BBird TALK

PET OBESITY - Should Groomers Care?

As a pet groomer for 42 years, I have a serious commitment to partnering with pet owners in the welfare of their pets.  I firmly believe that my job goes beyond the bath and the haircut.  It’s my job to notice things, and one of the things I notice is when dogs get fat.  For years I tiptoed around this subject with my customers.  After all, I’m not a vet, so why should I be the fat dog police? 

I’ll tell you why…because fat dogs are silently suffering.   I  learned for myself that obesity hurts.  I learned because a few years ago I gradually packed on weight to the point of being too fat.  I stopped exercising because my back hurt, and I would spend most weekends lying on wedge pillows.  My right knee hurt so bad that I bought a knee brace, only to discover my knee was too fat for the size large.  I had scary episodes of tachycardia at night and my heart would race like an Indy car and I couldn’t get a blood pressure reading.  At age 69, it occurred to me that I might be slowly dying.  I went to the doctor for the first time in 10 years.  The doc said, “I don’t mean to be blunt, but I think most of your problems are from stress and overweight.”  I was rather upset, but in my heart I knew she was probably right.  I fired the stressful employee and set out to lose weight.  I lost 70 pounds.  The huge difference in how I felt after the weight loss helped me to appreciate the cost of being fat.  I could no longer tip toe around the subject with my pet owners.

People let their pets get overweight by accident. One very misleading factor is the serving suggestions on pet food packages.  I don’t know who makes up the feeding suggestions, but they are often way too much for the average couch potato dog.  Hello!  Those people want to SELL MORE DOG FOOD.  My Bichons would be balloons in no time if I fed the recommended amount of our food.  One of the excuses I hear from owners of fat dogs is, “I feed what the package suggests.”  Sorry, but if the dog is getting fatter and fatter, it’s getting too much food.  Another common mistake is not to count treats as a part of the daily diet.  That’s like the fat lady in my Weight Watchers group who said, “I figure if I eat it in the car before I get home, it doesn’t count.”  LOL!  Treats count!  Here’s a link to a calorie chart for many common dog treats.  http://www.petobesityprevention.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Dog-Food-Calorie-Counts-December-2011-Dog-Treats.pdf

Dogs usually gain weight gradually over a period of time and the owners often don’t see the obesity.  The dog’s groomer, however, sees the dog wet in the tub.  We see the naked truth.  The dog’s hair or coat often conceals the body condition.  When the dog is wet, I can see the lack of indentation behind the ribs (the “waist), I can see that underneath the chest hair, the dog has a handful of fat.  I see pockets of fat over the hips and rolls of fat on the back of the neck.  The most common expression of denial is “But I can feel his ribs”.  Newsflash!  We can often feel the ribs of an obese dog.  How deep do you have to dig to feel them?  Can you pinch an inch of fat covering the ribcage? Feeling the ribs is really not a good indication of whether or not a dog is overweight.  The lack of a “waist”, a potbelly, and pockets of fatty deposits are better indications. 

Groomers also notice signs of obesity in dogs while on the grooming table.  The most common is a fat dog that can’t or won’t stand for the whole groom.  This can also be associated with arthritis or hip problems, but if a dog is too heavy, they prefer to sit or lie down.  I groom a precious little Border Terrier who looks like a football on popsicle sticks.  Her little legs simply cannot bear her weight for standing to be groomed.  We let her sit down or someone holds her up for me to scissor inside the legs.  Heavy breathing and respiratory distress is another sign we see on the grooming table.  Fat dogs come for shave downs in the summer, panting and wheezing, as if removing the hair is going to make them more comfortable.  We also see dogs that are grumpy from being fat.  Oftentimes the pet parent blames the aging process.  From my own experience, it is very difficult to distinguish the effects of aging and the effects of obesity, but losing weight will make the body more flexible and willing to move.  Grumpy dogs often hurt.  Fat HURTS, folks!  Let’s be real.  Our dogs are not “chunky,” they are fat.  They are not fat because they are lazy; they are lazy because they are fat. 

 To the pet parent: Please don’t take it personally if your groomer, trainer, or vet tells you that your dog is overweight.  It is not an indictment of your worth as a pet parent.  Fat happens.  Your pet counts on you to look after his health and obesity is not healthy.  Don’t wait for your pooch to become the equivalent of a 500-lb man before you accept that the dog is FAT.  It is much easier to take off 5 lbs than to help a dog lose 15 or 20.  

To the groomer: How can we best deliver the message to the owner of a dog we observe to be obese?  Gently, but directly.  It helps if you first praise the pet parent for being a good steward of the dog.  Compliment their pet care. Don't just deliver the news that their dog is fat - Engage them in the observation: "Have you noticed that Buffy no longer has a waist?"  "Does Buffy look like she is packing on the pounds?"  Get them to look at the dog realistically.  The Purina Body Condition Chart can help you identify and share how dogs look when either too fat or too thin. Click HERE to go THERE.

 

NO MORE EAR HAIR PLUCKING!

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: 

Contrary to what you may have been previously taught, requested, or commanded, the current advice from veterinary dermatologists is that plucking ear hair can do more harm than good.  Rather than prevent ear infections, this procedure can actually create a greater likelihood of infection by damaging the tender inner ear tissue and allowing a foothold for bacteria to thrive. 

 In her presentation to Tucson, Arizona groomers, “Ears: What Every Groomer Needs to Know”, Dr. Heide Newton, DVM, DACVD plainly stated that groomers should stop plucking ear hair from inside dog’s ears. “Healthy ears are self-cleaning”, stated Dr. Newton. She encouraged groomers to continue the practice of ear cleaning, however, using products formulated for ear care, and massaging the base of the ear to allow the product to loosen wax and debris from deep in the ear canal.  Clipping and/or careful scissoring of excess hair around the ear opening is also helpful for maintaining ear health. Q-Tips should be used only on the crevices of the outer ear, not down into the ear canal.  The concern is not that the eardrum might be damaged as with human ears, but that waxy material may be inadvertently packed further into the ear canal.

 Another clear statement from Dr. Newton was that “Bathing with clean water will NOT cause ear infections.”  Contaminated water may introduce microbes that lead to ear infections, but clean water is not a problem. 

 The possibility of cross-contamination from an infected ear to the other ear or another animal is the one area where groomers might be at fault.  It is very possible for pseudomonas bacteria, the most common infection agent, to transfer from an infected ear to various surfaces and then be picked up by other animals or even humans.  The most obvious sign of a pseudomonas infection is what vets call a “purulent exudate”. Translation: yucky discharge.  If the groomer suspects an ear infection, Dr. Newton suggested the following protocol:

1. Clean the GOOD ear first. 
2. If the ear with the suspected infection is cleaned, be gentle and use a non-stinging ear cleaner. The groomer may also choose to not clean an ear with a suspected infection, especially if it looks serious.
3. Disinfect everything that has had contact with the suspicious ear or might  be sprayed with shaking of the ears.  This includes, your hands, the tub, the faucets, any tools, the table, the kennel and bedding, and the tip or spout of the ear cleaner bottle. 

 In addition to ear discharge, other signs of ear abnormality are redness, itchiness, odor, swollen tissue of outer ear, hair loss on earflap, and scabs or scaliness.  Ear problems are often quite complex and difficult to nail down and treat.  A referral to the veterinary dermatologist can result in a quicker and more accurate diagnosis and more effective treatment, thus lessening the time the pet has to suffer with uncomfortable, often painful conditions.  By encouraging pet parents to seek treatment for suspected ear problems, the professional groomer is serving the needs of the pet. 

 Speaking to about forty Tucson pet groomers, Dr. Newton is a member of Dermatology For Animals, a group of practicing veterinary dermatologists based in Gilbert, Arizona with practices in several states across the U.S.  Veterinary dermatologists such as Dr. Newton, undergo several years additional training and examinations beyond that required of general practitioners.    In addition to working full-time in the Tucson practice, she currently serves on the American College of Veterinary Dermatology (ACVD) Exam Committee (the certifying board) and is a lecturer for the North American Veterinary Dermatology Forum (NAVDF) Resident Education Forum. 

 

Additional References:

Pseudomonas Article - http://www.allergyearskincare.com/animal-care/component/content/article/81.html

DOES MORE TIME IN THE BATH YIELD BETTER RESULTS?

            I enjoy reading groomers’ descriptions of their bathing rituals, what products they use, the sequence they employ, and how long they let various products “set up” on the coat or skin.  These descriptions are shared in the sincere belief that the ritual and timing is as important to the result as the products themselves.  Although I honor the value of ritual in giving us confidence in our results, some of these rituals are based on myth and fiction. Today we will look at some facts in the relationship between time and use of pet grooming products. 

 SHAMPOO CLEANING AGENTS:

            MYTH: Leaving a regular shampoo on longer will yield better cleaning.

            FACT: The action of cleansing surfactants is instant.

            FACT: Movement of the cleansing surfactant through the coat is more important to better cleaning than is additional contact time.

            FACT:  The possibility of skin irritation from the shampoo detergents (contact dermatitis) is increased with increased contact time.  Some detergent cleansing ingredients, such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, have been removed from many human bubble bath products because of a high incidence of contact dermatitis following soaking in the products.  These same ingredients are used in many pet shampoos.             

            FACT:  Mechanical action, scrubbing or massaging product through the coat by hand or water pressure through a bathing system, is more important to thorough cleaning than increased contact time.

ANTIBACTERIAL, ANTIFUNGAL AND THERAPEUTIC AGENTS - FACT: Most antibacterial and antifungal agents require 5-10 minutes of contact time with the skin to be effective.  It is important to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the label. 

            MYTH: Leaving a medicated shampoo on longer will give better results.  Not true, although leaving it on less may compromise the desired results.  Leaving a medicated product on longer may risk skin irritation from the detergent ingredients. 

CONDITIONERS -  A very basic generalization is that agents that require penetration of the skin or hair cuticle need time to do this.  Penetration is never instant.  Conditioning ingredients that have been made cationic and simply attach to the hair surface can do so quickly without set up time.  Many conditioning agents are of this type, especially anti-static ingredients and silicone detanglers.  The best clues to what types of ingredients are in a conditioner are the instructions on the label.  If the label says to leave the product on for 2-5 minutes (or more, as in a remoisturizer), it means that it requires that time for full effect.  If the label does not suggest a time frame, most likely the product acts quickly. 

Another way to tell if a conditioning ingredient is cationic is to look for the suffix –onium. This means that the ingredient has been “quaternized” or made cationic.  This clue, of course, only works for products where the manufacturer discloses ingredients and uses the technical terminology.

CONCLUSION: Many hair conditioning agents, especially more sophisticated ingredients, act instantly and do not require long “set up” time.  Old-fashioned ingredients, and many less chemically sophisticated agents require time to work. For many regular conditioners, there is no benefit from greater contact time than is suggested on the label.  Conditioning “treatments”, deep conditioners, and skin moisturizers can benefit from longer contact time, but anything beyond ten minutes can be a waste of time.

TEXTURIZING AND BODYIFYING AGENTS - Texturizing is usually accomplished either by adding stiffening ingredients, or omitting ingredients that soften the coat.  Texturizing products do not usually require extended contact time.  Bodifiers may require penetration of the hair cuticle.  An example of a bodifier that needs a few minutes of extra contact time would be Chris Christensen Thick N’ Thicker Foaming Protein.  Spray-on products usually have instant effect.  Again, the manufacturers instructions are your best clue.  The best practice is to use a timer to be accurate in your set-up time. 

PESTICIDAL AGENTS - Flea and tick products almost always require a few minutes of contact to be effective, especially the more natural ingredients.  Leaving products on for longer than the manufacturer’s instructions, however, can lead to irritation or even toxicity.  Putting pesticidal or medicated products on pets and leaving them sit in a cage while the groomer does other things risks overexposure to either the active ingredients or the detergent surfactants. Using a timer is important to the accurate application of pesticides.  

 COLORING AGENTS - This is another group of products that requires careful timing and care in use.  It is important to use color enhancing shampoos on thoroughly wet coat unless otherwise instructed, and for only the recommended contact time.  If too much pigment is deposited under the hair cuticle lens, you will have a dye job instead of color enhancement. 

          To summarize, there are very few products where lengthy contact time has been proven to yield better effects.  In terms of shampoos, extended contact  may risk contact dermatitis or toxicity. If you are hand bathing, extra time spent rinsing is likely to be more helpful for your results than extra time of product sitting on the hair/skin.  Color enhancing ingredients, bodifiers, and some deep conditioning ingredients may benefit from extended contact, but many ordinary shampoos and conditioners work very quickly and extra “set-up” time is wasted. Anionic cleansing surfactants and cationic conditioning ingredients work instantly, like magnets, and thorough application is more beneficial than more contact time.  Always read and follow the instructions on the label. Time at the tub can be very elastic, so we recommend that you use a timer.

 

 

What is the Difference Between Pet & Human Shampoos?

Ah, one of my favorite topics. Let me sit back and savor it, like a fine wine. I'd like to savor it WITH a fine wine, but I just gave up the extra calories in an attempt to shed a few of my uglier pounds.  You know the ones I mean, those pounds that sag and bag.  Gravity is mean to seniors! 

The bottom line is that although there are some major differences between a top shelf human shampoo and an economy pet shampoo, there are a great many middle range products that are quite similar. Some of the more sophisticated pet shampoos have formulas that are nearly identical to their human counterparts. The human and canine skin and hair may be somewhat different, but the similarities between the two species are greater than the differences and the same goes for the shampoos.

 Human Shampoos Have More Additives - A broad difference between shampoos for pets and those for humans is that human shampoos tend to have more additives in them, but some of the premium pet shampoos are catching up. Basically, a shampoo contains: water, a cleansing system (surfactants), a thickening/foam building system (more surfactants), a preservative system, and the additives.  The additives are ingredients that give a shampoo its unique character, including color and fragrance.  Together, they usually make up no more than 2-5 percent of the product. When I first started grooming in the ‘70’s, pet shampoos were fairly simple formulas, often no more than four or five ingredients. Nowadays it is not unusual to find pet shampoos with more than 10 ingredients.  

Conditioning ingredients, such as Cetrimonium Chloride and Dimethicone, are functional additives that provide anti-static, detangling and hair softening benefits.  It’s hard to find a human shampoo without some type of conditioning additive, and pet shampoos are following suit. One additive that is popular in pet shampoos that is not often found in human formulas is Oatmeal.  It has become a fad ingredient in pet products. Some additives are present primarily for marketing value because consumers recognize them as having certain qualities.  An example is Aloe Vera.  This additive is synonymous with “soothing” and “moisturizing”.  While it is sometimes a functional additive in significant quantity, it is often present in “pixie dust” amounts so that the manufacturers can put it on the label.  This has become true of Oatmeal in pet shampoos.  Protein additives, such as Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, are becoming popular in pet shampoos.  These ingredients fill in the cracks and crevices in the hair cuticle, temporarily smoothing and adding an appearance of greater volume. Fragrance additives have become a huge trend in both marketplaces.  When I started grooming our pet shampoos had just enough fragrance in them to cover up the odor of the basic ingredients.  Now groomers are asking for more heavily fragranced shampoos and want a fragrance that lasts for days.  The downside to this fragrance trend is that fragrance ingredients in human products have been identified as the most frequent cause of allergic reactions.  It is logical that this holds true for pet products as well.  And fragrance-extending ingredients are most likely phthalates, which are problematic as possible cancer-causing substances. 

Differences in pH - Much ado is made on the matter of the alleged differences in the pH of products designed for pets, with implication that to use off-label products could be harmful. This is a lot of mythology, created to steer people away from using human products and to sell products labeled for pets.  Actual measurement by this author of over 60 pet and 45 human shampoos revealed that there were more significant differences in pH within each group than there were between the two groups. To review the entire study and discussion as published in eGroomer Journal, click here. 

 Pet Shampoos Are More Concentrated -The hypothesis about pet shampoos being more concentrated may hold up for some products, but not for all. Many premium human shampoos have about the same percentage of "solids" (i,e, ingredients other than water) as do many pet shampoos. Only those pet shampoos advertising 35:1 or greater dilution ratios are consistently more concentrated than human products. News flash: Most human shampoos can also be diluted. Pet and human shampoo manufacturers are all drawing from the same marketplace of chemical suppliers for their ingredients. In fact, some companies manufacture product lines for both pets and humans. There are no particular ingredients that are found in human products that are considered safe for people and acknowledged as unsafe for pets. The one thing I would say to keep in mind, whether shopping from the pet marketplace or human products aisle is that the more plant, protein, color and fragrance, the greater the likelihood of an allergic reaction.

 The Biggest Difference – Where there is a huge difference between pet and human shampoos is not what is in the bottle, but what is on the label.  The labeling of human shampoos is guided by legislation that mandates that all ingredients must be disclosed in descending order of volume in the product and identified by their formal names.  No such requirements exist for the labeling of pet products.  Manufacturers are free to disclose or not disclose any or all ingredients.  A cloak of “trade secrecy” exists over pet products, with many major manufacturers refusing to reveal their main ingredients, and listing only additives or particular ingredients that have marketing value. Nor do ingredients in pet products need to be identified by formal (INCI – International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names.  While a human shampoo would have to identify a primary surfactant as “Sodium Laureth Sulfate”, a pet shampoo could list the same ingredient as  “mild coconut cleanser”.  This kind of ingredient description is a dodge ball tactic that allows pet product manufacturers to appear to have a list of ingredients while they continue to tell us very little about what is in the product.  Because this is allowed, it makes these products look more benign and pet-friendly than the products that are labeled following the human cosmetics guidelines, and it makes it very difficult to compare pet products.  

Recirculating Bathing Systems - FAQ

Groomers are often intrigued, but misinformed about recirculating bathing systems, such as the Hanvey Bathing Beauty.  Please allow me to address some commonly asked questions.

How does a recirculating system work?

Basically, the system consists of a self-contained submersible pump, a flexible hose and a spray nozzle with an adjustment valve so you can reduce the pressure for faces or puppies.            A very important feature of a good system is an electrical system with GFCI capacity, to prevent shock around water. Most systems also come with an air button that can be used at the tub for on/off function with your foot or knee or can be placed for hand or elbow use.

How are these systems used? The tub drain is plugged. Water is drawn into the tub, shampoo or conditioner added, and the product is mixed in the tub (takes 3 seconds) and then the solution is forced through the coat by the pump over and over until the pet is cleaned. This usually takes from one tofive minutes and then the tub is drained and the animal is rinsed with fresh water.

How much water is needed depends on your tub. You need enough water to cover the bottom of your pump. If the pump is growling, it is getting too much air and not enough water. A tub that is tilted and has a lower side works on less total water than a flat-bottom tub. For most bathing, you probably will be using 1.5-2.5 gallons of water and 1/2 to one ounce of shampoo.

 What are the advantages of a recirculating bathing system?

1. Efficiency - In one step, the recirculating system is doing 3 and 3/4 steps of the hand wash: pre-wetting, applying product, working product through the coat, and 3/4 of the rinse.

2. Saves Product - Many animals can be bathed used only 1/2 ounce of shampoo product and an ounce or two of conditioner. Instead of applying more and more product as you bath a dirty dog, you are applying the product over and over, getting maximum cleaning from your products. Even if a filthy dog requires a second bath, you have still saved product.

3. Saves Water - The old admonition to “rinse rinse rinse” is history with the recirculating system. Most of the rinsing is done in the bath “cycle” leaving only about 1/4 of the rinsing to be done in the final rinse. This not only saves water, but saves hot water especially. The recirculating system is a great addition to a mobile unit.

4. Saves Time - Precious minutes of tub time are saved with each bath. Since dogs (and cats) are out of the tub quicker, there is less time for them to react and become distressed. Less time, less struggle, less stress. I’m for that!

5. No sudden temperature fluctuations - The recirculating system does not suffer from sudden heat spurges or going cold like the water from the tap might. Although the bath water may cool off some, most baths are accomplished with consistent skin-friendly lukewarm water temperature.

6. Less chance of shampoo irritation or allergic reactions - Because of the higher dilution of products through the bathing system and the greatly reduced duration of contact with the animal’s skin, there is a significant reduction in the possibility of undesirable reactions to products.

7. Less rubbing is better for the hair - Hair care experts explicitly state that just about everything we do that is rubbing hair together causes some damage to the hair cuticle and increases the chance of tangling and snagging the hair. In this important respect, there is no difference between pet and human hair. The mechanical cleaning action of the recirculating bathing system is cosmetically perfect for taking optimal care of the hair.

    Will my existing products work with a bathing system?

Most likely your favorite products can be used in your new system. Shampoos that are made especially for recirculating systems are, however, more concentrated than some products so that they will hold up with the extreme dilutions of the bathing system, and they are made with less foam building ingredients. Persons who formulate and manufacture our shampoos are used to providing a LOT of suds and thick suds can impede the action of the shampoo solution in a pump system. The pump can’t pump as much solution when the foam is clogging the screen. The result is that the pump works harder and not as much volume of product is pumped through. The rule of thumb is to use less product than you would think. Rarely should you have to use more than 1 ounce of product for one or two gallons of bath water. If you don’t like the results, cut back on shampoo rather than add more. It is a good idea to start out using something that has been formulated for a bathing system or that other groomers who use your system recommend.

    Aren’t I just getting the pet dirty again by recirculating the dirty bath water back on the hair? NO! This is the most common misconception about recirculating bathing. The chemical nature of soaps and detergents is that they contain surfactant molecules which attach and surround particles of dirt and oils and hold them in suspension in the solution. This is true of shampoo, dish soap, laundry detergent, and personal care products. The recirculating bathing system works on principles similar to your washing machine. Now if we could only add the spin cycle!  Just kidding. Your clothes don’t suffer from being jostled around in the dirty wash water because the dirt is held in the solution and not re-deposited onto the clothing fibers. The same holds true of the bathing solution and the pump. The pressure of the pump and the pattern of the spray nozzle replaces the agitation cycle of the washing machine.

    What if there are feces present, does the bath become a cesspool of bacteria? First of all, if the dog or cat urinates or defecates in the bath, you should dump the solution and start over. The bacteria contained in the normal bathing process are kept in solution and killed by the shampoo surfactants. All soaps and detergents are somewhat antibacterial. This is why we wash our hands after going to the bathroom. The idea that you are spreading bacteria all over the dog with the recirculating system is a vicious myth and totally untrue. Common sense dictates, however, that you would not bathe a filthy rear end and then wash the dog’s face. Save the worst for last and then drain the tub and rinse.

    How can I tell if the pet is clean? Your senses of sight, smell, and feel work to tell you when a dog is not clean in the bathing system as they work with hand bathing. You still want to feel the coat to see if it feels gritty, you just don’t need to knead the product through the coat as with hand bathing. You still want to look for discoloration and signs of lingering dirt, and if the dog still smells dirty, it is. Some particularly dirty dogs need two baths, even with a bathing system. If the suds start breaking down in your bath solution and the color becomes very dark, you may have reached the saturation point of that solution. It’s time to drain the tub and draw a second bath.

    It takes a little time to get used to using a bathing system to get the very best results possible. It is possible for people who are resistant to change to not make the necessary adjustments for optimum results from the bathing system. As with just about everything we do in grooming, the bathing system works best when used carefully and systematically, moving the nozzle methodically over each part of the dog. In the beginning, it can seem to take as much time as hand bathing, but as you become more methodical and systematic, great speed can be achieved.

    I’m only bathing 5 or 6 dogs a day, is a bathing system worth it? A recirculating system is of value to all groomers, whether you are bathing two or twenty two dogs. The recirculating system is not only more efficient, but it is more effective, delivering product to each and every hair in a diluted solution with water pressure to help work the dirt out and deliver conditioner like you never thought possible. There is much less likelihood of shampoo reactions and you are loosening old undercoat and working out some tangling right in the tub.

    Here is another point: The preservative ingredients in shampoos that prevent the contamination of the product from fungus, bacteria, and microbes, lose effectiveness with dilution. As soon as you mix shampoo in mixing bottles, you are losing the protection to some degree. If those mixed products sit around longer than a day, you are risking contamination. With a recirculating system, you are mixing product fresh from the manufacturer’s bottle to your tub. Fresh product, fresh water, it’s a fresh bath for every pet!

    Does the bathing system work for conditioning? The recirculating bathing system is a fabulous delivery system for conditioners. The hand bathing method of conditioning usually involves either working concentrated product through the coat by hand and rinsing forever, or mixing a few ounces of product in a pitcher and pouring it on the coat, working it through, and rinsing forever. With these methods you are using a lot of conditioner and you can either over condition some places and/or miss other places. The recirculating system delivers product in and around each and every hair.

There are two ways to condition with a pump system: 1) draw a fresh bath and use 1-2 ounces of conditioner and recirculate through the coat covering each and every hair with just enough conditioner, or 2) work a little concentrated product into the problem areas and then recirculate through those areas and the whole coat.

    How do I use medicated shampoos?

Most medicated shampoos are not intended to be diluted. For full therapeutic effect, you need to follow the instructions on the label. However, you can complete the process by first using the bathing system to wet down the dog, applying the medicated product directly per instructions, wait the suggested amount of time, and then rinse the product through with the pump, before doing a fresh water final rinse.

    Do I need good water pressure for a bathing system?

NO! A pump system can help you get much better baths if you are working with compromised water pressure. The pump provides its own pressure, and it’s plenty. Very little product is left in the coat during the bath, so the final rinse is greatly reduced from that of hand bathing.  If need be, you can even rinse with the pump, drawing another tub of water and running the fresh rinse through with the pump.

    Is cleaning the pump a hassle? Not really. As you bathe and/or condition, some hair may come off the dog and collect on the bottom screen of your pump. With the Bathing Beauty system, for example, this hair is released in a single clump when the pump is turned off. After you drain the tub, you simply lift the pump and scoop up the clump of hair and dispose of it. Having a small 1/2 gallon tub or bucket with a liner beside the tub makes this very easy, just dispose of the liner (plastic shopping bags work) and replace at the end of the day. In the case of heavily shedding dogs, the filter screen may become clogged during bathing. The signs of this are reduced volume coming through the nozzle or growling of the pump. Simply turn off the pump, lift it up and scoop off the collected hair.

Because the recirculating system is so effective at delivering product with water pressure, you may find more hair coming off the dogs during bathing than with hand work. This is a good thing, but you might want to have a drain cover to catch the hair before it goes into your drain. Any bath supply place has these hair catchers. That will keep you from having to dig in the drain to remove collected hair. It will also save you from plumbing problems.

    Speaking of plumbing problems, you are less likely to have clogged drains when using a recirculating system because of using less conditioners. The waxes and oil ingredients used in conditioners as well as the thickeners sometimes collect hair and coat the insides of the drain pipes resulting in clogs. This is much less likely as you reduce the amount of conditioner per bath. Another reason to use that bath tub hair catcher mentioned above.

What kind of maintenance is required?
In between baths you want to keep the filter screen cleaned off. Remove clogged hair and if there is conditioner collected on the screen, rinse it off. It is a good idea to run a solution of 1 gallon water and 1 cup white vinegar through the pump at the end of the day. This will
prevent the little bit of product solution left in the pump and hose to go sour overnight. Another way to take care of that is to flush the pump backwards in the morning before the first bath. Simply remove the nozzle and run fresh water through the hose and out the bottom of the pump.
My pump didn’t turn on when I hit the button, what’s wrong?
Assuming that everything is plugged in and you have electricity, you may have a vapor lock in the pump. This happens sometimes. Sometimes it can be rectified by simply lifting and replacing the pump while running. Or, turn it off and flush the pump by removing the nozzle and running water through the hose and out the bottom of the pump. Another thing that happens sometimes is that the little air hose that runs from the on/off button to the GFCI box becomes accidentally detached. Check it out.
Why are these systems so expensive, can’t I just make my own?
The cost of professional grooming equipment goes far beyond the cost of the parts. Considerable research and development has gone into developing these products. The head of the Hydrosurge Company once told me that it took them eight months to develop the spray pattern on the nozzle of the first Hydrosurge system. Curtis Hanvey of Hanvey Specialty Engineering who makes the Bathing Beauty system is very proud of the flexible hose he found for his system. Every time we buy these things, we pay for the dedication and time spent engineering and problem solving all the parts into a whole functioning and safe system. Yes you can go to the hardware and electrical supply stores and find a pond pump, a hose, a pvc pipe that you poke your own holes into, and even a GFCI box and an air hose. But the chances of your pieces fitting into a whole as perfect as the Hanvey Bathing Beauty or the Hydrosurge bathing systems are slim. For every homemade success story there are countless, less celebrated, failures.
What about contamination from one dog to the next?
The recirculating bathing system is designed to be used with a fresh bath for each dog. However, a very small amount of the previous solution, either shampoo solution or conditioner solution will remain in the pump, as it is “self-priming.” This amounts to two or three tablespoons of diluted product from the previous use. Under normal use this is not of concern. A few tablespoons of diluted product does not compromise the next cycle. It doesn’t hurt the conditioner to have a little shampoo from the bath, nor does it hurt the next bath to have a little conditioner go into the shampoo solution when you first start the pump. The tiny bit of old solution immediately is dispersed and placed in suspension in the fresh solution.
It is good practice and common sense, however, that if you have bathed a dog with a serious skin condition, that you flush the bathing system before using it on the next animal. A cup of white vinegar in a gallon of water is a safe antibacterial cleansing solution. If you are really paranoid, you can substitue one cup of bleach for the vinegar, but if you bleach then you should flush the system backwards by removing the nozzle and running water through the hose back out the pump so that no bleach remains in the pump. THAT can ruin your next bath, or it can rust out metal parts of the pump if left overnight.

Barbara Bird, aka BBird, has been grooming for over 30 years. She owns Transformation Pet Center in Tucson Arizona and has been using a recirculating bathing system since 1995. Barbara writes extensively on the Internet and now has a shopping site where you can purchase a Hanvey Bathing Beauty recirculating system. http//www.bbird.biz will take you directly to the shopping cart. Thanks for considering the advantages of recirculating bathing and the purchase of a Bathing Beauty. If you have further questions, contact the author at petpals@dakotacom.net.

IS THERE ANTI-FREEZE IN MY PET SHAMPOO?

    There is an urban myth circulating through the pet grooming industry that mainstream pet shampoos may contain a toxic anti-freeze ingredient.  In order to dispel this myth, it is necessary to distinguish between ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. 

 Ethylene Glycol (EG) is a moderately toxic chemical that is used primarily as an antifreeze and engine coolant and in the manufacture of PET plastic. When ingested orally, it causes kidney damage and is often fatal, especially to small animals and children.  Ethylene glycol is not used as a cosmetic ingredient.

 Propylene Glycol (PG) is an organic alcohol that is not toxic and is GRAS (Generally Regarded as Safe) by the FDA, and is approved for use as a food additive.  It has been extensively studied.  Dermal application shows no irritation or allergic response.  It is not carcinogenic and does not cause genetic mutation.  Propylene Glycol is one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients.  It is hygroscopic (attracts water from air) and is used as a humectant, moisturizer and skin conditioner.  It also keeps products from drying out. 

Other features of PG are that it is miscible in water and does not react with other ingredients (plays well with others).  It is also used to stabilize products. These properties make it a popular ingredient with cosmetics formulators. 

 Propylene Glycol and Ethylene Glycol share the property of lowering the freezing point of water.  Because of its low toxicity, PG has found use in non-toxic anti-freeze applications.  The answer to the question, “Is there anti-freeze in my pet shampoo?” is “It could be.”  But you might as well ask, “Is there a moisturizer in my anti-freeze?”  The fact that a substance has multiple uses in multiple industries does not render it unsafe or undesirable for cosmetics. 

 Unfortunately, one of the marketing tactics in the highly competitive pet shampoo marketplace is to make consumers uncomfortable with mainstream products by targeting ingredients and fueling misconceptions and rumors about that ingredient.  Propylene Glycol has been the target of this tactic.  Nearly every pet lover is aware that anti-freeze is sure death if ingested in sufficient quantities.  By associating Propylene Glycol with anti-freeze, the fear mongers can then proudly proclaim, “We use no anti-freeze ingredient in our shampoo.”  That claim immediately raises the suspicion that OTHER manufacturers ARE using anti-freeze in their shampoos.  To make matters worse, there are no ingredient lists available for many pet grooming products, so the groomer can’t even check their products for specific items. This lack of transparency creates a fertile field for scare tactics to flourish.

 Allow me to repeat: the toxic ingredient that makes traditional engine anti-freeze deadly is Ethylene Glycol. There is no Ethylene Glycol in pet shampoos. Period. The cosmetic ingredient, Propylene Glycol, has a myriad of applications, including use in NON-TOXIC anti-freeze preparations.  Propylene Glycol has been extensively studied and all studies have been reviewed by the CIR (Cosmetics Ingredient Review) Expert Panel and determined to be safe as used in cosmetics, including shampoos. The National Toxicology Program (NTP) has also ruled that Propylene Glycol is safe.

 REFERENCES & FURTHER READING:

Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether and propylene glycol monomethyl ether: metabolism, disposition, and subchronic inhalation toxicity studies.

Miller RR, Hermann EA, Young JT, Landry TD, Calhoun LL.

www.cosmeticsinfo.org  - search under Propylene Glycol

www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/propylene-glycol

http://personalcaretruth.com/2011/05/a-closer-look-at-propylene-glycol/

http://personalcaretruth.com/2010/09/the-12-most-maligned-cosmetic-ingredients/

http://personalcaretruth.com/2010/09/ingredient-alert/

Hand Stripping the Terrier Mix

The technique of hand stripping is often thought of as belonging to the realm of show dogs or pure breeds. There are times, however, when it is an excellent choice in grooming the terrier mix.  There are some coats that "call out" for hand stripping rather than using clippers.

This is "Sophie".  She is most likely a Westie/Chihuahua mix.
 She has a profuse growth of coarse guard hairs and a dense undercoat of soft hair.  Before finding me, the owner had her groomed professionally once. The dog was clipped close all over and the owner hated it.  The owner was apprehensive about having the dog shaved and hoped that I could accomplish a grooming that would not make this cutie pie look bald and ugly.  

One glance and I saw that hand stripping would be appropriate.  My fingers were itching to start plucking out that bushy stuff!  A few test pinches of the hair confirmed my impression that Sophie was a perfect candidate for hand stripping.  Plucking the hair instead of clipping or cutting it allows the groomer to leave a more natural coat and appearance.  

Tools: Latex gloves are a key tool, as they allow me to efficiently pluck hair with my fingers.  I first tackled the neck and head, mostly plucking.  This picture shows one half of the face and head finished (your right, dog's left) to show the detailing.
 For the body, I chose my favorite stripping knife, the McClellan red knife.  I've got a box full of knives, but most often prefer the McClellans.  For carding out the undercoat, I used a Hindes comb, a staggered tooth fine comb that I recently rediscovered in my tool box.  Final touches were done with small coarse blending shears.  On tender areas, such as underbelly and under the tail, I almost always compromise and use blenders instead of plucking.  

My dirty little secret: I opted to NOT wet bathe this dog.  Why?  Because sometimes the bathing and drying of a hand stripped coat fluffs it up too much and your work looks bad.  I did not have the time to go back over the whole body, and the dog was not stained.  Most of the dirt had come out in removing the excess hair.  Instead of a bath, I dry cleaned using Chris Christensen Dry Breeze, a spray dry cleaner that leaves a crisp coat and delightful fragrance.  I chuckled when Sophie's owner picked her up and said, "Oh, you smell SO GOOD!".  I use the Dry Breeze with a double-sided bristle brush from Sally's Beauty.  It has a stiff side and a soft side.  

I know you are anxious to see the final result.  Here she is! The whole process took a little over one hour.
And here is the hair, or most of the hair I removed from Ms. Sophie.  The big pile on the right is topcoat, the smaller pile on the left is the soft undercoat I carded out.  I usually collect the hair from a hand stripped pet and show it to the owner.  It verifies that you have, indeed, hand stripped their pet, and it helps to justify the price.  

This owner was so happy she tipped me $25.00.  Winning!

HOW NATURAL IS YOUR "NATURAL" PET PRODUCT?

The demand for more natural products and the subsequent marketing of pet products claiming to be “natural” or even “all natural” raises the issue as to the definition of the term.  News Flash: There is no definition of “natural” as applied to pet products, or human cosmetic products.  There are no requirements or regulations governing the use of the claim.  Individual companies simply interpret the term as they wish and apply it to their product or entire product line. 

 In some cases, “natural” is applied when the product contains one or more plant-based ingredients, such as Aloe Vera gel, or an essential oil for fragrance, such as Lavender.  In other cases, a product is deemed “natural” when the working surfactants are derived from natural sources.  Under this definition, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate can be classified as natural, even though they go through a complex chemical transformation from the coconut to the shampoo. (See “Far From the Coconut: A Surfactant’s Journey”  on the Groomblog.)  A few companies are more rigorous in applying the term, and are using ingredients that are certified Organic.  These products usually display a logo on their labels that identifies the use of certified Organic ingredients. 

 The average consumer sees the term “natural” on a label and simply takes the manufacturer’s word for it and thinks, “Oh, good, this is a safe product.”  Everybody wants “natural”, right?  Use of the term is guaranteed to drive sales.  A few skeptical types, like the author, might question, “How natural is it?”  In the case of human cosmetics or personal care products, the consumer or advocate can look at the ingredient list on the label and get a sense of the degree of naturalness of the entire product.  We can determine whether natural-based ingredients are many or few, and if they play an important part of the functioning of the product or are mere window dressing. It is much more difficult to assess claims for pet products.

 Since pet product manufacturers are not required to disclose ingredient information, groomers are often without a means of assessing the degree to which a product marketed as natural lives up to that claim.  The cloak of trade secrecy and lack of regulation that steadfastly surrounds the pet care industry allows manufacturers to describe their products in the terms of their choice.  Unless the company volunteers complete ingredient information, there is no way to validate the “natural” claim. 

 The current trend in pet product labeling is a move to what could be called “dodge ball” ingredient listings.  With this technique, the manufacturer dodges the issue of ingredient identification by using descriptive terms instead of standardized INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) that are used on human products.  By listing ingredients in descriptive terms, as “plant derived cleaning agents”, or “coconut based shampoo base”, the ingredient list appears to support the “all natural” marketing claim for the product.  In INCI terms, however, this could be the same shampoo base of Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamide DEA and Cocamidopropyl Betaine as used in many pet shampoos.  The problem with full INCI names for ingredients is that they look more complex and less natural than the wholesome-appearing descriptive terms. Comparing these standardized technical names, however, is the only way the end consumer has of evaluating the naturalness of a product.  By hiding ingredients or green washing with natural terminology, some pet product manufacturers are able to cash in on the demand for natural without actually changing their product formulas.  It’s the same old monkey in a different costume!  An example of integrity in natural marketing is the ShowSeason Naturals line, a selection of products formulated specifically for green grooming and those seeking truly natural products.  Each product has a full disclosure of ingredients on the product, utilizing the INCI names.  None of the products are claimed to be 100% natural, as the company recognizes that some synthetics have been utilized, especially in the selection of preservatives. 

 Here is a recent interview from the global cosmetics ingredients showcase, In-Cosmetics, in Barcelona.  In this interview, Judi Beerling of Organic Monitor, discusses the natural claim in human personal care products and how it is a matter of interpretation. (Click HERE to go there.)

 

 

 

 

5 REASONS GROOMERS NEED INGREDIENT INFORMATION

Manufacturers of pet grooming products are not required by law to disclose any information about the ingredients of the products they sell.  Although there are a few honorable exceptions, many of these manufacturers continue to maintain a shroud of "trade secrecy" and will even question why groomers would need ingredient information.  Here are a few reasons.

 1.    To be able to assess the extent to which a product is consistent with how it is advertised.   For this very same reason, some manufacturers would rather NOT provide an ingredient list.  They do not like to be called out when the ingredient list does not match the description of a product.  For example, one pricey pet conditioner states in the description that it is a “Cream for loosening difficult tangles.  Its collagen and proteins provide elasticity and softness to the pet’s coat, returning it to the right moisture balance. “  Under this description is the ingredient list.  I have added the main function of each ingredient in parenthesis: Water (diluent), Cetearyl Alcohol (aka emulsifying wax, emulsifier and thickener found in ultra thick conditioners and lotions), Cetrimonium Chloride (conditioner, anti-static), Citric Acid (Acidifier to adjust pH), fragrance,  Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal (three of the 26 fragrance components identified as potential allergens and required by EU law to be identified on EU products.), Cocos nucifera (coconut oil, emollient and moisturizer), PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (emulsifier, probably for the fragrance oil), Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone (Preservatives), CL 19140 CL 42080 (colorants)

Hey, where’s the collagen?  Where’s the protein?  The ingredient list reveals a product consisting mostly of an emulsifying wax, a quaternary conditioning agent, fragrance, and a little bit of coconut oil.  The company continues to market this product as having generous portions of protein and collagen, in spite of their absence in the ingredient line-up.  If there were no ingredient list, we would not know of this absence.  How many of our pet products where there are NO ingredients disclosed have similar discrepancies? 

 2.    To be able to identify the primary ingredients and those that are minor players. Not only do we want manufacturers to identify their ingredients, we should want them listed in the order, by volume, in which they appear in the product. This is the only way we have of knowing whether a touted ingredient is significant in the product or pixie dust at the bottom of the line-up.  Anytime an ingredient is listed below fragrance you either have very little of the ingredient or a whole lot of fragrance. 

 3.    To be able to know if/when the ingredient line-up of a product changes. Don’t you hate it when a favorite product undergoes changes and you don’t know what is different?  We deserve to know what has changed!  In one case, where there was ingredient disclosure, we were able to identify that a company that marketed “No DEA!” replaced the ingredient Cocamide MEA with Cocamide DEA, an easier to use ingredient with greater foaming action.  But they continued to allow the “No DEA” claim to appear in advertising. 

 4.    To be able to make generalizations about what sort of products work or don’t work for us under our individual conditions of use. Without ingredient information, we learn about every new product by trial and error.  We ask each other for anecdotal information (“What is your favorite shampoo”), and when something does not perform well for us, we move on to the next product totally in the dark as to why someone else’s favorite was not so great at our tub.  If we have hard water, we blame our water instead of being able to look for shampoos that contain chelating agents, such as EDTA, or a primary cleanser, such as Alpha Olefin Sulfonate, that performs well in hard water.  

 5.    To identify and avoid specific ingredients that are problematic, especially those that might be irritants or allergic sensitizers.  Post-grooming itching and allergic responses are one of the most common problems related to shampoos and conditioners.  Without specific ingredient identification, it is nearly impossible to pin down what ingredient is causing an allergic response in an animal or staff member.  For every product, there is some individual that may be sensitive to some ingredient.  Although fragrances and colorants are often the culprit, some people and pets can react to preservatives, thickeners, foaming agents, and natural ingredients such as Lanolin.  We could have a class on contact allergy dermatitis and common allergens, but what good would it do if 85% of our products offer no ingredient disclosure? 

 Discussion and Conclusions:  The claim by pet grooming product manufacturers that they are not disclosing ingredient information because they do not want to reveal “trade secrets” to their competition is simply bogus.  Any manufacturer (or individual with money) can submit a competitor’s product to a deformulating lab for analysis and what is called “reverse engineering”.  This can yield a reasonably accurate recipe for the tested product, way more than an ingredient list reveals.  The real reason for not disclosing ingredients is that they don’t want groomers to know what is in the bottle.  They want to be able to sell the products on the basis of marketing hype and puffery, and leave us with no option but to take their word for what is actually there.  They don’t want us to be able to figure out that a signature ingredient is either absent or present in just a pinch.  They want to be able to tout their products as being significantly different from others when there may be more similarities than differences. 

     There is one rationale for reluctance to share ingredient information with which I can sympathize with our companies.  That is the fear that groomers will try to avoid certain ingredients based on Internet smear campaigns.  There is considerable fear mongering that is used to make consumers wary of mainstream human cosmetic ingredients and to steer them toward alternative products.  One much maligned ingredient is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, which has virtually disappeared from most human shampoos, but is still an important ingredient in the formulation of many pet shampoos.  Because there is so little education of groomers about products and ingredients, there is little to counteract the fear of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate that can be created by researching on the Internet.  Manufacturers of pet products are justified in a concern that groomers might jump to conclusions about their products based on misinformation on the Internet.  Silicones are a whole class of ingredients that have a bad rap on the Internet based on misinformation and deliberate fear mongering without an iota of scientific basis.  Silicones have been so successfully knocked about that one of our companies who pioneered their whole line of products based on the functional superiority of silicone ingredients and is now almost hiding the fact that their products contain silicones as primary working ingredients. We have to dig deep within the company website to find that they are still using Amodimethicone.  They would have us believe that silk proteins are the major player in their products.   Another company flat out lies and makes the claim that they use “no silicones” when their detangling gel product is primarily silicone polymer.  By hiding or denying their use of silicones, companies are by default empowering the fear mongering around these ingredients.  They are completely missing the opportunity to educate their users and our industry as to the facts and science around the functional advantages of silicones, because they are afraid that groomers won’t “get it right.”   This insults our intelligence! 

 What is a good list?  It is simple: full disclosure means identification of all ingredients in the order in which they appear by volume in the product, using INCI names.  INCI, International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients, is a naming system that uses standardized ingredient names and is recognized internationally.  Names of ingredients that simply describe the ingredient, such as “Coconut Surfactant”, or “thickening agent”, rather than identifying it, are dodgeballs.  Using chemical suppliers names or industry jargon names, such as “Lauramide D” (Lauramide DEA is correct) is confusing rather than clarifying; using chemical descriptions, such as “EGMS Fatty Acid Esters” is beating around the bush to baffle the reader into submission.  But EGMS sounds less daunting than Ethylene Glycol Monostearate, the INCI name.  By the way, this is simply a pearlizing agent.  In an ideal world, we would be able to know each ingredient by its technical, INCI name, as well as its function in the particular product.  A few companies provide this information in the way of product tech sheets, or on their websites.  

    There is a light beginning to shine, slowly and gradually, as companies are bending to the pressure to become more transparent about ingredients.  But many are still dodging and dancing, giving up bits and pieces or using language that it unstandardardized, inconsistent, or baffling.  Groomers can help bring our industry into the twenty first century by supporting those courageous companies thst are sharing clear and complete ingredient information, and shunning those that are not.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Evolution of the Bichon Head

Let's talk for a minute about who sets a "proper breed profile" style, or a show style. This applies to Bichons and all the breeds, really. No one person says, "it is this" Styles shift and evolve. The show style is a manifestation or reflection of how the breeder or show handler is interpreting the breed standard. Key individuals, usually outstanding handler/groomers or breeder/handlers often set trends. 

One person instrumental in the development of the Bichon Frise grooming style was Frank Sabella a renowned handler, who gave a grooming seminar to the Bichon Frise Club of America in 1969, which set the stage for the sculpted style of today. Mr. Sabella went on to judge the breed internationally at some of the most significant dog show events. Another breeder/handler who has been recognized as a leading stylist of the breed is Paul Flores, co-owner of Paray Kennels and one of the most winning handlers in the breed ring over the last 15 years. 

The rounded head style that we see today has not always been the case. In the 70's, the ears were still distinct and the beard was left long.

The 1980's featured the very full bell-shaped head. 

The pictures above are from the website of Fountainbleau Bichons.  Sometimes the bell head featured a more exaggerated beard.  From The World of the Bichon Frise, by Anna Katherine Nicholas, I found this photo of Ch.Craigdale's  Olé Rhondi, the top-winning Bichon of 1983.

In this picture, we also see the cut out eyes and the Bichon "ledge" (my term) over the eyes.  Today, the ledge looks like this:

This is "Lucy", in 2008, handled by Lisa Bettis.

The round head of today started appearing in the 1990's, first with the shortening of the beard, and then rounding the ears into the headpiece.  Nowadays, it is not uncommon to see show heads that are actually a bit higher on the top of the head than long underneath. Bichon heads in the show ring can differ from week to week on the same dog, depending on the choices of the particular handler presenting the dog.

In pet grooming, the round head requires a lot to be taken off the ears. The owner has to be willing to give up the flowing ears. Way more than the bottom of the ears are trimmed; creating the "circle" necessitates cutting through the sides of the ears as well. Most importantly, there is no definition in front of the ears. The sides of the head are combed out to the ears, and only that hair that sticks out beyond the sides of the ears is trimmed. To avoid a heavy look to the face, it can be dished out a bit, and trimmed from outside corner of the eyes to the outside line of the circle. Cutting out under the ears does help to create a smaller, tighter circle, but can backfire if you cut too much.

Here is an even smaller Bichon pet head.  Round, cut out around the eyes. Not a show dog, but still a Bichon Frise!