dry dogs in it. That makes sense as it is also true of carpets, laundry and even mud puddles. The drier the air, the faster they dry out. It is one reason carpet cleaners tell you to run your air conditioner after they clean your carpet. It is to reduce the relative humidity in your home. I run a secondary window air conditioner in my drying rooms to keep the humidity level and the temperature under control without making the rest of the shop cold. You can use a dehumidifier if you are in a colder climate and there are many to choose from. Dri-Eaz makes a great one that they sell to the pet industry but there are many to choose from.

Dry air also reduces the chance of heat stroke, because heat plus humidity are what usually lead to that occurring.

Temperature is the final step in the process. Warm air is thirstier than cool air. Warm air increases the rate of evaporation. As a result, in cooler climates, it may be necessary to use a heated dryer at some point to raise the temperature of the air that is being passed over the dog. This can happen by using a stand dryer, a warm air high velocity dryer or a cage dryer. Typically, most dehumidification equipment works best at temperatures between 70 and 90 so it is important that the area pets are being dried at not exceed or fall below those temperatures. That range is also a safe, comfortable temperature for most people and pets. Anything hotter results in high humidity and anything cooler results in lower evaporation rates. Mobile groomers can attest to the fact that when it's colder or hotter their drying times increase.

Since the optimum temperature seems to be relatively low I am at a loss to understand why dryer manufacturers make dryers that heat up to 155F. You can see how the relatively low airflow they offer coupled with the high heat in an enclosed area like a small cage can be devastating to the pet and unproductive for the groomer. The best drying scenario for groomers is high velocity removal of water from a well towel dried dog, at a temperature of 70-90F and a low relative humidity, using high volumes of air for evaporation.

If you follow the basic principles you will have a productive, efficient and safe drying program.

What are cage dryers?

Since my recent post on Chloe's horrible burn I have been deluged with mail saying how cage dryers and the technique should be banned. We all need to slow down and take a deep breath.

All cage dryers are not dangerous or bad for dogs. the problems with death or serious injury occur when heated dryers that get too hot for my comfort are used. There are cage dryers that are safe to use and they definately have their place in the grooming world. Without them, many pets would go home wet from grooming shops, or would be stressed from being forced to endure something they do not want to do, and that would mean they were not fully groomed. Banning their use would also significantly raise the prices owners are required to pay to have their dogs groomed because there would be more hands on time required on the larger dogs. the result would also mean less income for groomers, and in some cases more injuries.

Cats for example, in many cases, would be unbathable if we could not se cage dryers in some way. When a cat has had enough, it will HURT whoever or whatever is keeping it from escaping.

There are many different kinds of cage dryers. Many are perfectly safe and will never injure a pet. Others, well, they can and do injure and even kill dogs and cats. We need to learn the safe ways to use cage dryers to be as efficient and as safe as possible.

Let's start with heated cage dryers. Heated cage dryers typically hang on the front of the cage or sit on the floor in front of the cage. When used properly (and we will get to HOW to use them properly in my next post) they are valuable and effective. When used incorrectly they can be deadly.

_{This dryer by Double K is one of the better cage dryers available. the temperature is the lowest posted on www.petEdge.com of all the cage dryers with the temperatures listed.}

Then you have box dryers. Box dryers are generally speaking, a cabinet with enclosed sides and glassed fronts that have heated air blowing through them to dry the dogs. Usually there is a grate on the bottom of the cage to raise the dog and allow for better airflow. They are highly effective, efficient and, when used correctly, safe. They have airflow and thermostatic controls as well as timers.

_{This photo was provided by Daryl Conner to use with permission. Note how comfortable the dogs are and the added thermostat on the front of the dryer for added safety.}

Last but definately not least we have ambiant air dryers, also called "high velocity fans" or "Natural AirVolume Movers". These dryers contain no heating elements and work much like the wind on clothes hanging on a clothesline; they use the ambiant air temperature and moving air to dry dogs. You can see more on this type of drying including a list of products available at  http://www.drieaz-pets.com . Many groomers have become creative in the ways they utilize commonly available fans to dry dogs, including myself. Box fans, high velocity fans, stand mounted fans and floor mounted fans work great to move large quantities of air at room temperature for those dogs who cannot be dried fully by hand.

 

_{The photos above are from my drying area. We only use ambiant air dryers and fans when cage drying and only use it for slightly damp dogs, like Ginger, who have been mostly dried with our Force Dryer and are unhappy about having their ears or faces done, or large dogs that have too much hair for us to dry completely by hand.} 
  

I will cover how to use dryers safely next time, but this gives you an overview of the different types of dryers available for use in the industry.

Chloe's Story

This is Chloe’s story as reported to me. It is sad and I have to warn you, it is disturbing in so many ways it may make you totally rethink the way you operate your drying facility. It has me asking questions that I cannot answer about dryers in general. 

 

To begin with, on Sunday, January 31, 2010 I was checking my email when I saw a subject that made me do a double take. It read “Chloe, horribly burned at groomers”. Let’s just say that got my attention FAST. I opened it and was horrified at what I saw and read. Over the remainder of the afternoon I exchanged several more emails with the person who found my blog when researching burns on pets. After the incident, a friend of the family (the person who emailed me the story) came over and took photos for them and is assisting the family in dealing with this. She asked me to write the story and inform groomers of the incident, as she has decided this should never happen to another dog. I agree 100% that it should never happen again, but I also feel like it should never have happened in the first place.

 

I am confident that this injury is legitimate and I am confident it didn’t have to happen. 

 

WARNING!!!  The photos below are GRAPHIC and are used with permission.

 

One day last week, Chloe, a rather small yorkie, was dropped off at a grooming salon that she usually goes to with no problem. Everything went according to plan as far as the owner knew. They picked up Chloe and she was groomed but she had a horrible odor they couldn't pinpoint. When they got home, they realized she was limping slightly, but she took off upstairs and ran under the bed before they could investigate further. A relative came by and went to retrieve her from under the bed and she yelped like something hurt. Upon further inspection they discovered an area of red dots that looked like pimples on her chest. She was not acting really sick, so they watched her. The spot got larger and weepy as time went on, and she got lethargic and refused food and water. At this point the family felt they needed to go to their vet. He was in surgery but advised they not wait and take her to the Emergency clinic.

 

She was diagnosed with a thermal burn. Here is the photo of the injury, a couple of days after the grooming. 

 

 

 

The only thing Chloe had done that day that would have caused this type of injury was go to the groomers. 

 

What at a grooming shop could cause such a burn to occur you might ask? Simple: a heated cage dryer or a stand dryer that has heat being used as a cage dryer. These dryers have temperatures that reach up to 155 F according to the manufacturers and since that heat is enough to do severe damage to skin with short contact time, imagine what prolonged contact can do. Can you imagine being in a closed box with that type of heat being blown on your skin? I can't and I cannot understand why groomers still use this type of dryer!

 

The groomer was shown the photos by the family friend and was visibly shaken. They had no idea there was a problem with the groom. The thing to note is that according to my contact, the grooming, drying and bathing are all done in the same room at the shop in question. They do use heated cage dryers and it is believed that this is what caused the injury to Chloe. According to the shop owner Chloe never made a sound or acted like she was uncomfortable. 

 

I have a hard time believing that a dog would not make an effort to try to get away from a heat source that is burning their skin. You would imagine that at least as the burn was beginning to occur the dog would be whining, scratching or barking. After the burn set in deep in the tissue, pain would be diminished as nerve endings are damaged, but at the beginning, there are signs. Likely the signs were tuned out or ignored as a normal fussy dog. In this case that decision may result in deadly consequences.

 

Chloe is scheduled for her first surgery this week. They had to wait until she was stable to perform the surgery. From my experience with burns, they were likely also waiting for the skin to finish dieing off. She will likely need more surgery, and possibly skin grafts to cover the area damaged by the burn.

 

In Chloe’s case, I FIRMLY believe the burn could have been caused by a hot dryer used on a metal cage. The metal cage bottom gets hot and holds the heat that is being transferred to it from the heat dryer. It never cools off and transfers its heat into the dog’s skin. A yorkie, with thin hair, has no insulation from the heat and the skin damage caused is deep and traumatic. I have seen Vari Kennels melted from the heat of a dryer! Imagine what they can do to skin over time!

 

 I do not believe anyone WANTS to injure a pet, but when equipment is used incorrectly or by people not paying attention, injuries happen. A heated stand dryer (pointed into a cage and used as a cage dryer), or a cage dryer on Medium or High in an enclosed area creates an oven. Cages that are covered, surrounded or enclosed fit that bill. It is an accident waiting to happen.

 

Many groomers do not think that the dryers they are using can cause damage to the skin of the dogs. We need to rethink that position. We need to educate groomers and bathers to the dangers of the dryers we use daily. Unless we KNOW that they can kill, and either never use them or use them extremely carefully, then more dogs will get hurt or die as a result of their use.

 

In the next installment of this series I will discuss the way burns occur and then in the third installment we will discuss ways that heated dryers can be useful when used correctly and alternatives to them that are safer and more effective. I will also have an installment on what cage dryers actually ARE and when they become a problem because many people thing cage dryers are all equal and nothing could be further from the truth! 

 

My goal is to educate as many people as possible to the effects of these dryers in the hopes of another pet never having to go through this.  

Faster Drying is a Piece of FLANNEL!

Get your attention? I am referring to a table cover made out of flannel. Why not use towels you ask? Simple. Terry cloth pulls when dog nails get into the loop and towels tend to slide on the tabletop. By making a simple, sham type cover for your table you can reduce drying time and the noise caused by the high velocity dryer across the table top. 

The reason this will reduce your drying time is two fold. First, it absorbs the water on the feet and in the pads. For obvious reasons, that allows your dog to dry quicker. Secondly, it prevents “blow back” of water from the table top. Water sits on the table top and then flies back up onto the dog without something on the tabletop to stop it.

 

You can use any type of fabric you choose, but I use flannel for several reasons.

• It is highly absorbent
• It is not susceptible to collecting hair which is important in this application
• It comes in many different patterns
• It is extremely affordable
• It holds up well to laundry and wear

To make a cover like this is extremely easy if you have basic sewing skills.

You need to measure your table top, then, cut a piece of fabric one inch longer that the longest table measurement and 14 inches wider than the shortest measurement. Hem all four sides of the fabric, folding the edge over to secure the raw edge.

 

Then, fold over 6 inches of the long edge of the fabric, right sides together and sew them into a sleeve.

If your table has a clamp on the end of the table, this will work perfectly with no difficulty. If your clamp is on the long side of the table, you can either make the cover with the sleeve end on the short side of the table or remove the clamp and replace it daily. The cover will slide a bit more if you make it this way, so I advise against this. You can also, if you are a good seamstress, cut out an open area for the clamp, but it does require more skills to do this.

 

To use this cover, I place two or three towels, folded nicely, on top of the table then put the cover on over it. This makes the towels stay put and keeps the water off the dogs.

 

This is what the cover looks like from the back and from underneath my table when its being used. You can see how it secures itself and cannot slide around.

 

I have also found this to be beneficial if a dog urinates on the table. It will stop it from splashing back up onto the feet and legs. I have been saved many times from this type of problem since we started using these covers including the day I wrote this entry!

If you use this type of cover, you will get reduced drying time on every single dog you do instantly.