Grooming Smarter

They said WHAT???

My son has come to work for me again after leaving a job as a warehouse assistant manager for several years. Yesterday he suggested we do a book on how to communicate with clients. It was such a silly idea I decided to run with it.

Clients are funny! There are certain phrases you will hear repeatedly that bring to mind flashbacks to every other time we hear them. Those are the ones that once you figure out how to interpret will make your life as a groomer SO much easier!

For example, any time a client starts out the conversation with “I have been out of town and my {insert the name of relative here} was supposed to be taking care of him/her for me” expect that the dog has not been bathed, brushed or touched for MONTHS on end and they want you to fix it and make them pretty again.

“He doesn’t like men” means he will lick every man in the shop to death and the women will be his chew toys.

“He might be a little funny about his feet” means DO NOT TOUCH them unless you have a death wish.

“My dog needs a dip” or “He might have a few fleas” usually means get out the flea bombs because this one is going to be an infested mess, like you have never seen before. EXCEPT when it means that there are no fleas at all and there never have been and never will be.

“I brushed her this morning” or “I brush them every day I SWEAR” means the dog has never seen a brush except in your salon and will likely need shaving down.

“My last groomer refuses to do them” generally means that the client is bringing you the best dogs you’ve done in a month.

“I need my dog back as early as possible” is more accurately akin to “prepare to leave 15 minutes late tonight.” Conversely, if the client says “take your time no hurry” you can expect a call in 45 minutes inquiring as to their status because “I was just on this side of town and checking to see”.

On the phone when a customer asks for a price quote, “my Yorkie is about five or six pounds” means to expect a twelve to fifteen pound Yorkie, and you should quote the price accordingly.

“My dog’s nails MIGHT need trimming” can mean one of two things. They are so long a chainsaw will be needed to trim them or they are so short that if you touch them with a clipper they will bleed pre-emptively.

If a person says “My hubby/wife/mother/son/daughter, etc wants him/her cut short” or left long or dyed pink with a Mohawk (YES that really happened!) it is always wise to call the person you usually deal with to verify if the person giving the instructions is NOT the person you usually see. This is critically important if it is someone you have never seen before or if they are a stepson or son in law. Don’t ask me how we know that.

People are FANATICAL about their football! At least here in the south. If a person other than the owner of the dog drops off and requests a particular team, beware! It's a set-up designed to make you look like an idiot in the eyes of the owner who is actually a fan of the requested teams arch rival. You will never live it down!

“My previous groomer would NEVER do to what I wanted” means the client has no idea what they want and expects YOU to figure it out or the other groomer was trying to fire the client.

“I want my dog to look like the dog on the Little Caesar’s dog food ad” means they want a round head. NOW if they have a Westie it will mean that their dog doesn’t have hair enough to do a proper Westie head and has a long nose with huge ears. The good news is that if you come CLOSE they will not see the differences and will be thrilled that you did what they asked.

“My dog is a little bit overweight” means it will take two people to lift them onto the table or into the tub. Usually the owner also falls into the “extra large” category and you feel bad even saying anything to them about their dog’s weight.

“We want it shorter but not shaved” is my favorite thing this time of year. Usually that means cut the down with a 4F or so, but it also can mean that the dog will need to be wetshaved with a ten to get under the mats.

“I can get her at ANY TIME during the day” is usually followed by a gasp and utter disbelief that it will take 4 hours to groom her pooch. My son usually says, “SO I take that anytime is NOT ok for you then?”

"Why did you cut her so short" means you did exactly what I asked you to do, and the same thing you always HAVE done, but then again, so does "You need to go shorter cause it grew out so fast this time!"

Sometimes these clients are so high maintanence that it is not worth keeping them around. It is up to ou how much of it you will put up with. If a client is constantly driving you crazy or demanding more and more special treatment, letting them go on to another place is sometimes a great idea for both you and the client. 

There are many more of these pleasantries I am sure! Send them along to me in comments at the bottom of this article! I will add them to the list! We all need to laugh every now and then!

 

All I want for Christmas is my OWN DOGS BACK!

_O

_{Oh my gosh! They abduct kittens too!}

I was married once a lifetime ago to a wonderful man with whom I had three children. At some point, about 12 years after we were married, he changed so drastically, virtually overnight that I always said aliens came down and abducted the man I married and replaced him with this other person. We could not live together and I am actually surprised that we have not killed each other yet.

NOW It is happening with my dogs, and I want MY DOGS BACK! 

Case in point: Minnie, the Chinese Crested mix we have used to be content to go outside and play in the play yard and would stay all day long, pouting when she had to come in. She loved it outside! She also would sleep in her kennel with no issues. Had a blanket and bed she adored and had to be pulled out of in the mornings. Now, as I type this article she is curled up as close to my legs as she can get almost pushing me off the recliner. She refuses to sleep in a kennel anymore and sleeps in the bed pushed against my legs or my husband's back. If you have to put her in a cage for any reason she screams and will get out of most any cage we have tried. Dog forbid you close the bedroom door with her on the opposite side than you are, because she will tear the wall down to get out. I know this because I have had to replace sheetrock in my bedroom and tile as well in front of the door after she got accidentally locked into the bedroom one day.

Aliens are the only explanation. Nothing else makes sense. 

_{Huh! Cows.....who would have thunk it?}

Then, there is Pixie, my rescued maltese who was neglected severely before she came to my house. I have placed her three times and end up getting her back every single time. She always despised people and would rather be with dogs than people. and really enjoyed being dirty. It usually takes three people to get this 4 pound dog groomed. WELL the aliens took her too! They left me with a puppy that shadows my husband, climbs in his lap while he is watching tv and demands to be petted all the time. Ignore her and she will bark and scratch your legs to make you pay her attention. Last weekend she got her monthly bath and I was able to shave her face (her eyes drain horribly) and get her feet and nails done by myself! She is currently curled up in the chair next to my husband and looks perfectly content to be there.

I have also decided that they are stealing client dogs. I have no idea what they are doing with them, but their owners as well as myself would like their dogs back!

_{Watch your dogs! They lure them away and then replace them. This is your proof!}

"Charlie" (name changed to protect the abductee) has been coming every two weeks since he was 12 weeks old. He has always been a great dog to work on! WELL since his abduction, his replacement is a wimp! He fights being bathed, brushed, touched, dried...OK he hates the entire process! His mother says he is becoming "needy" at home and since he hates being brushed she no longer does it. He also is very picky in his food choices now and will not eat if he does not get what he wants. He also refuses to go into the kennel at home. 

We have no idea where he was when he was abducted, but obviously he was!

Then there is "Murphy" and "Lola" (names again changed to protect the abductees) who are almost evil when it comes to touching their feet or trimming their nails. In fact, sometimes nails just don't get done. Mom and dad will tell you that they cannot touch their feet either and that they will bite you if you try. They have always kept them away from their grandchildren as well. They were replaced with some of the nicest, easiest dogs I have ever worked on. Overnight. Last visit before today they were unfinishable. Today they were perfect. Turns out that the grandchildren were allowed to play with the dogs for the first time ever last weekend!

To be honest, we do not mind this type of abduction and replacement. We truly enjoy those in fact. We do wish there were more of them!

Some of my clients were replaced as well. Clients who never tip have been replaced with ones who tip large amounts routinely and ones that were high maintenance are now so easy going it is not really possible to understand. Ones who did not care are now extremely picky! 

I again will say the only explanation is aliens. I have no clue where they came from or why they are doing this. I just know that sometimes they do good things and other times they really mess things up. I feel for the aliens that have the bad dogs at this time. I feel sorry for us that have the bad dogs now as well. Maybe they ARE dogs! Alien dogs or cats for that matter! That makes much more sense now that I think about it. 

I know that aliens most likely did not abduct any of the people or dogs in my life, I just have no other explanation for the changes in their personalities. It is puzzling to me that overnight a dog (or person) can change from nice to mean, or vice versa, or independent to totally dependent.

I need to know how this is possible.

So I blame aliens. That's my story and I am sticking to it! 

 

PS. Its been a long month, and this is my way of relaxing. I hope you enjoyed this article, as it is your Christmas Present from me! Merry Christmas Everyone!

The Customer is ALWAYS Right?

I have heard for my entire life the old adage "The customer is always right". I have to say that when I first started out in grooming I felt like they were and would bend over backwards to accommodate them, gave away grooms when people complained, stayed as late as I had to for them and came in early when asked. 

I think, however, as I have gotten older and a bit more wise, I have learned that more often than not, "The customer is right PART of the time" makes more sense.

Don't get me wrong! I love my clients (most of them anyway) and am appreciative for their business. They are what feeds me and keeps my household running. They are what allows me to care for my pack as well as indulge my grandchildren. Without them I could not feed my shoe habit either! 

I will not let a client walk all over me. Not in the slightest. If they do they are corrected or fired. 

Clients that do not know what they want, clients that get upset when you shave their pelted dog and proclaim "He wasn't matted!" even as they look at the pelt you saved to show them, clients that are unreasonable in their demands. These are the people that I say are right only SOMETIMES.

I had a client that up until recently I had put up with the nonsense from. I like her dog, who is a small, thin coated Yorkie with a simple, FFTT and trim the legs a bit, groom. Mom however was one that knew everything (she is a nurse you know and her husband is a doctor) and even though she would ask questions and we would offer answers, she always rebuffed everything we said and her way was the right way. She changes grooms with the way the wind is blowing, and she thinks nothing of going elsewhere with her dog and then bringing her to us to fix.

The morning that she got fired, or quit depending on your point of view, she came in with her dog who really didn't need anything done to her and then proceeded to say "well you know what to do" and "The girl who works here said it was a puppy cut" over and over, while gripping the dog tightly in her arms, refusing to give her to me or anyone else until we established the haircut she wanted.We then decided that all she wanted was for to be tidied up and we settled on a pick up time. She said on her way out the door "I wish I had brought the picture of what I wanted" and I replied that it would help if she had. She left. Finally. The 3 clients waiting behind her were aggravated and so was I.

We bathe and dry the pup and she is placed in a cage in the main room until it is her turn to be finished. I look up and see her car in the parking lot and her dog sees it as wel and is getting upset. She comes to the door, opens it wide enough to stick her head in and starts mouthing words. Now I have a dog on my table that will not stay for me to go into the other room, so I said "I can't hear you" and she says in a real voice, "Is my dog in here" to which I replied, "Yes that is her barking". "I didn't want to upset her, but I wanted to bring this picture". My bather had come out of the other room, so I said "Kayser, can you get that picture from her and ut it on my desk so I can look at it when I get a chance?" She gave it to him and left, repeating she was trying not to upset her dog. 

She got to her car and we are all just dumbfounded looking at each other like, REALLY did this just happen? when she came back in demanding her dog because WE upset her and she couldn't leave her with us. She then said, as I was explaining that I was sorry for her pup being upset but she would calm down once she was gone, she said to me "WELL You didn't have to be such an Effing Bit##" and I was stunned. She then took her dog and said again, "You are ALWAYS an Effing Bit##". 

I was always as polite to her as I could be, trying to explain that I needed more information than she was offering and I DID tell her that we don't use the term p uppy cut at all, but I was nice about it. When she returned, she caused her dog the stress not me, and we did what she asked. We gave her her dog and photo.

There are some people you cannot make happy regardless of what you do. She is one of them. If we cut her dog the way she asked it was too short or too long, or cost too much.

These types of clients are not right. They are NOT the type of client you wish to see or deal with and the nice thing for me is I don't have to deal with them. I am my own boss. 

Clients who manipulate you into doing something that you do not feel is the right thing to do, clients that lie about things that go wrong, clients that always have a complaint even when the dog was groomed to perfection and to their specifications.....these clients are never right.

A client that swears at or harasses a groomer is never right.

 A client that blames the groomer for their own mistakes or negligence, is never right.

A client that gives instructions which you follow to a T, then says "that is not what I asked for" is never right.

A client that accuses you of not doing something you did or doing something you didn't is never right.

Clients who have little or no respect for you, your time, your other clients or staff are never right.

Clients who belittle the "other groomer" are likely to do it to you and they are never right.

Clients who have no clue what they want and yet get upset when you do "whatever you think is best" are never right. 

Clients that argue with you about things that are not your fault, or policies clearly stated to the client in advance are never right.

Clients who want you to do anything that is dangerous or harmful to their pet are never right.

Clients that want you to adjust your policies or hours "just this once" are never right and will expect you to do it everytime if you ever give in.

There are times in this industry that you have to (or want to) kiss butt and suck up to clients, but when they are belittling you and causing you stress they are not the clients you want. 

I am not saying you should be mean, rude or bitc##y, simply direct. Tell the client that this is not acceptable behavior. You cannot read minds. Your time is important. You need the to follow the rules like everyone else.

If you are firm, stick to your guns and are polite, most will adjust and become good clients. The ones that don't need to go elsewhere. So that they can learn the grass is not always greener, and the groomer is not always nicer.

Life is too short. There are other clients to replace the rude ones. Make your salon a happier place. Remember that the customer is NOT always right! It will make you feel better.

In my next entry I will discuss some tings you can do that will make your customer service skills improve and every client feel special. And right. 

"I suggest a new strategy, Artoo. Let the Wookiee win"

That saying from the Star Wars movie is embedded in our memories (if you are a Star Wars fan anyway) and it is so true in so many ways! In the movie it was a warning that the Wookie was going to get his way or you would be sorry. In real life it is a warning to "Choose your battles wisely". 

I am not one to let a dog get away with a lot of shenanigans on the grooming table. I like a well mannered dog as much as the next person, and I prefer that to fighting with a dog, but I have watched way too many groomers get absolutely frustrated until they are frazzled with dogs trying to make them do something they want the dog to do but the dog is DETERMINED not to do. 

The dog wants to sit instead of stand and the groomer is constantly trying to make the sitter stand up. The dog wants to look towards the opposite side of the table than you want him to. The dog is trying to lay upside down when you brush or trim toenails. We all have these dogs that are aggravating and yet dealing with them is really not all that hard, yet I see experienced groomers fight to deal with them every day. Since time is money, it makes sense to not fight the dogs too much if you can avoid it. The time you spent trying to make the dog do what you wanted, when it is easy enough to work around the behavior, is time wasted. You could just work around what the dog is trying to do and get finished faster, which enables you to get more dogs groomed. It also reduces YOUR stress level as well as that of the dog.

Some of these things are actually easy to work around if you just "let the wookie win". 

What do I mean by that? Do I mean, let the dog do what it wants to regardless of what I need it to do? Of course not! I simply mean that sometimes it is better to work with the dog, not against them. 

If a dog wants to look a different way than you want him to look, move to the other side of the table. Usually in here that works. If your table is towards a wall, pull it out slightly and that will enable you to move around it easier. If you are mobile, then you will have fewer options,but minimizing the view of the dog will generally keep them from looking all over the place as well, so curtains and blinds are a definite plus. If they cannot see the house they don't know which way to look! It is really a lot easier to reposition yourself than to pull and tug and fight a dog that is determined to do things his way.

If a dog wants to constantly sit down, standing him up over and over will wear you out- not to mention frustrate the heck out of you- and make the groom take three or four times as long as it should. Usually a simple loop around the dog's middle is all it takes to keep that dog standing up. I know, it sounds simple, but many of the groomers I have worked with over the years fail to do this simple thing.

A couple of tricks to making the two loops work (especially if the dog is a spinner as well) is to loop one though the latch part of the loop at the swivel point, not to the arm. That way the two loops don't get twisted and tangled up. I use two different lengths of loop as well. A shorter one for the neck and a longer one for the middle.The Groomer's Helper also has a professional set that provides a "no sit" bar as an option. If the dog has a Trachea or Larynx issue, or is really pushing hard on the neck loop, you can move it slightly, placing the loop behind one leg. That takes pressure off the throat and keeps them standing as well. These simple tricks can eliminate a great deal of frustration.

Sometimes however, a dog wants to do what it wants to do. I always try to make it work.

Using two arms, one on either end of the table, makes it even easier for me to keep a dog still and pointing the way I want them to. When the rear and neck loops are in place with two arms the dog cannot move, twist, turn or lay down. this is a perfect solution for me.

If the second loop doesn't work, and the dog is struggling against it or upsetting themselves fighting it, then by all means, let the dog lay down when it is possible! It isn't going to hurt anything to have the dog laying down to have its back worked on, or sit down while working on back, front legs or head. Letting them sit will make the dog more comfortable and the happier they are the easier it is to groom them. Many dogs will even roll over for you to work on the other side. Choosing to allow the dog to be comfortable is key in many cases to a stress free groom for groomer and pet.

     

_{This dog was not going to stand up for love nor money, so we groomed her by rolling her around on the table. She is still this way three years later. Mom said we are the only shop to ever get her groomed.} 

I have dogs that were trained to lay down when being brushed or when having their toenails trimmed. This is a great idea for dogs that are coated or that have leg, back, hip or foot problems. However, if you do not expect the dog to lay down you can be in for a surprise when they will not stand up! I have a pair of Pomeranians that come in here that had an invalid owner who brushed them in her bed on their sides. You will not get them to stand up and the bathers all have to learn to deal with it. It aggravated one of my previous bathers so much that he refused to dry them. This solution is easy! Let them lay down and turn them on their other side when you are finished with the one you are working on. Its usually easy enough to do and actually it is faster to dry and brush out a dog with it on its side, because you can get to its underside easier.

Large dogs that will lay on their side will have less stress on their joints as well. During nail clipping it can be incredibly uncomfortable or even painful for a dog to stand on three legs. If they are overweight or older this pain can make them miserable and cause them to struggle more than they should. Allowing them to sit, and doing the front nails in this position, many times not even lifting the foot off the table , can be a helpful trick. If they will lay down, it's even better! My Wheaten likes to lay down for his nails. Always has. He will literally hang like a trapeze artist if you try to trim them with him standing.

There are other areas as well that letting them win can be beneficial. Drying faces with a force dryer, even on low can be stressful for many dogs. For those dogs I towel dry as much as possible, comb the head and ears the direction I wish it to lay and use a fan to dry their heads the rest of the way. Some of these dogs respond well to a human hair dryer or stand dryer. It is just not worth stressing out a dog to dry them.

Older dogs will sometimes react to the dryers in seizure type activity. they start screaming and seem to lose touch with reality. That is a type of seizure. Those dogs we do not even attempt to dry with a force dryer, we cage dry using a fan. We advise the owners that the dog hates being dried correctly and that the groom quality may suffer, but the dogs health is first and foremost in our minds. I have yet to have an owner fail to understand that.

Ear plucking is another thing that stresses dogs out. That is one reason I do not offer this except in rare occasions. It is simply not worth a dog hating me or hating the grooming process over a little hair. I clipper it out or scissor it out and call it done.

I don't want anyone to think I am a pushover, or that I do not believe in basic grooming manners, because that is not it at all! I expect and teach my dogs to behave in a reasonable manner, but sometimes, a dog wants to do something unexpected or bothersome and you have to decide, am I going to fight this epic battle or "Let the Wookie win"? In many cases the battle is not as important as the war and giving the dog the illusion that they "won" makes the groomer and the dog know they BOTH won. 

 So, go on! Let the Wookie win (sometimes)! And may the force stay strong in all of you! (My son made me put that in!)

 

 

Removing sandspurs from hair

 

These little buggers are horrible when it comes to dog hair! It is important to get them out as quickly as possible because the little burr pieces can and WILL burrow into skin and that can lead to an infection. Both green and brown (dried ones) are dangerous, but the dried ones are more prickly as they tend to be more flexible when green.

  

Many people think you must shave off a coat if it gets burrs in it, but there are several ways to remove them easily and painlessly from the coat.

 

You must protect yourself from injury as well, so in the presence of many sandspurs, I suggest a good pair of leather gardening gloves to keep the burrs out of your skin. One or two is easy, but pets rarely come in with that few. Most of the time, they will be imbedded in the hair first, and the longer they are there, the closer they get to the skin. Also, in long hair, if they stay in place for several days, they can do unrepairable damage to the hair shaft. If that happens, shaving may be the best thing to do, but if caught early on, removal is easy, but time consuming.

There are several ways to remove the burrs easily.

I never work on dirty dogs unless there are sandspurs or cockaburs involved! I would rather work on the dog dirty than wet in this case, and this case ONLY. The water makes the spurs swell, making them tighter in the hair than they were to begin with.

 

Brushes are useless and only manage to push the burrs in further. A wide tooth poodle comb however allows you to work them out easily. This is made even easier by applying a thick, heavy conditioner, like Nature's Specialties Aloe Remo or Kolesteral before combing. This can be done on a dirty dog as long as you are planning on washing afterwards.

I usually use a pair of pliers. YES pliers. Using the pliers to crush the sandspurs will make them easier to remove because it will break the spines of the burrs. When you break the burr up, it will literally fall out of the hair.

 

I use pliers, then add the conditioner, using as much as it takes to work into the coat, comb, and the sandspurs and cockaburs come right out. Always work from the outside of the burrs in towards the skin. If you start at the skin, you will be pulling through more hair and they can actually get more tangled as a result.

NOW if there are hundreds of the little buggers to deal with, then it might be easier on the pet to shave them off. Usually, if there is a place in the yard or walking area the pet frequents that has them growing, they will simply get more if you leave hair, but if the plants have been eradicated, or it was a trip to the lake or beach that caused the problem, removing them is not a waste of time.

I charge as I would for dematting to remove burrs if there are a lot, but if it takes just a few minutes, I don't. I do tell my clients to watch their dog as the little pieces that stick in your skin can cause infection, and they can be itchy as well. I raise roses and I get scratched and pricked all the time and sandspurs are similar to rose thorns in makeup.

 

Beggar's Lice are another type of burr, but thankfully they do not have huge spikes, rather they have many many tiny burs on them that stick to hair, clothes, or virtually anything that rubs against the plant. Almost like a magnet, they are attracted to anything but they love dog hair!

They are actually easy to remove, but many people, including owners, prefer to cut the hair off rather than work them out.

These come out easily with a fine tooth comb. It matters not whether you wash the pet first with these types of burrs, but conditioner helps in the removal. They will stay in place during HV drying and will stay in the coat until you pull them out. I work in the same manner as the bigger burrs, from outside in.

These guys are harder to eliminate in the environment, but at least they are less damaging to skin and coats than sandspurs!

On working dogs, like hunters and planatation guide dogs, I like to leave a little bit of hair, about the length of a 5F blade whenever possible, to allow the skin some protection against burrs while in the field. It is a length that while long enough to prevent injury to the skin, the burrs cannot stick in the coat because it is short. I always try to NOT shave out pads on these guys because that will make the pads more vulnerable to the stickers on the burrs. I know you may think that is counterituitive, but hair will trap the burr and prevent it from getting into the skin that would be present in a shaved pad. Most hunters know to check their dogs feet when they are done in the woods.

Same with ears. A bit of hair left on the inside and outside of the ear makes it hard for damage to occur. A shaved ear and ear canal will allow the burrs to come into close contact and even work their way down into the ear. The hair acts as a buffer and prevents damage in most cases. A good hunter will go over their dog after hunting and remove any burrs found. I work with a lot of hunters and this technique works great for all of them.

Foxtails are another problem, and most people suggest shaving dogs pads and the like to prevent them from entering the dogs skin where they can cause terrible infections, but I have no personal experience with these. This is a good article with pictures for those of you who do have these in your area: Foxtails

While we cannot prevent the little and big burrs from attacking our clients and our personal pets, you now have the skills to remove them easily!

Happy de-sandspurring dogs!

 

 

Dogs and the beach

I am currently sitting poolside at a hotel resort in Clearwater Florida. I know, WHY am I writing this blog from here? Well, it came to me and I decided to put it down while I was thinking about it.

I have numerous clients that take their dogs with them to the beach. Most own beach houses or condos in Florida (we are 4 hours from Panama City Beach) so they take their dogs with them every weekend. Some rent however and take their dogs with them as well. I guess they have pet friendly rentals. We were driving the "strip" in Clearwater last night and I was shocked at how many dogs there were down here! Not only in front of homes that were obviously privately owned, but in the hotels as well. I left my dog at home, but apparently I was the only one that did!

I would not consider bringing my dog with me but many others do, and those who live near the beach have their dogs with them all the time. The restaurant we went to last night had a chow at the bar, and a boxer in the patio eating area, and the bar we ate lunch at today had a Yorkie, Miss Mollie, on the patio deck, and they even provided her with a bowl of water and a small plate to put her bits of food on while she was there - which is good because her mom was dropping food on the floor until they brought the plate.

 

So even though it seems many people do bring their pets with them to the beach, there are definately things youy should consider before deciding to do so.

First of all, make sure you really want to bring your dog with you and that you will have the time to devote to the care of your pup. It can be difficult as you will have to return to your hotel room to walk him/her and if you are on a boat, a beach or any other excursion, that can be hard.

Then, make sure that the condo, rental home or hotel room will allow you to bring the pet with you. If they do allow it, do they have a deposit, and if so how much is it and is it refundable or non refundable? There is nothing worse than getting to a hotel and finding out you cannot have your dog with you if you planned on having them there. It sounds like a no brainer, but not all hotels accept dogs, so it is best to ask in advance.

Fleas are HORRIBLE at the beach in Florida. Make sure that your dog is on preventative that is recently administered. The closer to the trip you can apply or administer the flea prevention the better off you will be. Many of my clients who are 100% flea free at home return from the beach vacations with fleas, but when we tell them to administer the flea preventative closer to the beach time, they have little to no infestation occur.

Sandspurs are also a big big problem in Florida. The dunes are covered in spurs and burrs and they can and do wreak havoc on your pets hair. I prefer to bathe and brush each pet before and after they go on vacation. That way you know they are taking a clean, mat free dog and you can get any burrs and the like out quickly upon return to prevent damage or at least minimalize it, to the dogs coat.

 

Be aware that not all beaches allow dogs onto the sand, and even if they do allow them, you may want to keep your pup off the beaches. The sand gets hot and the dogs feet will not be able to stand that without burning. The asphalt and sidewalks are also really hot during the day in the summers. If you do bring your dog and you cannot carry them, then I suggest boots to prevent the pads and paws from burning. Also, make sure that if you find a pet friendly beach, you clean up after your pet and control them. Nothing could be worse than stepping in poo on the beach or having a dog run all over you while you are sunning yourself!

 

You won't forget the sunscreen for yourself, but did you remember to get it for FLuffy? A dog's skin is sensitive and they can get burned as easily as you do. Provide shade and there are many sprays out there made for dogs that have UV protection. This article talks in depth about the need for doggie sunscreens Sunscreen. If your dog will wear them, Doggles are also a "must" for dogs at the beach. WE wear sunglasses, so should the dogs that go to the beach.

 

Also remember that the air temperature is hot, even if the wind is blowing in the summer and a dog can suffer heatstroke easily. Always keep a bowl of water handy. They make travel bowls and bottle holders with flip down bowls to travel with. It is a good idea to use bottled water when traveling because sometimes dogs, like humans, respond negatively to strange water sources.

 

There are several local places in the high tourist areas of Florida that do daycare for visitors. Each place has it own set of rules, and I suggest you go into each one to see if it is the "right fit" for you before you hire them to take care of your dog. I have looked at several here in Clearwater and I know that a couple of them will not suit my needs. It would be hard to get down here with the dog and find out that you cannot or do not wish, to use a facility you had planned on using because there is just something you didn't do or that you don't feel right about it. Reservations are usually required for visitors so plan ahead.

You can also arrange for a dog walker to visit your hotel room or condo to take care of your pooch if you are going to be out for extended periods of time, just make sure the hotel knows about it. They may even be able to refer you to a good dog walker. Never hurts to ask! Make sure you introduce the dog and the walker in advance and that the pet is in their carrier in the room where the walker will not have to chase them. It is also safer for the pet as housekeeping may have to enter the room and they might get out the door. It happened to a client of mine once, so I never leave my pets out on the floor at all when I stay in a hotel, even with a Do Not Disturb sign in place.

 

Before taking your pup with you to a restaurant or bar, call ahead and ask if it is ok. Many places here in Clearwater have no problems with your pet coming along but you will most likely be seated outside on the patio, so be prepared for that possibility. Not everyone at the bar or restaurant will be happy about your pet so leash them and keep them close to you at all times. If possible, bring your own bowl in case the facility is not as accomodating as The Brown Boxer Bar in Clearwater Beach.

Sand and salt as we all know, are harsh irritants and if your pet goes swimming or running on the beach with you, make sure you wash all the sand and salt off their hair and skin every day. At the very least they should be rinsed off to remove the sand. It would be a good idea to take a brush with you as well to make sure you get the tangles and burrs out of the pets hair. Otherwise you will have a mess when you get home, and a coated dog will have damaged coat to deal with as well.

 

Look in advance for self serve dog washes and dog parks. The self wash will make cleaning up the sand and salt a lot easier than doing it in a hotel room! These are places you will likely want to visit with your pet while on vacation, so knowing where they are in advance will make it easier on you.

 

In most cases it is probably best to leave your pup at home, but the above tips will help you to have a better beach vacation if you just can't leave him at home!

 

Contact Dermatitis

I am not allergic to much. Mold, yes. Some pollens, yes. Perfumes bother me and cigarette smoke sometimes send my into fits. Cats now, that is another thing. I cannot even be in a room with one without my eyes swelling and itching.

In 16 years of grooming I have had an allergic reaction to exactly three dogs. I mean, I broke out in hives, itching, redness, swollen eyes the whole gammit. Two are Sharpeis. I think they are the brushcoat variety, and they make me red, itchy and swollen where the hair touched me. This latest one was a Scottie. Of all dogs to be allergic to it was a scottie! The photo shows how red my throat was 10 minutes after I sprayed a hydrocortisone spray on it. I already had Zyrtec in my system, so I am rather worried it could have gotten much worse if I hadn't taken that in the morning before this happened.

This dog had a greasy spot down the middle of his back that we could not identify and that only got worse the more we tried to remove it. I decided to remove some hair and try another bath. By the time I had made three swipes with a clipper I knew I was in trouble. I scrubbed my arms and neck, then changed jackets and put on my rose gauntlets (gloves that go way up the arm). I was still covered in hives when I went home that night, but with the gloves on and the new smock I was able to get him finished.

I assume it was whatever he had on him that made me
react this way but his mom and dad swore they knew NOTHING of the                greasy patch or what he may have gotten into...um OK then.  

The gloves I had would be ideal for dogs who may have been in something that contaminated their coats or are just ultra dirty. They are Bionic rose gloves and come in many different sizes. they are designed by a hand doctor and work fantastically allowing you to feel everything you are gripping, and as you can see I could hold and use my shears and clippers just fine.

I always keep an extra jacket or smock in the shop for just this type of incident.

Things you can react to on a dogs coat include chemicals they have been in contact with, topical flea medication, poison ivey, oak or sumac, oils or sprays like Skin So Soft and any number of other irritants that the dogs may carry on their coats. Usually working on clean dry coats eliminates the reaction on the groomer's end, but in some cases you cannot eleviate the risk. 

Be prepared should something like this happen to you. Keep antihistamine sprays handy. Keep benedryl onhand. Keep a change of clothes and ALWAYS have some gloves handy.  

Then, if at all possible, find out what the dog had on it that triggered this reaction. In my case I couldn't find out, but if you can, you will know what to avoid in the future.

What NOT to Wear

We all know that you never get a chance to make a first impression twice, and it is also true that impressions you make with clients last forever. A client that walks into a salon and sees the help looking like a ragtag bunch with dirty clothes, holey jeans, scrubs covered in hair, holes in jackets, or pants sagging is going to think to themselve, "Man they could at least try to look professional!" or even, "If they cannot take care if themselves, how can they make my dog pretty?". 

 

Most of the time I am wearing what looks like street clothes when clients come in the door and they are all the time telling me that "shes dirty, dont get your clothes dirty!" to which I laugh and say "this is work clothes so its ok!".

The shirt to the left is one that I made myself out of a satin in a zebra print. The mandarin collar is flattering and protects the neck and chest from hair getting into the skin.

The proper clothing, including long sleeves, are critically important to keeping hair splinters from getting into your skin and possibly getting infected.

I expect my staff to dress appropriatley as well.They don't always do it though.

 

I had these two items of clothing on people that work in my shop this past week and I had to step in and say, "CHANGE please!" Saggy sweat pants and torn jackets do NOT belong in my shop.

I love the idea of uniforms for staff and do not mind supplying jackets and pants if needed. They do not all have to match but they DO need to be clean and maintained. If it rips, tell me and I can fix it or replace it. If its dirty then wash it. Simple? You would think. Not always true though.

I require a grooming jacket or tops that shed hair (I will cover this in a minute) on everyone that works in here, even my husband wears them when bathing dogs. I prefer nylon pants as well, but am OK with jeans provided they are hole free and fit well. NO SAGGING ALLOWED! I do not mind shorts as long as they are a nice length, but tank tops I frown on because they can be considered less than professional, especially on men. I find the guys that work here all like the "skater" shorts and the girls are usually worried about getting scratched so they wear jeans or pants.

I am not a huge fan of zippered smocks because they are boring and bland. They make everyone look big, and never fit well. I tend to buy tops at stroes that have fun clothes. I can find them at Cato, Ross, TJ Maxx, and many more places for under $25 each. I shop by feel. If it is shiny, satiny or silky, chances are it will repel hair. That allows you to have some style and actually feel pretty when you are working.

Aprons are another way to keep regular clothes looking great while you work and the hair to a minimum. Many of the beauty suplly houses sell fancy or more stylish aprons that the grooming providers have. Wimex has many aprons in all colors and many styles. I have four or five in different styles and colors to keep my clothes clean. This apron is another cute style available. I googled "hair stylist aprons" and found a huge selection of unique, stylish things to wear. I do not reccomend the shoes however for every day grooming wear. Might be hard to walk in across a floor with hair on it!

 I love to wear skirts, and can usually wear a simple jersey knit skirt with a top to work in with no problem. When it gets hairy I blow it off with the HV dryer, but there are also aprons you can buy from Wimex Beauty ( Apron )that are skirt cover ups and that works amazingly well. I still feel practical and pretty as well as comfortable. 

 Jeans and scrubs are practical in many ways and no so practical in others. They are comfortable, easy to find and wear well, lasting a long time. They also stay wet, collect hair and hold odors. Nylon or satin does not collect hair, dries incredibly fast and because it dries quickly it doesn't smell either. 

Shoes should be closed toe and non slip. I know that people who work in shops love to wear flip flops and sandals, and so do I, but to keep it safe a proper shoe is critical. Also, a good shoe will make you more comfortable and cause less pain in the feet and legs at the end of a long day grooming. Crocs are great for some people but I cannot wear them. Sneakers are good support but get wet and that's it. I wear Alegria shoes in several styles to work in. they are great and cute to boot! I require my staff to have on good shoes and they can get in trouble if they don't have on shoes that fit the bill.

 Overall, a clean, neat appearance is important if you want to be treated as a professional and be respected by your client base. If you are charging a premium for your services it is CRITICAL that you dress the part of a person that is worthy of that price. Remember that the clients perspective is the most important one, and they WILL judge a book by its cover.

Dress for success and it will find you.

Stand up!

It is much easier to stop bullying behavior in children, because it is in childhood that we learn what is right and what is wrong. Most people who bully as adults were bullies as children, always pushing to get their way, trying to be the best, the most popular, the strongest. If the behavior is not stopped then, it becomes a bigger problem in adulthood. In order to fight back against a bully it is important – no it is CRITICAL – that you stand up for yourself and for those who are being pushed down, stepped on and kicked around.

The longer a bully is allowed to continue with their behavior the more they feel it is accepted and the more they will push the envelope.

It is important that you regain control of the situation you find yourself in. To do that you must recognize that you are indeed being bullied. Once you do that, it can be dealt with.

Never become involved in supporting the behavior you do not think is appropriate. If someone comes to you in person, by email or in a phone call and asks you to assist them with something that would be harmful to another person, or wants you to join in the bad behavior that is going on, tell them in no uncertain terms that you do not condone this type of behavior. STAND UP for the right thing, for the small person, for kindness. Don't let them suck you into their sadness. If you allow them to do that you are not helping anyone and are lowering yourself to their level.

There are some basic steps you can follow to ensure that the behavior is stopped or at the very least does not progress to a dangerous stage.

Become a fact finder. Ask a bully WHY they are doing what they are doing. Is there a reason or are they simply trying to belittle or undermine the other person? If there is truly no legitimate reason for their behavior, then call them on it. Explain that you feel they are just being mean and why you feel that way. Quite often the aggressor cannot see that their behavior is out of line. They are so focused on their "target" that they lose all sense of balance. Pointing it out to them can sometimes help them realize that their behavior is not acceptable, but at the very least you will know you tried.

Listen now, act later. A simple email to the person being targeted can do wonders. Tell them that you know there is a problem and listen to what they want you to do. They may have things under control, but it is nice to know that someone else is "on your side". Let them know you are aware of the problem and will help if needed.

Enlist the help of others. If you are the target, ask for help! Go to a moderator and go to a friend. Ask your friends what they think, and then as a group stand up for what is right. It is important that a bully knows he or she is alone in their behavior. No one likes to be seen as an outcast, and people who bully are not used to it. They are usually popular and well known. The fact is, when they are losing support from their peers they will sometimes (not always) stop their unwanted behavior. You have to tell them it is not acceptable. Otherwise they see your inaction as acceptance and will think that what they are doing is allowed and continue with their behavior.

In some cases you must go over the persons head to a moderator or list owner. They will be able to edit posts, restrict access and discuss why the behavior is not acceptable. If it is a onetime thing, then this is overkill, but if it is a pattern of behavior or a particular post that is inappropriate (maybe it contains information that is not true or is personal in nature) then that is the step to take. That is what they are there for. They want peace and harmony on their boards and if that means eliminating a voice or two that is what they will do.

Reward kindness. When someone is nice to others, join in! When someone asks for help, be helpful! If someone comes to your aid, then thank them. The nicer you are to people the more help and kindness you will receive in return.

If you act with respect you expect respect in turn. Generally that will happen. Sometimes it is all in your tone, sometimes it is in the way you handle situations. Treat everyone with respect, even if they are disrespectful, and you will find you feel better about yourself and will have a strong circle of friends as a result.

You can change the environment you are in by simply being nice to others. Support those that are kind, helpful and nice, ignore or correct those that are mean, rude or domineering. By standing together as a group you can change even the largest online communities to a nice, pleasant place for all to be a part of. This sounds a bit Utopian perhaps, but if we all treated people with respect, kindness and support, the online community would be a stronger one with more participants and for those of us who are involved in education we know that that would be a better world for all of us to be a part of.

Follow the golden rule. Do unto others as you would have them do unto you. If we all practice that thought then bullies don't stand a chance!

Identifying a Bully

It can be hard to determine if a person is engaging in bullying behavior or assertive behavior but there are some distinct differences in those two types of behavior. Many consider bullying to be aggressive and it is easy to see the differences between aggressive and assertive.

Persons exhibiting Assertive behavior:

• Speak Openly but allow others to offer opinions
• Use conversational tones
• are expressive
• Participate in groups
• Speaks to the point
• Value others (and their opinions) as equally as themselves
• Try to be kind and helpful, not hurtful
• Reach goals and assists others in reaching them as well

Compare that with:

Persons exhibiting Aggressive behavior:

• Interrupt others and tries to "talk over" them
• Speak loudly on topics trying to force you to listen
• Intimidate with expressions
• Try to control groups or a way of thinking (their way is the right way and ONLY way) and try to set rules for the group
• Only consider their point of view
• Value themselves or their thoughts more than those of others
• Do not care if their actions hurt other people
• Reach goals for themselves but with no concern for those that they hurt in the process

While it can be hard to determine sometimes during an online debate whether someone is aggressive or assertive, it is usually fairly apparent by the way they approach the debate.

"He who establishes his argument by noise and command shows that his reason is weak." 

-Michel de Montaigne

Constructive debating, that is debating with the goal of educating and being educated on issues in order to elevate all involved, is healthy. It is helpful to debate an issue but when the personal attacks or belittling of the opposing side's stance begin, the debate then becomes a different ballgame. Those who are assertive debaters can support their thoughts with facts and opinion, whereas those who are aggressive debaters resort to personal and demeaning words and tone. Not only is it counterproductive to debate in this manner it will almost always cause people to turn away from your point of view and distance themselves from you as well.

When the debate becomes personal and private information or information that is not true starts getting talked about, the line has been crossed from assertive to aggressive. That is when it becomes bullying. Usually the bully will not let go of a subject, and if they do they turn to emails sent privately to continue the harassment.

Assertive people do not care how you do something as long as you are respectful of their right to do it differently.

Aggressive people try to force everyone to do things their way because their way is the only way.

Can you see the difference? If say to you "I use this shampoo and here is WHY it works for me" and you argue that your shampoo is the best and I am less professional than you are because I use something different, that is aggression. If you say to me "I think that XXX is better and I use XXX because" then you are assertive. Big difference don't you think? A reply of "OMG I cannot BELIEVE you would use that!" is not productive nor is it helpful in any way shape or form. All it does is make the person you are replying to feel as if they have to defend themselves and in some cases as if they're not worthy of even making that type of decision. It is better to say "I do not use that" or "I do not think that is safe" and then document WHY you think those things. That way you are educating, not badgering or belittling the person with whom you disagree.

Disagreements are healthy. It is how you approach those disagreements that separate assertive people from aggressive ones. A single incident of aggression does not an aggressive person make, but a repeatedly aggressive person can be considered a bully by many people, especially if they seem to pick one person and constantly berate them or belittle their opinion. Assertive people will be firm with everyone, aggressive people tend to be friendly with some and harsh to the ones they are choosing as the target of the day. This type of action helps differentiate between the two easily.

Most bullies get nowhere by themselves. They are able to continue their behavior because they have help. In every bullying case there is an Aggressor, a Victim and at least one Bystander, sometimes called an Accomplice. The Bystander is one that allows the behavior to go on unchecked. They sometimes add their thoughts to the side of the aggressor and in some cases they even add fuel to the fire.

It is important to remember that if you take no action in a situation of bullying you are sending a message to the person who s acting aggressively that their behavior is acceptable and in turn allowing them to continue.

Like I said, it can be hard to determine if a situation is aggressive or assertive, but once you realize the differences life is better for all involved.

There are several different types of bullies as well and that only complicates things in identifying them as such. Rather than take up a lot of time here describing the different types, I have provided this link to a website that covers bullying in adults and outlines the different types of bullying that have been docmented. Bullying Site

There are many books on the subject as well, including "Girl Wars" by Cheryl Dellasega, PH.D. and the "Surviving Ophelia" series of books by Cheryl Dellasega, PH.D. and Charisse Nixon, Ph.D. .

The important thing to remember is that once the behavior is identified it is easy to deal with. Identifying it is the biggest part of the problem. It will not go away until the behavior is identified and dealt with in a professional, calm manner.

Next time we will discuss how to deal with bullies.