Pet First Aid & Care

Happy's Hoodie

Happy was an elderly, long haired dachshund and client of Tracy Carmean and Toni Vernetti. Happy loved grooming, but when it came time to dry him he became frightened and agitated. He is not alone in this predicament. It happens to many pets. Some pets become so frightened of the HV dryers that it induces a seizure. This seizure is usually characterized by uncontrollable barking, peeing and or pooping. It broke Tracy’s and Toni’s heart to see Happy so unhappy. He was such a good boy. Surely there was something they could do to ease his pain as well as the pain of others in his situation.

They wrapped a towel around his head. (The Happy Wrap)It worked well, but it wouldn’t stay in place. In addition, it was too cumbersome to dry with one hand and hold the towel in place with the other. It was the start, though. Tracy and Toni spent countless hours on it. In the end they developed a stretchy band with absorbent properties and tested it in their shop for more than a year. Once again, Happy was a happy boy. This made Tracy and Toni very happy indeed. Tracy remembers “We want to thank Happy for his contribution to the creation of the Happy Hoodie. He has since gone over the Rainbow Bridge. Rest in peace my little friend. You are loved and missed.”

Why is it important to use the Hoodie? Preliminary studies done by Barbara Bird on decibel ratings of HV dryers indicate they can create air noise that exceeds 100db. OSHA has designated 90db as capable of causing hearing loss. Dogs and cats have far more sensitive hearing than we do. The Hoodie also protects the ear drums from force damage caused by HV dryers. I prefer using the Happy Hoodie when grooming cats instead of a face muzzle. Since I can see their eyes, I have a better handle on their stress level. When used as a snood, it also offers me better bite protection than the face muzzle. I personally use them on every pet in my salon. It has resulted in a calmer, less stressful working environment for all.

In order to get the best results, our lovely model Ricky will demonstrate for us.

1.    Start with a clean, unused Happy Hoodie.

2.    Place it over the head and past the ears.

3.    Pull the Hoodie back over the ears.

4.    Make sure the ear flaps are covering the ears.

5.    Adjust the width if necessary.

Because of Happy, the quality of many pets’ lives in the grooming environment has improved dramatically. Every time I use the Happy Hoodie, I will always think of that good boy and the two groomers who loved him.

Benny the Boxer

Too often the only press groomers receive is the negative kind. You know, the one where the headline blares or the announcer screams; ” Pet Dies at Local Shop. Groomer Negligent.” Well, thanks to Laurie Kay and Donna Stepanek of Biscuits and Bows in Palatine, Illinois, NBC Chicago had something nice to say.

Benny the Boxer is alive because of Laurie and Donna. Benny has cardiomyopathy and went into heart failure at their shop. He was fortunate because his groomers were trained in Pet CPR and First Aid.  They knew what to do and in five minutes Benny had a heart beat and was breathing again.

An article in the JAVMA (Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association) states that only 10% of dogs requiring CPR will walk out of a veterinary office if they have not received PRIOR PROPER CPR. They expect this percentage to increase as more people are properly trained in pet CPR.

It isn’t just CPR we need to know. We are more likely to use first aid. There are a host of issues particular in the grooming environment.

1.    Sudden Blunt Force Trauma. This occurs when a pet falls off a grooming table or you drop a pet after tripping on a cord or slipping on a wet floor.

2.    Heat Injuries/Heat Stroke/Burns. These injuries are a result of overexposure to hot dryers or exposure to hot clippers. In addition, burns can occur if a pet is given an opportunity to chew on cords or electrocuted because there are no GFI outlets around the tub.

3.    Neck Injuries/Strangulation. An unattended pet jumps off a grooming table or out of the tub while noosed.

4.    Cold Injuries. Overexposure to cool dryers can cause hypothermia.

5.    Dehydration. Groomer has not provided water for the pet.

6.    Bleeding Injuries. This is the most common injuries caused by scissors and clippers.

7.    Heart Failure. Stress, chewing on electrical cords, electrocution and pre-existing medical conditions can all stop a heart.

8.    Seizures. Stress, improperly stored chemicals and pre-existing medical conditions can induce a seizure.

9.    Allergic Reactions. Any product used on a pet can cause an allergic reaction.

10.   Choking. An inappropriate-sized treat or any treat given to a gulper can pose a choking hazard.

If any of these scenarios occurred, do you know what to do? It’s also important to encourage our clients to learn Pet First Aid and CPR. Would Benny’s parents have known what to do?

Precious lives are entrusted to us. Accidents can and do happen. Our responsibility as pet professionals includes proper and continual training. As more of us realize it’s importance, there will be more positive stories like Benny’s.

To find a pet first aid instructor in your area, visit www.pettech.net.

 

Summer Safety Tips

The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) found that preventable accidents are the number one cause of death of pre-senior dogs and cats. The approaching summer will present its’ own set of challenges.

POOL

Pool chemicals are caustic and can cause burns; make sure to store them properly. In addition, pets need an easy exit from the pool. There are ramps readily available designed specifically for this purpose.

BARBEQUE GRILLS

    RECIPE FOR DISASTER

1.    Start with a hot, unattended grill.

2.    Mix in meat of your choice.

3.    Add the family dog.

Grills are very hot! Furthermore, cooked bones are not an appropriate treat. They can splinter causing intestinal damage as well as present a choking hazard. Likewise, corncobs cause the same problems. You should be aware of the seasoning used on the leftovers you give your pets. For example, onion is poisonous.

YARD AND OTHER OUTDOOR AREAS

Pesticide and fertilizer applications are poisonous to your pet; either by absorption or ingestion. They should not have access to treated areas. Additionally, pest traps use very yummy stuff as bait. Remember, what poisons the pest will also poison the pets. Topical pesticide treatments should be species appropriate. This is a serious issue for cats and small mammals.

Many commercially prepared types of mulch are chemically treated and can pose a health risk for your pet. Furthermore, you should not use cocoa mulch in pet areas.

Familiarize yourself with local wildlife and the dangers they present to your pets. This includes coyotes, bats, snakes, insects etc.

Monitored, appropriately-sized treats and toys will prevent a choking hazard.

Hot pavement and sand can burn pads. You can apply topical salves and ointments for protection. In addition, pets can sunburn. Make sure shade is always available. Preventing dehydration is as easy as always providing clean, fresh, cool water.

Thunderstorms and lightening are frightening to some pets. Keep them indoors at such times. Check your electronic fences after a thunderstorm. Lightening can short-circuit a fence rendering it useless.

CAR SAFETY

More injuries and fatalities occur in the interior rather than the exterior of the vehicle. We have all seen what a pebble can do to a windshield. Imagine the damage that pebble could do the soft corneal tissue of an eye. Keep your pets’ head in the car.

Pet restraints are widely available. In the event of an accident, an unrestrained pet can face or cause serious injuries. Airbags deploy at more than 200mph. A pet in the front seat risks having its’ tongue amputated by a deployed airbag. They can bleed out in 20 minutes. EMS protocol is “people over pets”. They are equipped and have the option to put down your pet if your pet will not allow access to you.

PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PET UNATTENDED IN YOUR CAR FOR ANY REASON. It doesn’t matter if you leave the A/C on as it is a mechanical device. Mechanical devices are subject to breakdown. The interior temperature of a car in 78 degree weather can reach 150 degrees in 15 minutes. It doesn’t matter if it is parked in the shade, the color of the car or if the windows are open or closed. It doesn’t matter because those factors are not influenced by the suns’ shortwave radiation. Rather, the interior components of the vehicle such as seats and dashboard are heated. They give off the long-wave radiation that heats the interior of the car. This could result in heatstroke. In turn, this could result in your pets’ death.

Even though you have done your best to provide a safe environment for your pet, accidents can and do happen. The AAHA states that 25% more pets could have been saved if only one pet first aid technique was applied prior to veterinary treatment. Do you know what to do in an emergency? Do you know where the nearest animal emergency HOSPITAL is? Have you prepared yourself by taking a pet first aid class? Your pet would do it all for you.

My Dog Is Cool

A very preventable cause of death of pets is heatstroke. It occurs when owners leave their pets in the car for “just a few minutes”.  “People mean well by taking their pet along with them while they work, visit, shop or run errands. However, warm temperature can turn a car into a death trap, “said UAN President and CEO Nicole Forsyth.

It is for this reason that United Animal Nations (UAN) operates an educational website: www.MyDogIsCool.com. It is a valuable resource to spread the word on the dangers of leaving pets in cars.

The site features include:

1.    “It’s Hot” fliers to leave on car windshields.

2.    A weather forecasting tool. This allows people to enter their zip code and find out if it’s too hot to take your pet in the car.

3.    Free downloadable “Hot Weather Warning” posters to hang in store fronts.

San Francisco State University, Louisiana Medical Society, Stanford University and the Animal Protection Institute have all done separate studies and reached the same conclusion. It doesn’t matter if the windows are open. It doesn’t matter what the color of the car is. It doesn’t matter if you park in the shade. In temperatures as low as 72 degrees, the inside temperature of the car will rise 19 degrees in 10 minutes. In 20 minutes it will rise 29 degrees and so on. In as little as 15 minutes, the car can become deadly.

What are the principals behind vehicle warming?

The atmosphere and the windows of the car are transparent to the suns’ shortwave radiation. This is why it doesn’t matter if the windows are opened or closed. This shortwave radiation heats solid objects such as the dashboard and seats. These objects heat the adjacent air by conduction and convection. The objects give off longwave radiation which warms the trapped air in the vehicle.

Leaving the air conditioner on while your pets are waiting for you is not a good idea either.  For one, it is a mechanical device and mechanical devices are subject to breakdown. Instead of cooling the vehicle, it may warm it instead. Secondly, in your pets’ excitement, they may be all over your car. They could inadvertently turn it off.

Heatstroke begins when your pets’ body temperature surpasses 104 degrees. This happens when the temperature in their environment (car) becomes higher than their body temperature with little or no air circulation (car), high humidity (heavy panting) and close quarters (car). Signs include lethargy, heavy breathing and panting, bright red gums and tongue, vomiting and diarrhea.

Heatstroke can cause shock, respiratory distress, kidney failure, heart abnormalities among other complications. Damage can become irreversible once their body temperature reaches 106 degrees. Death follows.

What can be done if heatstroke occurs?

1.    Remove the pet from the hot environment!

2.    Turn on the A/C if possible.

3.    Lower the body temperature by wetting with cool water.

4.    Do not use cold water or ice water. It is counterproductive. It will shock the system and cause a thermal barrier. The pet will be unable to cool itself.

5.    Contact a veterinarian for instructions.

6.    Transport to veterinarian as soon as possible.

Every year every animal control officer has the same story to tell. One they are tired of telling. Please leave your pets home if you have to leave them in the car.

Pet First Aid Awareness Month

April is National Pet First Aid Awareness Month and Pet Tech is its proud sponsor. Our goal is to inform and educate pet professionals as well as the pet owner about the importance of learning the skills and techniques of pet first aid.

Written materials and videos alone are not a pet first aid class. To learn these life saving skills, you must take a pet first aid and CPR course taught by a properly trained instructor. Pet first aid and CPR is best learned through lecture, demonstration and hands-on skills practice. A proper training course should cover the following: bleeding and shock, restraining and muzzling, primary pet assessment, rescue breathing, CPR, heat and cold injuries, fracture and limb injuries, insect bite and sting, snakebite, seizures, first aid and emergency preparedness kits, poisoning and poisonous substances, choking and snout to tail assessments. A better seminar will also advocate and address a healthy pet lifestyle. This includes dental care and how to provide that optimally healthy lifestyle. Furthermore, it should also stress the importance of both when to seek veterinary care and of establishing a relationship with your vet.

Pet first aid is exactly what it sounds like. The first aid your pet receives when injured. According to the American Animal Hospital Association, 25% more pets could have been saved if only ONE pet first aid technique was applied prior to veterinarian treatment. Proper first aid can mean the difference between life and death, between a short recovery and a long recuperation and between short and long term disability. Remember, preventable accidents are the number one cause of death of pre-senior dogs and cats.

For all our pets do for us, shouldn't we be prepared to help them in an emergency?

Periodontal Disease 101 by Beth Cristiano

 

Do you want to increase your pet’s lifespan by up to 30%? You can, just by spending 2-3 minutes a day on an oral hygiene regimen you may possibly add years to your pet’s life.  The American Veterinary Dental Society estimates by age three 80% of dogs and 70% of cats develop oral disease; because they do not have an oral care program. Imagine if you did not brush your teeth until your 20’s.  Ewwwww!!  Research shows a strong connection between poor oral health and organic disease. When teeth and gums are not cared for bacteria can enter the bloodstream through the gums. The bacteria may then infect vital organs causing illness, disease and ultimately death. A comprehensive oral care program will improve the quality and quantity of pet’s lives.                                        

Pet’s teeth like ours have three layers.

1.      Enamel is the hard, protective outermost layer on which plaque and later calculus form.

2.      Dentin is a bone-like substance that makes up most of the structure the tooth.

3.      Pulp is the core of the tooth that contains nerves and blood vessels.

Periodontal disease does not happen overnight but it may occur quicker than you’d imagine. It all begins with plaque, the milky white substance that forms on teeth and gums. Plaque is made up of food remains, bacteria and enzymes. If plaque is not removed it combines with minerals in saliva to form calculus (or tartar) which adheres like cement to enamel. Plaque starts to mineralize in just 3-5 days. The mineralization process is similar to candle dipping where one layer forms on top of the other. If the calculus is not removed it builds along and eventually under the gum-line. Tartar erodes the gums and forms pockets which allow more bacterial growth. There are four stages of periodontal disease. Each stage has the same signs as the previous with increasing severity.

Stage 1 Minimal plaque and calculus build up and redness at the gum line.

Stage 2 Swelling at the gum line and bleeding upon probing.

Stage 3 Receding gums.

Stage 4 Pyorrhea, a discharge of pus, deep pockets in the gums and loose or missing teeth.

The treatments associated with each stage are as follow:

Stage 1 Manual scaling, polish and irrigation, the mouth has an excellent prognosis.

Stage 2 Ultrasonic scaling, polish and irrigation, good prognosis.

Stage 3 Ultrasonic scaling, polish, irrigate and curettage, removal of diseased tissue, guarded prognosis.

Stage 4 Ultrasonic scaling, polish, irrigate, curettage and possible extractions, guarded prognosis

As you can see there are two types of scaling which are used to remove calculus buildup. Manual scaling uses hand-held tools, it is time-consuming and is best suited for mild cases. Ultrasonic or mechanical scaling uses instruments powered by compressed air which is the safest and most effective technique to remove buildup below the gum line.  Both methods require polishing and irrigation. The enamel of the teeth must be polished because the scaling process causes microscopic scratches which are ideal for plaque and tartar to re-adhere and flourish. The purpose of polishing is to smooth the scratches. Irrigation, the final step is essential because it flushes away loose debris that could cause infection. The veterinarian will decide the degree/severity of disease and which course of action is required. Veterinarian’s and certified technicians are the only people suited to perform these delicate tasks. If an ultrasonic scaling is needed the pet must be anesthetized and therefore the procedure MUST be done in the vet’s office. Most pets require pre-procedure blood work and those with special considerations such as, geriatric or immune-suppressed patients may require prophylactic antibiotics.  Symptoms that can accompany periodontal disease are

* Bad or foul breath	* Loose or missing teeth
* Red swollen gums	* Difficulty or pain when eating
* Excessive salivation beyond breed norm	* Extra time eating
* Bleeding gums	* Loss of appetite
* Yellow-brown tartar deposits	* Begging more

             

                   Severe Periodontal Disease     

 

                   After Cleaning                     

Now we will move on to prevention and maintenance. With the exception of youngsters, most pets begin their oral hygiene routine with a professional cleaning. Once you have established a clean fresh mouth; teeth should be brushed regularly, daily is best. They need appropriate toys and treats to strengthen periodontal ligaments which hold the teeth in the jaw. Lastly, great consideration should be put into making dietary selections for your pet; some choices can exacerbate oral disease. Periodontal disease and related health problems are preventable with annual oral exams and a home hygiene regimen.

 Periodontal disease does NOT occur without discomfort and or pain. Any pet in pain or being moved into pain can and will bite. Use extreme caution when working in and around an animal’s mouth.

Rub 'em, Scrub 'em, Keep Those Pearlies White

According to the American Veterinary Dental Society, by age three 80% of dogs and 70% of cats develop dental disease. Clinical research shows a direct correlation between poor oral health and systemic diseases. Bacteria, food debris and saliva cause plaque. It takes three to five days for plaque to become calculus, commonly known as “tartar”. Bacteria enter the bloodstream at the gum line. These bacteria can infect the heart, liver, kidney, lungs and weaken the immune system as it travels throughout the body. Left untreated, periodontal disease will lead to oral pain, tooth loss and systemic problems.

How do you know if your pet has periodontal disease? Signs include:

1.       Your pet has bad breath.

2.       Their gums are inflamed.

3.       The gums bleed while they are eating.

4.       There is tartar build-up on the teeth and gum line. Tartar is the yellowish-brown crusty stuff.

5.       There is a change in eating habits. It now hurts to eat. They are avoiding the hard kibble and begging for your softer food.

6.       Cats can develop resorptive lesions on the gums. These are very painful.

There are many ways for you to care for your pets’ teeth. You can practice a healthy dental lifestyle with ease. If your pets’ teeth are in poor condition, you will want to schedule a visit with your veterinarian first. You may choose to have an ultrasonic scaling done and start with a clean slate. An ultrasonic scaling is usually what veterinarians’ refer to as a dental.

 Dental Toys

What makes a toy a dental toy? The design should include ways to massage the gums, strengthen the chewing muscles, remove tartar build-up and clean between the teeth. These would include toys with raised nubs, rope toys and toys designed for power chewers. Keep in mind that you need to buy appropriate sized toys for your pets. Inappropriate sized toys can become a choking hazard.

Treats

Always read the ingredient list. Hidden sugars, such as beet pulp, molasses or high fructose corn syrup defeat the purpose of the treat. Bacteria feed on sugar. The purpose of the treat should either create friction to break down the calculus or contains ingredients that do. Examples include Merricks Flossies or Right Bites. The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) has set a standard. Products that have met their criteria carry their seal of approval. You can find information on their standards and approved products on their website:  www.VOHC.org .

Toothbrushes

While those $12 triple head brushes are good, a toothbrush from the dollar store will do the trick. If your pet allows you access to his mouth, a finger brush would be less intrusive than a toothbrush. A piece of gauze wrapped around your finger will also work.

Toothpaste

You need to use pet toothpaste. Toothpaste made for people contains fluoride and detergents which are harmful to your pet. Introduce it to your pet in a gradual, positive manner. Start with something tasty like peanut butter or tuna water. Begin in the rear of the mouth and work your way out. Your pet may be more accepting of the brush leaving the mouth as opposed to entering it. Brush their teeth in the same manner as you do for yourself. Don’t get discouraged if you cannot finish in one sitting. It may take time and patience on your part for your pet to accept it. You should brush their teeth two to three times a week.

Dental Sprays

These contain ingredients that dissolve plaque and tartar when sprayed directly into your pets’ mouth.

Dental Wipes

The active ingredient is Chlorohexidine. Chlorohexidine kills the bacteria that form plaque. Like the gauze wraps, they are less intrusive than a toothbrush.

Diet

Many commercial pet foods contain hidden sugars and a high carbohydrate (fillers) ratio. Bacteria feed on these. Read your labels. Your pets’ diet should include a high quality dry food. Dry kibble creates more friction than eating canned. The friction helps to remove tartar.

Raw Bones

Raw bones are natures’ toothbrush. They are easy to find at any supermarket. To emphasize: RAW BONES. Cooked bones will splinter and cause intestinal damage. When your pets gnaw on the bones, it naturally removes plaque and tartar. The bones also provide a good source of available calcium. The marrow contains enzymes, minerals, protein, essential fatty acids, vitamins and bulk to help your pet stay healthy and regular. This is my choice for the dental care of my pets. Their teeth, over the last year, have improved dramatically. Last year, Reno needed a dental done. This year, he does not.

 

Your pets’ teeth need to last them a lifetime. There are many options to help you practice a healthy dental lifestyle for your pets. It is never too early or too late to start.

                                                                                                                                 

It's 10pm, Do You Know Where Fluffy Is?

 

Can you imagine your beloved pet in a cold, impersonal kennel with no way of coming home? It is a sad fact that only 15% of dogs and 2% of cats will go back home once they reach a shelter. With over one million lost or stolen pets every year, what can you do to assure their safe return?  A well identified pet has a better chance of returning home.

Pets can become lost or stolen when their surroundings remain unsecured; an unlatched gate, an open window or a door left ajar. They can disappear when left unattended; in a car while you shop or left in a yard by themselves. The electronic fence or collars are not operating properly, allowing your pet to leave your property. Thunderstorms or fireworks can cause your pet to panic and run away. Winter snow storms can challenge your pets’ sense of direction causing him to lose his way. In an emergency or natural disaster, your pets can get lost in the confusion.

There are 3 ways to identify your pets; tags, tattoos and microchips.

Tags have the advantage of an instantaneous return if the tag information is current. I recommend using 2 phone numbers on the tag. A landline and a cell number greatly improve the chances of immediate contact. Tags can become worn and the information illegible. A good quality tag is worth the investment.

 Tags can fall off a collar. Collar tags are an alternative to hanging tags. They cannot fall off or become caught on something. A source of good quality tags is www.boomerangtags.com.  In the event of theft, tags can be removed.

A tattoo is a series of numbers and/or letters in ink. It is a permanent identification.  Common areas tattooed include the ears, groin and belly. A tattoo is useless unless the number is registered with a national database. Once registered, you need to keep the information current. There are 2 registries. The first is the American Kennel Club Companion Animal Recovery. Their website is www.akccar.org. The second is the National Dog Registry. Their website is www.nationaldogregistry.com. What I like about the NDR is that you can empower them to authorize emergency medical care in case contact with you is not immediate. Bernie Rogers of “S-Keemos Kennels” has this to say about NDR, “NDR was the crucial link to the safe return of my Staffie, Ruck. She was tattooed and registered with them, as were all my dogs. There was an occasion when I left the dogs in the care of a pet sitter and Ruck “managed” her way out of my yard. The sitter was afraid to call me, and still searching for her, when Ruck was hit by a city bus. A Good Samaritan transported her to an Animal Emergency Hospital. The hospital proceeded to contact NDR, and received permission to initiate treatment. NDR, not only contacted me immediately, but both of my back-up contacts as well. Ruck and I were reunited with-in hours, before I had even grasped the full situation. She recuperated 100%. ”

The problem with tattoos can be visibility.  If the groin or belly is furry, then the tattoo may go unnoticed. The area needs to be shaved. Laboratories cannot accept branded animals. Tattoos are a brand. Unscrupulous people interested in selling your pet to an animal testing laboratory will remove the tattoo, along with the ear.

Microchipping is the implantation of a bio-compatible glass encased RFID microchip. The RFID stands for Radio Frequency Identification Device. The chip is embedded in the upper neck region. A microchip scanner reads and decodes the radio transmission. The code is specific to the pet and to the microchip company. The microchip cannot be removed without surgery.

The problem with microchipping is no standard exists in the United States. There are 3 frequencies; 125 kHz, 128 kHz and 134.2 kHz. A universal microscanner is needed to identify all microchip frequencies. Too many animal shelters and Animal Control Officers do NOT have one. The Coalition of Reuniting Pets and Families reports less than 25% of microchipped pets are reunited with their families in the United States. In Europe, where they have adopted 134.2 kHz as a standard; the rate of reunited pets is at 47%. The cost of a new universal microscanner is around $400 and would make a useful Christmas present for your local shelter. The other problem is people who do not register the microchip or keep up the yearly renewal with the company. Craig Simone of the Danbury Animal Control Office says, “I hate to tell you how many times we find a microchipped dog and could not return it to its owner because they did not register the chip.”

There is no one fool proof method for identifying your pet. A well identified pet has a better chance of returning home. So the answer to the question of “It’s 10pm, do you know where Fluffy is? “should be, “Yes, Fluffy’s home.”

 

 

I would like to thank the American Humane Society, the Humane Society of the United States and the AKC for all their valuable help.