Hairs of the Dogs

A helpful "tip!"

We used to have a really cute tip jar. It was a bank shaped like a kitty.  Our customers found it confusing.  They tried to take its head off.  They struggled to stuff bills in the little slot. They turned it upside down and looked at it like it was a real puzzle.

A groomer friend from Canada came to visit and said, "You need a new tip jar.  It needs to be clear, with a wide opening.  Make it easy for people."  We really liked our kitty jar, but put out this clear vase as an experiment. 

The tips increased almost immediately.  By a LOT.  We keep a $5.00 bill in there as a gentle suggestion.

Another thing we did was change our credit card system to one that prints out a space for a tip, similar to the way restaurant slips do.  In the past we might $20 a week on credit card slips.  By adding this feature we now get hundreds of dollars in tips each week.  We divide the tips between all the staff, but trust me when I tell you that this change has been an enriching one. 

Bottom line is this... you need to charge enough for your grooming that you do not rely on tips.  But make it easy for customers to give you a gratuity if they wish.  And don't forget to say a heartfelt thank you when you are gifted with a tip! 

 

All American Grooming Show

Save the dates!  August 9-12

The 40th anniversary of the All American Grooming Show is coming up. 

The brainchild of Jerry Schinberg, this show was one of the very first ever held, and with this major anniversary it is pretty much guaranteed to be a great time! 

Jerry had the idea to put on a show for pet stylists in 1973, after attending a trade show for human hair stylists.  He thought this would be a wonderful thing to offer to groomers, and with his own incredible style he has been doing just that for 4 decades.  He is helped by his incredible wife, Sally, his two daughters, and a slew of other family members.  It takes them an entire year to organize the show, and if you have ever been there you can see why.  The All American is well organized, offers great educational opportunities, lots of fabulous shopping, a knock out grooming competition and lots of fun. I wouldn't miss it. Hope to see you there! 

You can learn more at: 

http://www.aagrmgshow.com

 

Dog bites...

Devil dogs.  We all groom a few. 

In most cases these dogs are not evil, the "devil dog" comment is in jest.  Most dog bites in the grooming environment seem to be caused by dogs that are un-socialized, frightened, or in pain from physical ailments such as arthritis which are aggravated by the sort of motions that grooming involves. No matter the reason, it is a good idea for all pet stylists to be prepared in case of a bite.  Good first aid kits are available at a reasonable price at most pharmacy's or stores such as Wal-Mart, and we should all keep one or more on hand.  Replace or refresh the kit as needed. I would recommend that a bottle of Betadine be purchased to keep with the kit, and perhaps extra gauze and elastic  "Vet Wrap" to cover a wound. 

http://mia-carter.suite101.com/how-to-clean-and-treat-a-dog-bite-wound-at-home-a80241

The above site has a wonderful description of how to clean a bite wound.  You can print this out and keep it in your kit.   The directions from the site follow:

  " Allow the puncture wound to bleed for a few minutes (providing that the blood flow is not excessive.) This is a very effective way to flush bacteria from the dog bite wound. For lacerations, apply pressure to stop the bleeding at the site of the dog bite.

1. Wash the wound with anti-bacterial soap for five full minutes. This is a vital step to combat wound infection.
2. Flush the wound for an additional five full minutes, allowing water to run into the dog bite wound.
3. Pat the area dry with a gauze pad. If gauze is not available, use a paper towel. Avoid towels, as towels tend to harbor large amounts of bacteria.
4. Pour a generous amount of Betadine into the dog bite wounds and saturate the skin around the wounds as well. This no-sting antiseptic solution will disinfect the wound sites. If Betadine is not available, hydrogen peroxide will suffice.
5. Wipe up drips with sterile gauze, but leave a one-inch diameter around each wound. Allow the wound and the skin within a one-inch diameter of each dog bite wound to air dry. Do not blow on the skin to dry the Betadine (or hydrogen peroxide) – this contaminates the wound.
6. Using a sterile gauze pad, apply a generous amount of antibiotic ointment into each wound.
7. Cover the dog bite wounds with a sterile bandage. Rolled gauze works best for limbs, while it's easier to tape down sterile gauze squares on the trunk or thigh.
8. Apply ice compresses to the dog bite wounds. This will help to limit the swelling which is responsible for a large amount of the pain that's associated with a dog bite."

It is my honest wish that you never experience a serious dog bite, but if you do, being prepared with tools and information how to treat the injury before you seek medical care can make a real difference in the outcome of the bite. And yes, you SHOULD seek medical care.  Bites often become infected.  The shape of the dogs teeth actually inject bacteria from the dogs mouth deep into the wound.  Serious bites almost always require oral antibiotics.

Because bites happen, it is important to be sure the pets you groom are up to date on their rabies vaccine.  Be certain you have the correct contact information for the pet owner, including the name and number of their veterinarian. 

Every groomer I know has exceptionally good reflexes... but if a "devil dog" strikes and hits, we should have the tools on hand to begin good wound care.  

 

Doggy, don't cry...

Tear staining is a common problem in the dogs we groom.  The unsightly reddish color caused by excessive moisture can detract from the most sweetly groomed face.  What is a pet groomer to do when asked to help resolve staining problems in pets? It helps if we understand what causes the issue in the first place.

Staining occurs when abnormal or excessive tear drainage occurs.  Excessive tearing happens for many reasons, some of which are:

• injury to the eye
• conjunctivitis
• allergies (food or inhalant)
• irritation (possibly from facial hair, including eye lashes)
• corneal abrasions or ulcers
• reaction to medications 
• faulty tear drainage anatomy 

The medical name for this drainage is epiphora.  My veterinarian tells me that diagnosing and treating this is a very challenging problem.  There is a compound called porphyrin which is present in both tears and saliva.  This compound can be one thing that contributes to the staining.  Also, when moisture from drainage remains in the pets fur, it creates a warm, moist environment that is a perfect place for yeast and bacteria to set up housekeeping.  It is the yeast and bacteria that cause the distinctive, unpleasant odor on the faces of some dogs with staining.  

When customers ask me how to remove the staining on their pets faces, I first recommend that they talk to their veterinarian about the problem.  Once any medical issues have been treated, groomers can help with the cosmetic side of things by:

• keeping the hair in line of drainage clipped short
• recommending that the pet owner wipe the area daily (better yet, several times a day) with a soft, damp cloth to lift the tears off of the skin and coat
• recommend the pet come in between grooming appointments to have the under-eye area trimmed
• use a brightening shampoo designed for dogs that is safe for eyes on the face and on the affected area
• recommend that the owner do some research on over the counter food additives such as Angels Eyes or Pet Spark.  These products contain antibiotics, so the owner should talk with their veterinarian before using them.

It is important that we remember that staining is most likely caused by a medical problem and that we, as pet stylists, can only address the results of the tearing, not the cause or cure.  Working as a partner with the pet owner and the veterinarian can (in an ideal situation!) help to create a trilogy of care where the owner, doctor and groomer team up to help achieve the best, and brightest outcome for the pet.

 

 

Things you don't know...

 

Sometimes groomers ask me, "What do I do if someone wants me to groom a breed of dog I am not familar with?"  or  "What if a customer wants me to do a unique grooming style/technique that I don't know how to do?"  Well, it happens to all of us.  I have been grooming 27 years and I certainly do not know it all... not by a long shot!  I had a phone call this last week that reminded me of that fact.  The customer that called has a Scottish Terrier that she shows.  She keeps his jacket hand-stripped, but wanted me to groom the dogs head before an upcoming show.  Here is how I handled it.  I said, "I believe I do a very  nice pet groom on a Scottie, but I DO NOT feel qualified to do a show trim on your dog."  The customer replied, "I've seen your work, I want you to do it."  I repeated my previous statement, she insisted, and she is coming in for me to do the dog in a week or so. In this case I have told the client I do NOT feel confident that I can do what she wants.  Twice.  But she insisted so I am going to give it a whirl.

Another example is that years ago I desperately wanted to learn how to hand-strip terrier coats.  I had little luck finding anyone who would teach me. I read everything I could get my hands on regarding the topic, and one day a woman called and asked if I could hand-strip her dog.  I said, "I know just enough about hand-stripping to be dangerous.  I would LOVE to learn more but need a dog to practice on.  Would you be willing to pay me for a pet clip on your dog and let me practice hand stripping?  I will not charge you for the extra time I will spend if you won't get too annoyed if I make an error."  The owner told me she liked my honesty, and she let me groom her dog many times while I "played" around with this new skill. 

I've done this with "unique" trims, too.  One man wanted a mohawk on his standard poodle.  I told him I'd never done one, but would be happy to try.  It took me 4 or 5 grooms before I got the mohawk the way he liked it, but since I'd told him from the start that I didn't know how to give him what he wanted, he was willing to work with me until I nailed down the groom to his expectations. 

So all of these stories boil down to this... admit up front what you don't know.  People will find it refreshing. Honesty upfront is so much better than telling the customer you can deliver something you cannot.  That is a recipe for disaster every time!   If the groom they want you to do is a skill you'd like to work on, offer a deal to the pet owner so you can practice on the pet while you learn.  If what they want is of no interest to you, try to refer them to a groomer that can fullfil thier desires. 

Meanwhile, keep on learning!  The Internet is filled with information that can expand your knowledge and advance your skills.  Go to dog shows and look hard at how the dogs are groomed, study the AKC breed guidelines, attend a grooming competition and watch the men and women in the ring create art on four feet, or ask someone you admire for a private lesson.

What do you do if are asked to try something you don't know how to do?  Tell it like it is and turn the request into a chance to expand your skills.  This is one of the things that keeps our work fresh and fun... the endless opportunities to grow.

Marinating...

Many of our customers bring us prescription shampoo from their veterinarian when they arrive with their dog for grooming.  MOST of these shampoo's have instructions on the label that the product should remain in contact with the pets skin for 5 or 10 minutes.  Just how important is this?

The answer is:  it is VERY important.  Here is why. Medicated shampoos fall into several categories.  Some of these include;  antimicrobial, antipruritic, keratolytic or keratoplastic.  The doctor will prescribe different shampoos depending on what problem the pet is experiencing.  The shampoo will begin to clean the coat as soon as in contact with the hair, but the specific action it is designed to work on the skin takes time.  Some shampoos actually alter the cellular structure of the skin to help heal it, and if the product is not allowed time to do this, the expensive product is wasted and the pets problem is not helped.

In our shop dogs that are to receive a medicated bath are first bathed in a very mild, basic shampoo to cleanse the skin and coat.  We call this a "primer bath."  We find that the dog looks better if this primer bath is used before the prescription bath, and I believe that the medicated shampoo has better luck getting to the problem areas if used on a clean dog.  After the initial shampoo is rinsed off, we use the medicated shampoo according to the instructions, (in almost all cases the label instructs that this shampoo be used full strength,so no bathing system!) and then we wrap the dog in a warm towel while it "marinates."  We have kitchen timers at every bathtub to make sure the pet gets the full time required to soak. 

In the interest of groomer health and safety, rubber gloves should be worn when applying any medicated product.  After the timer dings, the pet is rinsed well and the grooming continues as usual.  Since it does take up extra time in the grooming process, we do charge ($1.00 per minute) for soaking time. 

One additional note;  sometimes pet owners continue to use a medicated product even after the skin problem is resolved.  This can actually irritate healthy skin.  We try our best to educate the customer to this fact, but if they are firm in their resolve to continue to use the medicated shampoo, we refer them back to their veterinarian for his advice. 

 

On being FLEXIBLE...

I took these two photos on the same day last week, and when I looked at them it got me thinking about how good groomers are flexible. I don’t mean the sort of flexible that conjures up thoughts of groomers doing handsprings and splits… I mean the kind of flexible that means “go with the flow.” This older spaniel mix made it very clear that he would rather lie down for the grooming process thank-you-very-much! And his stylist “listened.” She did as much of the grooming as possible while that dog lay flat, most of the time he appeared to be napping. There is a real possibility that his clipping would have looked a bit nicer if he had stood for the process. The final results might have been a bit more smooth and professional looking. But that dog left our shop happy, tail wagging, well rested! If his coat was not quite even in every spot, does that really matter?
And these two? Despite what you might think at first glance, they are not conjoined twins! But they are deeply bonded to each other. These dogs were rescued by some saintly customers of ours from a puppy mill where they had spent their lives in a cage cranking out babies. They must have shared a cage because they inseparable friends. We bathe them together, but if we put one on the table so we can groom the other, the dog left in the cage will leap up down, even smacking her little head on the top of the cage as her debarked voice croaks in protest. So, we put them on the table together. It makes for some challenging moments while they are clipped and scissored, but it relieves them of anxiety during the process. I know many, many groomers. They differ widely in experience, skill, education and personalities. But the best and happiest groomers I know are flexible in their work practices. They allow the pets needs to dictate how they work when possible. And isn’t that what it is all about, keeping our work animal centered and pet friendly? I think so.

Those aching dogs...

                           

Did you know that on an average day most people walk about 4 miles?  And did you know that all of your body weight is supported on 26 little bones?  AND, did you know that with every  mile we walk we exert something like 200,000 to 300,000 pounds of pressure on those little bones?

As pet groomers we spend a LOT of time on our feet.  Here are some tips to help keep those dogs happy.

• Invest in good footwear
• If you have not had your feet measured recently, ask to have that done.  Our feet change as we age, and women's feet often change size during or after a pregnancy.
• If one foot is larger than the other (and this is common!) buy the larger size.  Wear a thicker sock on the smaller foot
• Try shoes on at the end of the day.  Our feet can swell 10% or more during the course of the day. Don't just stand in the shoe when you try it on, walk around.  Our feet flex differently when we walk then when we stand.  
• Shoes designed for runners, walkers, nurses or chefs work well in the grooming environment. They tend to have no skid soles, a definite plus in the bathing room!
• Look for shoes that hold your heel firmly, but have a roomy toe box and support over the arch to keep your foot from rolling (pronating.)
• Leather or man made mesh uppers are good, they allow for air flow
• Ideally you will choose a shoe with a cushioned foot bed.  This will help absorb the shock of all those steps you take!
• Replace your shoes every 6-8 months, or when they show signs of wear.

 

During the day you can do some simple exercises to reduce stress on your legs and feet and increase blood flow. 

• Stand on tip toe from time to time
• Lift one leg at a time and rotate your ankle.  Point your toes down, then up.  Flex your foot, then repeat with the other foot
• Alternately tighten then release your calf muscles.

When you take a lunch break, (you ARE taking a lunch break, right?) take your shoes off and elevate you legs to hip level on a chair or stool.  Now:

• Wiggle your toes
• Separate your toes
• Point them like a ballerina, hold a few seconds, then point them towards the ceiling.  Hold, repeat.
• Curl your toes, then turn your feet so the soles face each other.  Hold, relax, repeat.
• Roll a tennis ball against the floor with the sole of your foot... it's a mini massage, ahhh!

If you don't have anti fatigue mats in front of your bath tub and table, you should!  My favorites are Ortho Mats, sold by the very nice folks at Forever Stainless. (www.foreverstainlesssteel.com) They are lightweight, super cushy and don't absorb water (or any more odious liquids, either!)

Try these tricks and you will be amazed at how much better your legs and feet will feel. 

 

 

Organizing the grooming day...

 

I know that many grooming shops utilize "white boards" to organize thier day, and we do, too.

We have a system (I can't take credit for it, it was devised before I worked here!) that works really well and I thought I might share it in case you can take away an idea or two and make them work for you. 

Each evening the next day's schedule is written out on the white board.  We have a large shop (9 employees) so it is important to be organized so that things run smoothly and dogs are completed on time.  The scheduler in our shop, Cassie, does an amazing job!

We have some codes which you can see in this photo.   Here is how it works.

The dogs that will be getting groomed with actual hair cuts are on the top part of the board.  On this day we had three finish groomers working, you can see the first three blocks of dogs are in blue, then green, then pink.    Each groomer has a different color ink and we are located in the same spot each day to minimize confusion.  At the bottom of the board (also in blue on this day) are what we refer to as "bath dogs."  Bath dogs are dogs that are smooth coated or require trimming but not clipping.  The finish groomers rarely work on these dogs, they are beautifully completed by the bather/prep staff. Pets that get hair cuts have an "X" to the left of their name.

My dogs were the 8 on the top of the board in blue ink.  Here is what the codes mean, and how I can tell at a glance where we stand on our day:

The time in the far left column tells me what time the dog is going home. An astrix (*) next to the time tells us this was a customer requested time out and cannot be changed.  This lets me know which dogs I need to complete first.  The yellow dot between the dogs last name and its breed tells me that the dog has been checked in and is on the premises. Unusual instructions can be written here, as well.  Next to my Old English Sheepdog it says "strip before bath."  The horizontal line between the time and the name tells me the dog has been bathed, had its nails trimmed and ears cleaned.  If there is a circle though that line it tells me that the dog has been brushed and prepped and is ready for me to do finish work.  The word "bites" that you see in several places on the board tells me... well, you KNOW what that tells me.  This photo shows we had a day unusually full of cranky dogs! 

It's a bit hard to see but in the top few dogs there is a small word written to the left, it says "new." That means these are new customers and tells me I need to be sure to get really good grooming instructions when I go out to meet and greet the customer. 

The "30" at the top right side of the board tells me this was a busy day!  The "Cage Day" at the bottom tells me that this is the day we do an extra big clean on the cages, pulling out all the grates and dividers; more than just average, regular spraying and wiping.

This photo was taken early in the morning.  As the dogs are completed the groomer will draw a squiggly line though the dog so we know it is done and waiting to go home.  When the dog is picked up we erase the time on the far left, so we know it is gone. 

We also have a computer generated sheet for each pet that is prepared by our receptionist when the animal is checked in.  That sheet will have contact information for the customer as well as specific grooming instructions.  These are kept in a cardboard file holder that has hanging files and is easy accessible on a counter in the bathing room.  Each finish groomer has a folder and the dogs they are to groom go in there.  The bath/trim dogs go in a separate folder.  When each pet is completed the sheet goes back to the receptionist.  On the sheet we note if the dog had any problems, (such as a suspected ear infection or a skin problem) and we note what was done to the dog that day,what products were used, as well as any additional de-matting charges or if we found/treated for parasites. 

We find this system works well for us, but it is a work in progress.  We constantly try to upgrade the way we work to keep thing running smoothly and safely for the pets and staff.  If you have a great idea you'd like to share, please contact me! 

 

 

'Tis the season for SHEDDING..!

 
 Here in the Northeast of the U.S. the days are getting longer.  We have gained over an hour of daylight since the shortest day of the year.  That additional daylight is important to us as pet groomers, because it triggers the pets in our care to drop coat.  I share my home with 4 short haired dogs, (an antique boxer and 3 pugs.)  When I pat them, the fur is flying.  My vacuum cleaner is working overtime to keep up. 

So, how does this apply to you?  I have some tricks to share with you on how to deal with shedding dogs. In our busy shop 99% of all dogs go right into the bathtub.  If the dog, such as this Golden Retriever, is blowing a lot of coat we would wash it with a good, basic cleansing shampoo as a "primer."  If the skin is normal and healthy and does not require any sort of medicated shampoo, we would probably then give a second shampoo with a product such as Best Shot. To remove dead hair look for products that are labled as  detanglers, they are formulated to smooth the hair shafts and this will help that hair that needs to go to get out!   While the shampoo is in the coat, we would use a rake and gently pull it through the coat to remove shedding hair.  The combination of the water and shampoo help to slide the dead coat out of the live hair.  (Note:  alternately you can do this raking while conditioner is in the coat if you use it.)  Keep in mind that the dogs skin can be more prone to brush irritation when it is wet, so use a very light touch. 

The wet hair removed by brushing can be easily scooped up and discarded. The bonus of this is that the hair and dander are not flying through the air!   Next we towel dry the pet, and then the fun begins.  Using a high velocity dryer we blow water out of the shedding coat, going with the direction the coat lies.  As the hair begins to dry most of the shedding hair that remains in the coat will slide up and off the hair shafts of the new coat.  The fur's a flyin' at this point, and when we are done the tub and walls are coated.  And you know what?  This is all hair we didn't have to brush out of the pet.  Less brushing translates into less wear and tear on our arms, less chance of irritating the dogs skin and faster grooming time. 

Once the dog is on the table it takes very little time to complete the drying process and finish the brush out. 

Tools such as the Furminator are very valuable in the shop.  They truly do catch and remove coat that other brushes miss. 

If you are spending extra time removing heavy coats from shedding dogs, you should be charging for your efforts.  For instance, if you can normally bathe/dry/trim a Golden Retriever in one hour, but are spending an extra 15-20 minutes removing seasonal shedding, that is time you could have been using to groom another paying customer.  Don't give your talent and time away, you have a valuable skill set and should be rewarded for your efforts!