SmartStyling

ANNOUNCEMENT! Available NOW!

“The Competition Grooming Guidebook” by Christein Sertzel is now in print and ready for industry ordering.

This book is an all encompassing guide for stylists of all grooming experience levels who are just starting out, or are already active in the competition grooming circuit and want a leg up on the competition. 

With topics and chapters which cover every aspect of trade show competitions and any question that a reader could have about their journey, this book was designed with the purpose of being the mainstay tool for competitors to refer to and gather information from. 

Within this 105 page book, chapters cover everything from starting out in planning and preparation, and go all the way thru to explain how classes and points are structured, acquiring dogs, contract templates that can be used for borrowing dogs, what to expect in the ring, sportsmanship, packing lists, advice from industry icons and pros, grooming tips & tricks, what your judges are really looking for, an entire chapter of site links and contacts for more even information, journaling pages, and pages and pages of photos for reference. 

You are sure to find this book at your side as one of your most important tools and references for all of your competition journeys.

  Get your copy today by emailing directly at competitiongrooming@gmail.com

Here is an excerpt from the book!

Chapter Three: Finding & Preparing Your Competition Dogs

 

How and where do I find good quality dogs that are up to breed standard?

          The easiest dogs to compete with will almost always be your own.  The many bonuses to owning your own competition dogs are that you know this dog’s entire personality, how to bring out its best, there are no liabilities to someone else in the event of a mishap, and you are solely in control of its grooming-meaning you aren’t costing yourself grooming sales nor are you at the whim or an owner’s decision to pull out after you’ve given them free or discounted grooming. 

At times breeders are also looking to home retired breed stock.  You just have to take the first step and go up and introduce yourself and talk with them.  Tell them who you are and what your plans are and most of all- WHY you are competing.  i.e. - For the continued education and love of that breed.  By taking the time to approach these breeders and making contacts at local dog shows, this gives you another outlet by which to possibly acquire a great quality dog for competing with, either as taking a new dog into your home or just by working with the breeder as you would a regular client at your salon.  At other times some breeders are comfortable after they’ve met you, with placing the dog in your home while you are working on your competitions, like a host family.  This is a great situation as long as you are both protected for liability issues, because you have a beautiful dog with which to learn their habits and personality ahead of the competition day, and when you are finished the dog (usually!) returns home and you’ve made a life long contact with that breeder. 

By the way, you would never want to approach a breeder to talk who is actively competing- wait with respect to the hard work that they are doing to talk with them in the benching or exercise areas.  This trade of information needs to be done with respect, cordiality, and time to spare or you may waste your effort.

            If you aren’t able to take on the responsibility of another dog, again, you may want to either talk with breeders about grooming their dogs as clients for the ring, or to your grooming clients about giving their dog a try.  Most clients are thrilled and flattered at the idea that they will be getting discounted or free grooming in return for their pet being the center of all that attention and up for a possible trophy!  Many owners even like to go along to watch and get great pride from being involved.  Again, the most important element to any relationship is to be sure that you are both protected against liability issues and your extra work is guaranteed by your having that dog, fully coated and ring ready when you need them.  It is hard to fully protect yourself against the people who will work with you for free or discounted grooming and then pull the dog or cut their hair at the last minute because they never intended you to actually take the dog into the ring. It happens, rarely, but when it does, you NEED to have kept a record of the money that would then be owed to you and have that signed contract in order to collect on your end.   And you need to remember that it is a lesson learned, but to keep trying!

Another resource for attaining dogs worthy of and also having experience with competing is from other stylists.  Many times, when you are beginning to compete, you may be on your own for finding dogs unless you have a friend who is already competing. But as you progress with you experience, you may find other stylists contacting you for dogs for themselves and that they may in turn offer to share certain dogs or breeder contacts with you as well. 

At times, some of your trade show sites will list a contact for available competition dogs at the show destination or with other competitors that have dogs and contacts available- this can work out well since traveling with the dogs would be minimal and the dogs would be of good quality.  The only issue again could be that you are unaware of this dog’s personality, so you want to spend some time with these and any dog that you are meeting at the competition for the first time. 

Remember that there is always some risk involved in accepting competition dogs on site. Especially if you are newer in competing and not familiar with many other competitors who are reliable and experienced.  You never know the condition of the coat, their upkeep, their personality, and most of all- after paying expenses to get there, if the dog will be there at all!  So, if you can locate dogs ahead of time, this is always safest.  But, if you really want to compete but have a lack of dogs, don’t let this keep you from it as there are many ways to locate dogs.  

 What about competing with dogs not up to breed standard?

It can and has been done!  Most dogs that we see in our salons as clients have certain or multiple conformational flaws, but in choosing a client dog, one would just need to find one with the best conformation and the best coat to work with to accentuate or hide characteristics.  Remember that the more flaws a dog has, the more work you have just made for yourself.  But at times-especially in a beginner’s class, you may place higher if you’ve successfully achieved making that dog look as close to perfect as it can after having successfully hidden these traits.

 The elusive 6 weeks of coat growth- is more better?

 Every stylist should know the specific policies, rules & regulation for each class at each show they will be participating in.  You will always want to find your show addendum and read it thoroughly to have your guidelines set in stone before you start.  Every show that I have contacted for this book requires a minimum of 6 weeks growth.  So we know then that aside from sanitary clipping around potty areas, no clipping of the dog should be done.  Many stylists think then that if they come into the ring with double the coat required that they have a leg up on the competition for a placement.  Well, not usually- unless you are entered in an Extreme Makeover competition.  You are certainly welcome to come in with a huge crop of coat on your dog, but remember that you have to get that entire coat off & finished to superb detail just as the rest that only have 6 or 8 weeks of growth when they come in.  Certain breeds do grow coat at different rates as well as do individual dogs have genetic predisposition for how quickly they grow coat, so it is important to pay attention to how your dog looks when you are maintaining it while readying for the show.  Either way, too much coat can be difficult to effectively and skillfully wade through, especially if you are just beginning competing.  There is a point of acknowledgment that your judges will most usually give you if you make a sculpture out of a huge mound of hair, but you have to do it well or you will end up running out of time and finishing with an unfinished dog.  On the other hand, if there isn’t ENOUGH of a difference between your before & after, you may not place as well, and certainly if you do place against others that worked down far more coat, the actuality of how long you allowed your dog to grow before the competition may be questioned. Now, what your judges see and think is most important, but, one must always strive to be honest and fair when competing.  This way, when you do place, you never will second guess what you’ve earned, and if others do, you still can hold your head high.

 

 What is the foundation of a great groom? 

Understanding Prep Work is Power!

If you take anything away from this book, let it be that prep work will make or break your entire groom and therefore your placement.  You cannot get an award winning style on a dog that hasn’t been properly and diligently prepped.  So give yourself time to get this job done well because if you cut corners it will show, and you don’t want to waste your time or money trying to fix things that hold up showcasing your true ability.

Remember these tips:

*If you usually bath once- bathe twice. 

*Get your curly coated breeds as close to stick straight as their genes allow!  

*If you are allowed to do pads & sanitary work ahead of time, do it with great attention to detail and thoroughness. I have heard during judge’s critiques where they point out an untrimmed pad or a sanitary that is sloppy. And if the competition is fierce or you are looking at a “Best Groomed” placement, sometimes it is such small things that can make the chips fall in one direction or another. 

*Do not load up your coat with product the morning of your class as it will likely fall apart well before the groom is finished.  A firm understanding of your breed’s coat type and care will eliminate relying on product to do your work for you.  What topical products are SUPPOSED to do is to overcome the shortcomings of the coat such as density and texture which are best restructured immediate to the groom with little rest or movement before judging.  With the exception of densifiers like “Jazzing” or any body building or protein growth treatments for the coat, your coat should be a clean slate when you step into he ring.  Grooming in the raw the morning of your class is usually best unless you know for sure the clip doesn’t require it.  What grooming in the raw means is to not load up your dog with product other than your shampoo and conditioners which are normally required.  Keeping the coat “pure” will take away unnecessary variables that can ruin your chance of turning out the best dog your skills can achieve.   This is especially true in high humidity venues.  And remember, what products work well in your home salon, make not work so well in another climate, so another reason to try to keep the dog’s style free of excessive reliance on products.

*Preserve all the work that you just did!  Remember not to pet your dog excessively or allow others to pet them.  But, BE NICE when you ask others not to pet!  And on potty breaks or if it is raining, be diligent and get out & in quickly, and take your last potty break with enough extra time before your class to re-fluff & straighten your dog if it is needed.

 

What characteristic should I look for when choosing a competition dog?

.......ETC, ETC!!!

Remember, you can order your copy today by contacting me directly at competitiongrooming@gmail.com

Canine Aromatherapy

In the past 5 to 8 years, there has been a growing list more & more pet care professionals & pet owners that have begun to implement aromatherapy into their alternative pet care list. For us as humans, we can clearly see the benefits of aromatherapy, but for our canine counterparts, who cannot directly tell us how they are both physically & emotionally feeling or how they feel about something we are doing for them, a simple and gentle method of supportive care such as aromatherapy, can be greatly beneficial.  You can now read of Veterinarians who offer holistic services including aromatherapy and flower essence therapy, Animal Massage Therapists who implement herbal & flower therapies into their care, and pet stylists or groomers who offer these services for a wonderful spa experience for their clients. Aromatherapy is especially important for calming nerves and focusing and directing positive energy, so one can easily see that aromatherapy and herbal therapy has a multitude of applications for your pets, all of which are positive and beneficial.   

For canine massage, I have a few blends that I keep on hand for all types of massage, but often I will add a couple of essentials to them or make a simple mix at the massage session.  The reason for this is because yes, no massage and no canine are ever exactly the same. More importantly however, I believe that for the most part, massage in itself isn't nearly so much about the essentials used as it is the practitioner properly reading the animal's movement and structure and energy with their eyes and their hands, to read the dog's body like a map and decipher where there are issues and what they are. We have to do this is a fairly short amount of time, with limited explanation from their human counterparts, and if we have traveled to the pet’s home, as a new addition to the pet's living environment this always has them acting differently than they otherwise would.  So, we have a lot to overcome to even get to the beginning of a massage session in hopes of having it be a productive one.  Essentials can help to bridge these gaps so each session goes smoothly and positively.

Essentials in a carrier oil are not nearly as important to canines as they are with humans because we are not covered in fur and our skin makeup is obviously quite different. So, oil as lubrication of the practitioner's hands can actually be a disadvantage as the animal's natural oils really work best to offer the correct amount of "drag" or resistance of the fingers moving freely through the fur.  Too much fluidity can make a practitioner have to work harder to create the right amount of pressure or friction and make a mess of the pet’s coat.  Therefore, essentials in their pure form become our tool for setting the very important mood of the dog and our own energy, and not so much a tool for the physical application of a massage. 

Essentials do obviously play a role in the animal's receptiveness to the experience and overall willingness at times to receive a massage as well as their perception and therefore their memory imprint of the experience.  We have, as professionals, a clear disadvantage that the pets' owners do not: we are a stranger to their daily activities, their daily schedules and their behavior cycles that ebb & flow and make dogs either more or less receptive to massage at different times.  So, coming from their owners, educated massage sessions will usually be far more successful at a faster rate as the circle between an owner and their pet is, for obvious reasons, much more relaxed and mutually receptive. Not that we as CCMTs or Aromatherapists do not build a bond with our canine clients, we certainly do, but we would rely more on the ability of essentials to help align the environmental energy and set the outcome of the sessions by way of emotional state.  So, with that fact, essentials for us are quite important because they help to align both our moods and secondary responses to the massage session as well as the emotional state of our canine clients.  In essence, aromatherapy becomes a bridge of senses and energies between the pet and the caregiver.

For topicals used in massage, there are a few different blends that can be used, and they are both for different types of massage (addressing different care needs) as well as different types of personalities, and a pet owner may have to tweak them a little, nearly every session entered into, because both the dog and yourself might be in a different mood that day.  Or that you will be caring for your pet for slightly different care each time, even though you may be working on the same issues for many sessions.  

If your Canine Massage Therapist is caring for your pet, they would likely be implementing aromatics in the same ways, but along with their licensing and certification, they have applied their taught medical knowledge to how to use aromatherapy, herbal remedies, and many other modalities for wellness and treatment of the pet’s physical and emotional self.  As one so compliments the other in terms of overall health, well being and quality of life.

~First an Aromatherapist would address the emotional state of the dog and secondary to that, the physical needs.~

Overcoming massage anxiety- for initial meetings or with dogs that are overwhelmingly fearful of new surroundings or experiences:

Please note here that dogs that are fearful or internally coping with their own reaction mechanisms are much more harder to have a productive session with.  If you think about it, a dog that is happy and excited to meet you is FAR more receptive to seeing what you have to offer it in terms of  "What have you got that I can have”?, or “What do you have for me today that I can have fun with"? Basically, they are much harder to "win over".  Here flower and herbal essentials can help you a lot more on deeper levels than what you would implement to just calm or relax simple anxiousness or play energy. And they are important to use whether you are helping your own dogs to overcome certain emotional hurdles, or for treating physical ailments of your pets.

Here are some of those essential blends- addressing first the emotional state and secondly the physical needs of your client.

Emotional

Relaxing and aligning energy: Chamomile, Bergamot, Ginger, & Geranium.

Calming and supporting: Chamomile, Lavender, Eucalyptus & Clary- sage.

Stronger sedative effect: Lavender, Chamomile, Clove & Frankincense.

And follow up the massage with a neat drop on each cheek of this blend-

Energizing: Rosemary, Lemongrass, Thyme & Basil.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Relaxing the playful dog: Lavender, Chamomile, Vetiver, Clary- sage, Marjoram.

Focusing the excited dog: Geranium, Chamomile,  Lavender, Clary- sage.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

* There are more but these are the most important!*
Physical

Circulation, anti-inflammatory, muscle tension, muscle fatigue active sports recovery massage: Eucalyptus, Peppermint, Geranium, Rosemary & Clove.

Skin irritations and muscle atrophy due to lack of circulation: (also hot spots if they are not open) Helichrysium, Evening Primrose & Naiouli.

Deep tissue, tendon fatigue and sprains:  Ginger, Nutmeg, Clove, Thyme, Vetiver & Black Pepper.

Arthritis and Rheumatoid: Clove, Cinnamon, Ginger, Nutmeg & Black Pepper, Clary- sage, Birch, Rosemary, & Juniper, Frankincense, Marjoram, Chamomile, & Lavender (3 different blends for symptoms from severe to mild).

All over relaxation massage & pathway massage for geriatric pets: Geranium, Clary- sage Lemongrass, Bergamot & Lavender.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~You can see, there are so many essentials whose properties compliment each other- it is also just as important to mix oils that are simply pleasing to your personal tastes as this will affect how you give the massage and therefore the physical benefits for your client.

Suggested reading materials to learn about aromatherapy:

The Complete Book of Essential Oils & Aromatherapy by Valerie Ann WorWood.

Essential Aromatherapy by Susan & Valerie Ann Worwood.

The Aromatherapy Bible by Gill Farrer-Halls.

*Remember to educate yourself thoroughly on any holistic or alternative care methods before working with them with your pet.*

Canine Paw Soaks

~If your dog has excessive pad hair, you may want to trim it back first to allow for faster drying and aeration between the toes and paws.~

 Soak the dog's paw- one at a time if using a soaking tray for about 5 to 10 minutes in warm purified water and a ½ teaspoon of Epsom salts. If you are standing the pup in a tub fill the tub with enough warm water to cover most of the paws but below the top of the foot. Add about 2 Tablespoons of Epsom salts per gallon of water. Allow the pup to soak for about 5 to 10 minutes, depending on their tolerance for standing still!

Lift each paw carefully and gently scrub the paw pads and nails with a nails brush. Remember that dogs have many nerve endings in their feel so they are sensitive and vigorous scrubbing isn't necessary. This is a good time to lift back the hair from the very bed of each nail and address any red stains and oily saebum at the nail base. Many dogs have reddened hair and staining here from oxidized paw and skin oils that have interacted with enzymes in their saliva, causing a rust color and some odor. If you suspect your client may have some definite allergies, either contact allergies or internalized allergies, be sure to get the owner's approval and possibly even speak with their Vet before scrubbing or applying topicals to their feet and bodies as this could aggravate the matter for some dogs. At this time take special notice to see any cracks or breaks in the nails, excess nail growth that could cause sore toes and feet, swelling, hot spots, excessive or "yeasty" odor, cuts or debris attached to the foot hair, etc. Address any issues with the pet's owner when they return unless there is an open cut or sore on the foot, at this point you should stop and call the owner & do not scrub the affected foot.

After the dog's foot soak, lightly squeeze and pat dry the foot and pads. Gently apply and rub well in, a mixture of a few drops of fresh olive oil and pure shea butter into each pad individually especially while they are still lightly damp. You can scent the cream if you like with just a drop or two per ounces of cream with pure essential oils like marigold, myrrh, palmarosa, peppermint, ylang ylang, sandalwood, or of course lavender. Be very careful to study up on the use of essential oils before applying them to any pet for their safety and yours. Rub this cream in softly and with a kneading action to get both good penetration and to massage the pet's foot. If the pet seems excessively tender or sensitive of their feet, a foot massage may not work for them, but you can still try the soak, and always apply an emollient after your soaks to help seal in moisture and treat the freshly sloughed and tender skin.

Creating a nice client display with a nail brush, soaking bowl, pretty towel, a nice jar of your cream and a stoppered bottle of your olive oil (which can also be infused with certain herbs and essences) for your clients to view while offering the service suggestion, will give your new service a focal point to refer to for both you and your client, as well as it allows them to see the products that you will be using and discuss their purpose. 

                                                                                                                                                                                                            

 

Client Questionnaires- A Building Block for Your Business Plan

I don't know if any other business owners- especially home based salons- do this, but I send out a client questionnaire once a year, and I can't wait to get the answers back in the mail!  I do it in Spring when business picks back up and the holidays are past, but the weather is still cruddy, so people are thinking about getting their pets in and even the summer OAYs are back to being totally overgrown and muddy, and due for a groom.
I believe firmly that a well thought out questionnaire of short length is a HUGE opportunity to gather much knowledge about your current clients as well as those who may have fallen through the cracks or gone on to another groomer for some reason.  A questionnaire can do MANY things for your business!  One way is for you to gain honest feedback to help form your business plan for the upcoming year.  Another asset is the honest effort you are showing at trying to give your clients a voice in their quality of service and showing genuine interest in caring for and about them.  Also, it gives those who are unhappy, whether they are repeat clients or not, a platform of anonymity to get out their displeasure and for you to digest it with ample time to get over feelings being possibly hurt!  Either way, the factor of being able to give their opinion will get your clients to be open and honest with you and this can only benefit your business by helping you to realize what you are doing well, and what needs improvement. 
I always put in positive and leading questions and keep them short and open ended.  And since I have a smaller clientele, I can afford to make the questionnaire on one side and the salon address is printed on the other side with a stamp provided so all they have to do is seal it up and pop it is the mail- no excuses like postage or finding an envelope for those clients who really dislike taking their time for such things.  All of the questionnaires are anonymous, but they can put their name at the end if they like, and many clients just bring them in with them at their next appointment. 
Here is a copy of the template that I sent out this year to my clients, feel free to use it to help write your own, or you can copy it direct as well.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In this current state of economy, many business owners are finding it harder and harder to stay afloat and continue to keep the businesses that they love and prosper from, both financially and emotionally.  I personally take great pride in my work and truly love what I do, but, I am also human and therefor make mistakes.
So, with this questionnaire, I am sending to all of my clients, in efforts to give you each an opportunity to give me some input on what you are happy with and especially on the things that you feel need improving. If you'd like to discuss any of your input or concerns, you are welcome to leave your name and contact number on this questionnaire, or you can certainly call me directly at my salon at: 555-555-5555. 
Again, please take just a moment to give your input and contribute to the quality and longevity of my business.  I do need to know that all of my clients are happy, and those that feel I need to make changes have an opportunity to share their thoughts in efforts help myself and my business grow. 
Thank you so much for your time, and please accept this tear off coupon for 10% off of your next groom in return for your time and thoughtfulness. 
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1. Are you the owner of a large or small breed dog or dogs?
_____________________________________
2. Do you own more than one pet that comes to my salon for grooming?  Of so, how many groomable pets do you own?
______________________________________
3. What is the acceptable amount of time for your pet between grooming appointments?
______________________________________(4,6,8,10,12 weeks, etc.)
4. What negative issues, if any, have you even encountered when coming to my salon?
(hours available, days available, location, salon layout or equipment used)
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
5. What do you like about coming to my salon for your pet's grooming needs?
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
6. What other services would you like to see offered by my salon?
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
7. On a scale of 1 to 10, with one being very unhappy and 10 being extremely happy; how would you rate your overall experience with my salon?
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
8. Would you like to receive a quarterly grooming newsletter including updates, service notices and offers?  If so, please list your address here:
___________________________
___________________________
___________________________

Please feel free to make any additional comments or to add any concerns that you feel need to be addressed here in order to help me help you.  Thank you again for your valuable time and help!
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
_______________________________________
_______________________________________

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BRING IN THIS COUPON TO RECEIVE AN ADDITIONAL 10% OFF OF THE FEES FOR YOUR NEXT FULL SERVICE GROOM OR SPA DAY STAY!!

*******************************************************************************************************************

CH Hillwood Dassin DeLovely

How'd you like to groom this gorgeous doll?!!!

Dietary nucleotides improve the immune status of puppies at weaning

Animals have a continuous requirement for nucleotides, especially for systems that present a high rate of cell turnover-like the immune system. Nucleotides may become conditionally essential nutrients under certain circumstances (e.g. weaning period) because endogenous synthesis may be insufficient to sustain normal function. In this case the immune function depends upon dietary nucleotide sources. The aim of the present study was to test the impact of a nucleotide supplement, specifically designed to mimic nucleotide composition in bitch's milk, on the immune function of weaned puppies. A total of 21 beagle puppies weaned at 8 weeks of age were allocated to three balanced groups and fed one of the following diets: standard commercial puppy diet (control diet); control diet supplemented with 900 p.p.m. of nucleotides or control diet supplemented with 1350 p.p.m. of nucleotides. One week later weaning puppies were vaccinated with an heptavalent vaccine. During the study blood samples were taken in order to analyse plasmatic concentrations of C-reactive protein (CRP), non-specific immunoglobulins and antibody titre against parvovirus. Peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMC) stimulation test was also performed. Supplemented groups showed higher antibody titre against parvovirus 14 days after vaccination and higher unspecific immunoglobulin levels. PBMC stimulation test at 35 days also showed higher results in the supplemented groups. CRP 1 day after vaccination and haematocrit after 35 days showed better results for the supplemented groups. In conclusion, dietary supplementation with nucleotides mimicking nucleotide composition of bitch's milk, improved the immune response capacity of puppies at weaning.

ANNOUNCEMENT! Available NOW!

“The Competition Grooming Guidebook” by Christein Sertzel is now in print and ready for industry ordering.

This book is an all encompassing guide for stylists of all grooming experience levels who are just starting out, or are already active in the competition grooming circuit and want a leg up on the competition. 

With topics and chapters which cover every aspect of trade show competitions and any question that a reader could have about their journey, this book was designed with the purpose of being the mainstay tool for competitors to refer to and gather information from. 

Within this 105 page book, chapters cover everything from starting out in planning and preparation, and go all the way thru to explain how classes and points are structured, acquiring dogs, contract templates that can be used for borrowing dogs, what to expect in the ring, sportsmanship, packing lists, advice from industry icons and pros, grooming tips & tricks, what your judges are really looking for, an entire chapter of site links and contacts for more even information, journaling pages, and pages and pages of photos for reference. 

You are sure to find this book at your side as one of your most important tools and references for all of your competition journeys.

  Get your copy today by emailing directly at competitiongrooming@gmail.com

Here is an excerpt from the book!

Chapter Three: Finding & Preparing Your Competition Dogs

 

How and where do I find good quality dogs that are up to breed standard?

          The easiest dogs to compete with will almost always be your own.  The many bonuses to owning your own competition dogs are that you know this dog’s entire personality, how to bring out its best, there are no liabilities to someone else in the event of a mishap, and you are solely in control of its grooming-meaning you aren’t costing yourself grooming sales nor are you at the whim or an owner’s decision to pull out after you’ve given them free or discounted grooming. 

At times breeders are also looking to home retired breed stock.  You just have to take the first step and go up and introduce yourself and talk with them.  Tell them who you are and what your plans are and most of all- WHY you are competing.  i.e. - For the continued education and love of that breed.  By taking the time to approach these breeders and making contacts at local dog shows, this gives you another outlet by which to possibly acquire a great quality dog for competing with, either as taking a new dog into your home or just by working with the breeder as you would a regular client at your salon.  At other times some breeders are comfortable after they’ve met you, with placing the dog in your home while you are working on your competitions, like a host family.  This is a great situation as long as you are both protected for liability issues, because you have a beautiful dog with which to learn their habits and personality ahead of the competition day, and when you are finished the dog (usually!) returns home and you’ve made a life long contact with that breeder. 

By the way, you would never want to approach a breeder to talk who is actively competing- wait with respect to the hard work that they are doing to talk with them in the benching or exercise areas.  This trade of information needs to be done with respect, cordiality, and time to spare or you may waste your effort.

            If you aren’t able to take on the responsibility of another dog, again, you may want to either talk with breeders about grooming their dogs as clients for the ring, or to your grooming clients about giving their dog a try.  Most clients are thrilled and flattered at the idea that they will be getting discounted or free grooming in return for their pet being the center of all that attention and up for a possible trophy!  Many owners even like to go along to watch and get great pride from being involved.  Again, the most important element to any relationship is to be sure that you are both protected against liability issues and your extra work is guaranteed by your having that dog, fully coated and ring ready when you need them.  It is hard to fully protect yourself against the people who will work with you for free or discounted grooming and then pull the dog or cut their hair at the last minute because they never intended you to actually take the dog into the ring. It happens, rarely, but when it does, you NEED to have kept a record of the money that would then be owed to you and have that signed contract in order to collect on your end.   And you need to remember that it is a lesson learned, but to keep trying!

Another resource for attaining dogs worthy of and also having experience with competing is from other stylists.  Many times, when you are beginning to compete, you may be on your own for finding dogs unless you have a friend who is already competing. But as you progress with you experience, you may find other stylists contacting you for dogs for themselves and that they may in turn offer to share certain dogs or breeder contacts with you as well. 

At times, some of your trade show sites will list a contact for available competition dogs at the show destination or with other competitors that have dogs and contacts available- this can work out well since traveling with the dogs would be minimal and the dogs would be of good quality.  The only issue again could be that you are unaware of this dog’s personality, so you want to spend some time with these and any dog that you are meeting at the competition for the first time. 

Remember that there is always some risk involved in accepting competition dogs on site. Especially if you are newer in competing and not familiar with many other competitors who are reliable and experienced.  You never know the condition of the coat, their upkeep, their personality, and most of all- after paying expenses to get there, if the dog will be there at all!  So, if you can locate dogs ahead of time, this is always safest.  But, if you really want to compete but have a lack of dogs, don’t let this keep you from it as there are many ways to locate dogs.  

 What about competing with dogs not up to breed standard?

It can and has been done!  Most dogs that we see in our salons as clients have certain or multiple conformational flaws, but in choosing a client dog, one would just need to find one with the best conformation and the best coat to work with to accentuate or hide characteristics.  Remember that the more flaws a dog has, the more work you have just made for yourself.  But at times-especially in a beginner’s class, you may place higher if you’ve successfully achieved making that dog look as close to perfect as it can after having successfully hidden these traits.

 The elusive 6 weeks of coat growth- is more better?

 Every stylist should know the specific policies, rules & regulation for each class at each show they will be participating in.  You will always want to find your show addendum and read it thoroughly to have your guidelines set in stone before you start.  Every show that I have contacted for this book requires a minimum of 6 weeks growth.  So we know then that aside from sanitary clipping around potty areas, no clipping of the dog should be done.  Many stylists think then that if they come into the ring with double the coat required that they have a leg up on the competition for a placement.  Well, not usually- unless you are entered in an Extreme Makeover competition.  You are certainly welcome to come in with a huge crop of coat on your dog, but remember that you have to get that entire coat off & finished to superb detail just as the rest that only have 6 or 8 weeks of growth when they come in.  Certain breeds do grow coat at different rates as well as do individual dogs have genetic predisposition for how quickly they grow coat, so it is important to pay attention to how your dog looks when you are maintaining it while readying for the show.  Either way, too much coat can be difficult to effectively and skillfully wade through, especially if you are just beginning competing.  There is a point of acknowledgment that your judges will most usually give you if you make a sculpture out of a huge mound of hair, but you have to do it well or you will end up running out of time and finishing with an unfinished dog.  On the other hand, if there isn’t ENOUGH of a difference between your before & after, you may not place as well, and certainly if you do place against others that worked down far more coat, the actuality of how long you allowed your dog to grow before the competition may be questioned. Now, what your judges see and think is most important, but, one must always strive to be honest and fair when competing.  This way, when you do place, you never will second guess what you’ve earned, and if others do, you still can hold your head high.

 

 What is the foundation of a great groom? 

Understanding Prep Work is Power!

If you take anything away from this book, let it be that prep work will make or break your entire groom and therefore your placement.  You cannot get an award winning style on a dog that hasn’t been properly and diligently prepped.  So give yourself time to get this job done well because if you cut corners it will show, and you don’t want to waste your time or money trying to fix things that hold up showcasing your true ability.

Remember these tips:

*If you usually bath once- bathe twice. 

*Get your curly coated breeds as close to stick straight as their genes allow!  

*If you are allowed to do pads & sanitary work ahead of time, do it with great attention to detail and thoroughness. I have heard during judge’s critiques where they point out an untrimmed pad or a sanitary that is sloppy. And if the competition is fierce or you are looking at a “Best Groomed” placement, sometimes it is such small things that can make the chips fall in one direction or another. 

*Do not load up your coat with product the morning of your class as it will likely fall apart well before the groom is finished.  A firm understanding of your breed’s coat type and care will eliminate relying on product to do your work for you.  What topical products are SUPPOSED to do is to overcome the shortcomings of the coat such as density and texture which are best restructured immediate to the groom with little rest or movement before judging.  With the exception of densifiers like “Jazzing” or any body building or protein growth treatments for the coat, your coat should be a clean slate when you step into he ring.  Grooming in the raw the morning of your class is usually best unless you know for sure the clip doesn’t require it.  What grooming in the raw means is to not load up your dog with product other than your shampoo and conditioners which are normally required.  Keeping the coat “pure” will take away unnecessary variables that can ruin your chance of turning out the best dog your skills can achieve.   This is especially true in high humidity venues.  And remember, what products work well in your home salon, make not work so well in another climate, so another reason to try to keep the dog’s style free of excessive reliance on products.

*Preserve all the work that you just did!  Remember not to pet your dog excessively or allow others to pet them.  But, BE NICE when you ask others not to pet!  And on potty breaks or if it is raining, be diligent and get out & in quickly, and take your last potty break with enough extra time before your class to re-fluff & straighten your dog if it is needed.

 

What characteristic should I look for when choosing a competition dog?

.......ETC, ETC!!!

Remember, you can order your copy today by contacting me directly at competitiongrooming@gmail.com

Moisture Wrap Treatments

I have been offering Moisture Wrap services at my salon for about 3 months, now, as well do I try to use specialty products and tools on dogs that I know need the extra help. And I see just what we all see for dogs every day. Oily/flaky Cockers and other Sporting breeds, hot spots, cobblestoning, OC chewing and licking, interdigital cysts, sebaceous cysts, dry & sparse coats, you name it.  Most of these owners have been working with their vets for sometimes years with some or minimal relief. I truly feel that Vets do all they can to try to figure out and end these symptoms, but there are more pieces to the puzzle that must be recognized by the other caretakers for the dog as well in order to sometimes break through and finally get results. And, we are all caretakers of the overall health of our clients, right?! Therein enters the consideration of holistic care and how important it is in seeing the big picture and achieving a higher standard of living and quality of life.
This dog that served as a case study is an American Cocker, with some food allergies, and typical combination coat, some ear infections, hot spots, hair loss & itching/licking- the works. She is now 5 years old, and not aging well due to these underlying health issues.
I began grooming her about 9 months ago. I talked on the very first visit with her Mom- who is incredibly open minded and considerate of my experience, about all of the symptoms she has exhibited. We talked about her food and treats, her Vet care, her typical behaviors, the home environment (carpeting, smokers, age of the home, outside play areas, EVERYTHING!). All of the questions that I thought an Allergist would ask a person. I wrote all of this info down, as I have for the rest of the handful of these special clients- and I really looked at it... tried to find the things that clicked or stood out...
So, I started this dog out on a monthly visit. She got a certain shampoo every time- no deviations. She got no colognes, no spray on coat conditioners (antisats, speed driers, detanglers, etc.) She got a moisture wrap treatment and an aromatherapy treatment (heavy cream conditioner infused with TeaTree, applied & set for 10 minutes under a warm, wet towel). She had no changes to her food or treats (she is being fed Nutro, which she always has- so no "ah-has"), except that the owner added a daily ration of this Fido-Vite supplement, and I waited to see what happened. And low & behold, she started having no flakes, then the red stained lick spots subsided, then the shine and texture and density of the coat came back. And finally, the elasticity and pliability of the skin itself returned- and ever her breath, ears and foot pads smelled far better. So, I began to see, in steps, how this dog's health was returning and how happy both the dog seemed and the owners were with these changes.
Now she is so much better. She still goes in for exams a little more often than some, but because the owner really wants the best for this dog (and she worries some, too!), and the Vets wanted feedback as well. I wish that I would have taken pics of her the first visit so I could SHOW you the differences. I promise for those who are interested I will do this with the next poor dog that comes in!
So, in close- I am not plugging any products as different things work for different dogs, I only want to say that I know we all do the best we can for out clients. I know we love out jobs or we wouldn't be doing them! But, if you have the time and the interest in learning more, there is PROOF that holistic and encompassing care works for those clients wiling to do their part.

The moisture wrap method:
Mix up 1 cup or so (for medium sized dogs) of any lotion consistency cream DOG conditioner. I happen to be using

Davis

Moisture Treatment at this time- but any heavy duty conditioner with a low or no scent will work. The reason for the low or no scent is just if you want to add essential oils- which I would recommend- so there is no conflict with the different scents or perfumes.
Mix this cream conditioner with about 1 tsp. of my chosen essential oil. For this dog, and for most any dog with severe skin inflammation (but NO open sores), a high yeast count or obvious soured skin oil (causing that yeasty, loamy smell) I choose straight melaleuca or Tea Tree oil. The healing, antibacterial, sloughing and cleansing properties of this oil is amazing- but they must be administered with caution of their strength! Just be sure to do an allergy test spot on yourself before using any certain oils as well as the dog- a dab (don't rub) on the inside of the ear leather & wait for 10 minutes-look for a round red area at the application spot before you go ahead & apply.
I mix this well with the conditioner and apply it to the dog after it has been bathed & rinsed (cool water if the dog has irritated skin). This is rubbed well in up to the dog's cheeks and over the ears. Then I run a thick towel under quite warm water, squeeze it out & wrap it over the dog & tie it at the cheek so it covers the entire dog. I let this sit for 10 minutes and then rinse well. Now- I would recommend this NOT be done on a very old dog who may not tolerate the warmth of the towel well- as the warmth will cause slightly raised blood pressure, and therefore all over increased circulation to the skin.
The idea with the moisture wrap is to treat the skin irritation while the skin's pores are open after they have been cleared from as much buildup as possible, apply a topical that then seals in this added moisture and it will be significantly utilized. So, the conditioner provides the moisture sealant and the essentials provide whichever qualities they offer. There are MANY different oils one could use, I just like the Tea Tree best for its antibacterial compounds- but it must be used with caution and not over long periods of time as it is caustic in its cleansing ability.  I want to mention that any topical skin care or treatments will produce results over time, but once you get relief of the symptoms, it is important to not continue the same regimen as the skin will be signaled to shed and slough itself at treatment time, and if there is improvement in the dog's condition, this could begin a non-productive cycle. So, only use these treatments until you get results, and then discontinue.
I then style as usual, but use no added topical sprays during drying and brushing. If you are gentle with the comb & brush, the moisture introduced from the cream conditioner will make the coat more elastic, supple and resistant to brush damage.

 I choose Tea Tree for this treatment because of its healing, antibacterial and antifungal properties.  But if the essence doesn’t agree with you, and the skin symptoms are not severe, there are some wonderful aromatic blends like Chamomile and Vanilla, Lavender & Eucalyptus, Lemongrass & Comfry, Citrus & Sage.  The only ones to stay away from are strong menthols and Spices- like Cinnamon and Spearmint- unless they are very diluted or blended with a dampening essence (Vanilla is a good one) to lessen their strength both for the dog & yourself- then they are usable also.

Have fun, use your head, and do great things!

Yucca

Yucca schidigera is a medicinal plant native to Mexico. According to folk medicine, yucca extracts have anti-arthritic and ant-inflammatory effects. The plant contains several physiologically active phytochemicals. It is a rich source of steroidal saponins.

Saponins have diverse biological effects, including anti-protozoal activity. Protozoal diseases in which part of the life cycle occurs in the gastrointestinal tract respond to the anti-protozoal activity of the saponins in Yucca.

Yucca powder and yucca extract are used as animal feed additives. Beneficial effects in livestock and poultry production include: increased growth rate and improved feed conversion efficiency, reduction in atmospheric ammonia in confinement animal and poultry facilities, anti-protozoal and nematocidal activity, modification of ruminal microbe populations, inhibition of Gram-positive bacteria, reductions in stillbirths in swine, and anti-arthritic activity in horses and dogs.

Yucca products have GRAS status, so are FDA-approved for use in humans.

Yucca saponins are as effective as the drug metronidazole in killing tropozoites of Giardia lamblia in the intestine (McAllister TA, Annett CB, Cockwill CL, Olson ME, Yang Y, Cheeke PR: Studies on the use of Yucca schidigera to control giardiasis. Vet Parasit 2001, 97:85-99.).

Skills Growth Through Personal Critiques

As busy stylists we may not all be able to afford the time away or the fees for one on one classes with an instructor to get all of the fine tuning that we want for our finish grooms.  We can still, however continue to educate ourselves and teach ourselves to be objective and detail oriented about out work, without being overly critical.
It can be hard for many, with all of the effort that we put into our finished grooms, to stand back and give an honest overview of what our grooms look like before they leave the salon.  But, if we can learn to do this effectively, as individual stylists, we have a leg up on the competition by putting out quality and details that some groomers often overlook. 
The first and most important guideline in gaining confidence I feel is to always continue to educate ourselves by keeping up on trends, techniques and challenging our skills growth by watching current videos and training DVDs.  There are many on the market to teach us a plethora of invaluable time saving and profitable techniques. 
Another simple way is to get out to the industry trade shows and learning seminars.  Meet fellow stylists, and write up a list ahead of time to take with and talk individually with the course givers on areas that you want to brush up on, take thorough notes through the seminar as you will certainly look back over these after the event and see things you had forgotten about.  Most every instructor will always go the extra mile to know that they have given every attendee something important to take back to their businesses and utilize for the betterment of this industry.  Don't be shy, ask every question you have, and always be open to others input and opinions.  One of the best ways to find yourself feeling stagnant and with a lack of confidence, is to not take the opportunity to get out and learn all that you can for that competitive edge. 
Also, take the time and put the money into a good variety of books and magazines to have on hand for reference.  The photos and depictions in these books will be ever so important to you for comparison and reference.  Keep a few of these books near your work station to look at and even keep the book open to the page of the breed you are trying to improve on as you work.  Look at the photo and then look at your client- this sets a pretty black & white picture in front of you to compare to.
Take the time to choose certain dogs each week that you want to spend the extra time on and teach yourself with.  Schedule these dogs some extra time and look at photos ahead of time- the internet is spilling over with endless ways to get reference material to look at- don't forget about YouTube for some great short video clips.  Often if you let the pet owner know that you are working to perfect the clip on their breed of dog, they will work with you and give you some artistic freedom.  And, if you can't keep the dog in full coat as per breed standard, you can still groom them to finish, do your evaluation, take photos, and then finish the dog with the details that the owner requests.  Or, just concentrate on honing your scissoring and tailoring skills overall.
Take the time to work the dog through, put it away for a bit and then come back and look it over again after a fluff to see if everything is where you want it before it leaves.  Taking a few minutes away helps to clear away the image saturation that occurs when we look too long and hard at one thing for too long! Often you will notice different points that you missed before just because your eyes and brain basically needed to be "reset". 
I encourage all stylists to put up a good sized mirror across from their work table at waist height to use to look at your dogs.  Clean ff your table!  Stack your finished dog squarely on your table, and take a good look at the total picture.  Look for flowing symmetry and proper proportion in areas like the legs, feet, head and beard.  Look also at this time for smooth finish and overall balance of the dog's presence from top to bottom.  Have you accentuated some of the dog's better characteristics, and tried to cover those not so flattering?  Have you implemented it's breed standards?  Try to stand back and be objective (taking in the whole picture) about what you see in front of you, compare it to the pictures you have for reference and the mental image of what you see as the finished work you want.
One of the most priceless ways for you to be objective and give yourself a clear definition of the finished work you do is to take photos.  Keep these on hand; make a scrapbook of all the grooms that you feel are your best.  And more importantly, take a hard copy of the photo and draw onto it where the lines and angles should be set on that dog as a simple image on paper.  Be sure that the table is clean and the dog is squarly stacked as much as possible.   Keep these pictures on hand for the next time you groom the dog and compare to them.  This will give you a "work in progress report" each time and let you play around with your dog's clip a little more at each visit, working towards "perfection". 
Remember that there is a reason for the saying "we are our own worse critics".  Most people put a lot into their work, and pet styling is a creative, artistic field.  But, if we can teach ourselves to take advice, challenge our skills often, and be a little more honest and objective about our work, the only thing that will come from questioning ourselves is personal growth, and confidence in the certainty that we have done our best.