WHAT ARE ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS?
Also known as AHA’s, alpha hydroxy acids are a family of water-soluble chemicals that occur naturally as components of fruits, sour milk, and sugar cane. They may be obtained from their natural sources or produced synthetically. There are several AHA’s , the three most common being Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Citric Acid. In terms of their acidity, AHA’s are much milder than the strong industrial acids such as sulphuric acid that we think of as causing horrible damage.
AHA’s are widely used in dermatology and skin care products to gently exfoliate the skin to get rid of dead tissue and create a new vibrant skin surface. They are used as the basis of many skin peels and anti-aging creams. They exfoliate by degrading the glue that holds skin cells together. They can be formulated in products to have anything from a very mild effect to a major skin resurfacing effect.
Safety considerations: There has been some concern that the exfoliating effect of skin peels might leave skin susceptible to sun damage. While this has not been scientifically confirmed, some products using AHA’s now include a sunscreen as a safety measure. It is important to note that studies have NOT found that AHA-containing products contribute to an increase in the incidence of skin cancer.
In hair care, the most common use of AHA’s is to adjust pH. Citric Acid is most often used for this, in very tiny amounts. In a larger amount, Citric Acid is used in ShowSeasons Results Rinse to create an acidifying rinse that closes and smoothes the hair cuticle without the weight of most conditioning agents. Lactic Acid acts as an excellent humectant and can be found in some pet shampoos and conditioners. Glycolic Acid is finding a place in human hair care products, as it has been found to strengthen the hair shaft, moisturize, and improve resistance to heat. AHAs in hair products impart lubricity without oiliness or buildup. Lubricity is lack of friction. Imparting lubricity amounts to added slip or slipperiness. It is especially desirable in a de-shedding shampoo and light conditioners.
One pet shampoo company lists “Alpha Hydroxys” in their ingredient lineup. They have dropped the “Acid”, probably because they want to avoid a possible negative reaction to the term. But this makes the ingredient name disingenuous. It also looks like a state-of-the-art ingredient without really disclosing what it is. If/when you run into an ingredient named “Alpha Hydroxys”, your question to the company is “which Alpha Hydroxy Acids are you using?”
Alpha Hydroxy Acids are discussed as the Ingredient du Jour on The Groom Pod podcast #12. Podcasts can be found at the website: www.thegroompod.com or on iTunes and Stitcher.
SOURCES:
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/haircare/231181731.html
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