Battling Static Cling!

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Static electricity in the salon got you down?

I personally don’t like to use fabric softener sheets but they DO work wonders for ending static electricity on your uniform and on your grooming table.

Simply place one in the bottom of each of your shoes to stop those gobs of slippery hair sticking to your feet, and one in the pocket of your grooming smock to help stop its sticking to your uniform.

If you’re extra desperate you can even take one and rub it across the surface of your grooming table a couple of times through the day to help alleviate hair sticking there as well.

 

For your tools and the dog a good coat conditioner during the bathing process and a follow up scissoring/anti-static spray is still the best method. This does a great job at alleviating sticky situations as well as those electric shocks!

 

Try to avoid misting with simple water as it can actually make the problem worse once it evaporates!

 

Static electrical charge can actually work to lift the hair cuticle surface as well!

HV dryers are great at getting the coat dry, but those warm magnetic motors actually can generate additional static charge once the coat is dry if adequate remoisturizing has not been done to the skin and coat.

 

This causes a greater possibility of coat damage during combing and brushing, and lots of tangling while at home between grooming visits. 

Dry, damaged coats and white, porous coats are at an immediate static charge disadvantage as soon as we strip away skin oil during the bathing process.

 

Never underestimate the importance of your coat conditioners and grooming sprays to help smooth the hair shaft, return a bit of moisture lost during cleansing, provide slip for your tools, and to add to overall hair strength and coat health!

 

#themindfulgroomer


Enough Is Enough

Tell me again how this industry should not require industry-specific testing, require continued education each year, have local business registration and licensing alongside industry certification, how we shouldn’t have a system in place for accountability and reporting when our groomers witness this type of ongoing behavior only to be met with no opportunity for professional monitoring when we are the ones who best recognize mishandling. 

We as “professional caregivers” can’t even report blatant disregard for even the most minimum of care and handling practices being upheld.

WE are ASKING to be governed over by not getting our shit together.

Tell me again how groomers like this should be allowed to just keep on doing this, publicly posting it, with no industry repercussion, making us all look like we might be capable of hurting the very animals that we claim to be caring for.

And tell me again how this type of shit doesn’t put us directly in the crosshairs of the same legislators we definitely do NOT want randomly governing us, because of this type of stuff going on and pet owners pushing for accountability.

 

Put down the torches and pitchforks on social media and groomer forums, and pick up the phone!

Call your local groomers, put a group together and then call your local legislators, introduce yourself, and pledge to them that you want these things to stop and will work to be an advocate for professionals like yourself so these types of groomers can no longer continue doing this.

Video after video on her channel, dog after dog... they deserve more. 

We deserve more as an entire industry.

 

I wish we could all be left alone to groom happily and peacefully in this industry... but it’s apples like this that make the whole bushel look bad. And people like this aren’t going anywhere unless we do something about it.

 

PS- THIS DOG WAS REVIVED. 

And the owner then stayed tableside to hold it down while she finished.

Anyone ever had a dog seizure on your table before? 

Would you finish the groom on the poor thing?!

The owner allowed this dog to be a matted mess and then helped push it through an awfully stressful and painful groom just to get it done- which are two strokes on him, IMO. 

Want owner accountability for neglect or for them not to be able to blame us for things we didn’t do? Then industry regulation and networking between pro groomers needs to happen, because no time soon is a state going to view a dog as anything more than personal property like that of a suitcase- unless we push for that, too.

 

Video found at:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=T6qTxVjRjWU&fbclid=IwAR3_kcPYzkLATsCLhDgy9Lg7Qc6uYSnUUNokzTMeVWdaFUVrz0zvzv6nGNs


Honoring Our Seniors

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We need to honor and respect and appreciate our senior pets that come to us for care. 

We need to slow down and have empathy and exude kindness and patience when they come to us for the care that they very much need in order to have quality of life. 

We as professionals in the business of offering CARE... must be willing to actually CARE.

 

We have to be willing to step back from a place of duty, and work from a place of the heart.

We need to respect our clients who have faithfully brought their pets to us, which in turn has supported our business and us caring for ourselves and our families and bestow that mutual appreciation to the end. 

 

We too, will grow old someday. Mind that thought. 

For yourself, you would never want to be at the mercy of someone taking care of you without kindness, honor, respect and patience for all you’ve experienced, all you’ve given, and how little you ask for in return.

 

#themindfulgroomer


Another Facet of This Pandemic for Groomers

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All of the puppies sold and dogs adopted during a pandemic add up to a whole generation of dogs entering into pet homes without proper socialization. 

At home stays means in-person training programs are off the menu, as well as puppy socialization get-togethers and classes.

Not even being able to have friends over means all of these pets have had very limited interaction with anyone outside of their immediate family unit and only inside their own homes.

 

So for us as groomers that means we’re going to be caring in the next few months for a whole lot of puppies that haven’t been socialized, adult dogs Who already had baggage when they entered into the rescue or shelter system, that have now been living in a very small bubble, and are likely going to be completely overwhelmed when they are put up on our grooming table.

 

Understanding canine behavior and body language and being willing to slow down to get these dogs started off on the right foot is always of paramount importance. But thanks to the pandemic there’s a new element of pretty much no socialization across-the-board that we will have to learn to navigate.

 

#themindfulgroomer


Dealing With Dry Eyes

Dealing With Dry Eye

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Eyes use tears as a method of naturally cleansing and hydrating the surface of the eyes. 

Dogs with larger eyes generate more tear production, and therefore are more prone to both weepy eyes and then dry eyes they age.

 

Typically we have to clean up around the eye area quite a bit due to tear drainage and environmental pathogen accumulation, but as groomers we also see a lot of dogs with dry eyes, especially as part of the aging process.

In these instances we can have different presenting symptoms that have to be addressed during the grooming visit.

Eyes void of tears or moisture are *extremely sensitive*, painful, present a host of serious visual symptoms, and can put the dog on high alert due to the pain.

 

Aside from communicating what we see to our pet owners in hopes that they will remedy the situation on a medical level, there’s a few things we need to do in the salon when working alongside these symptoms.

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During the bathing process we have to remember that a dry eyes will not have the surface lubricated adequately. This means that when we get shampoo in the eyes, there’s really no place for it to go except directly against the eyeball and lid membrane it’s self. 

 

This could create a world of trouble & a lot of pain! 

 

I highly recommend with dogs that have crusty eyes that we first wet the face with adequate water and use a mild face cleanser as we *gently* clean up the eye area and then immediately rinse before moving on with bathing the rest of the dog.

 

Once the bath and rinsing is done I highly recommend a lubricating eyedrop be applied to each eye before moving to the drying process.

 

Some groomers prefer mineral oil and that is personal preference. 

However mineral is messy and it can actually cause water-based shampoo to ride around on the surface of the eye opposite the oil, and redeposit under the lid possibly causing severe ulceration.

 

When  you have finished grooming, it’s very important for you to check the moisture level on the surface of the eye and carefully remove any hair splinters or particles that came into contact with the eyeballs or lids during the haircutting process.

 

I would never carefully wipe away hair splinters without applying more lubricating eyedrop solution as this can cause severe eye irritation.

 

Without doing this as a final step, it is possible for the hair splinters and any other particular debris to just sit on the eye instead of the adequately rinse away as it normally would.

 

If the owner has eyedrops from the veterinarian, then urge them to reapply once they get home. 

I do not personally recommend administering any type of prescription from the salon storefront due to liability unless their veterinarian has issued a *written consent form* for you to administer in their absence. 

‼️The same goes for medicated shampoo and eardrops!😉

 

More medical info on dry eye, or Keratoconjunctivitis sicca:

 https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/keratoconjunctivitis-sicca-kcs-or-dry-eye-in-dogs

 

#themindfulgroomer


Quick Setting Beard Length

Super quick tip to set in the length of beard hair on the lower jaw. 

Choosing the correctly proportionate length for this in comparison to overall style will help you frame the face, keep the head in total proportion for balance and symmetry, add length & gracefulness to the neck on certain breeds, and keep their beard a little cleaner between visits. 😉

 

#themindfulgroomer

 

 


Groomer Tip! When Clippered Coats Go Bad

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MANY groomers ask me why terrier or terrier mix breeds become fine and lackluster in color as they grow out from clippering. 

 

Well......🤔🤓

 

Harsh guard coat that is actively growing has the highest concentration of pigment deposit. 

The more harsh the texture, the more pigment will reside within the hair shaft.

Melanin (pigment) granules reside deep in the hair shaft along the cortex and beneath the cortical fibrils.

Hair in a resting phase will not be as harshly textured or deeply pigmented as a actively (anagen) phase hair.

 

When you clip hair off above the skin, that only removes the length of coat which is visible to us.

What’s still seated in the hair follicle cup is the remaining length of the hair shaft. 

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As the hair moves into a resting (catagen) phase, the pigment is lessened drastically as is the thickness and texture because the hair is no longer actively growing. 

As this hair is slowly pushed up in the follicle cup it will be fine (having a thinner and more porous cuticle), be poorly colored (lackluster), and usually doesn’t reflect light very well or have gloss/shine.

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As well, repeated clippering of haircoat from long to short also sit in the stratum corny him layer of skin. Thicker skin produces finer/thinner hair.

And as a final consideration, dogs of the Terrier class cycle through coat differently than any other breed class. They do not produce actively growing hair from deeper within the follicle until the resting or dormant phases are adequately removed.

There are a few more facets of this considering hormone/endocrine changes, underlying medical conditions, side effects from medications, the dog’s overall health and being able to maintain core temperature & skin oil/moisture levels, secondary microflora imbalances of the skin’s microbiome, etc. 

But, to get from point A to point B this is the simplest route of general insight into this phenomenon.


Contour Trim on a Double Coat

A double feature this week on contour trimming double and triple (Nordic and Primitive breeds like Spitz, Pom, Nordic Working breeds, Chow, Collie, Sheltie, etc, etc.) coated breeds, and why it’s so important to *treat the whole coat* of these dogs first before taking off any length.

I do understand that perhaps some breeders of these breeds or purists who believe trimming of feathering is a sacrilege, may be triggered by this post. 

In the reality of pet dogs going into a pet grooming salon there are times when functionality in a family environment necessitates shorter trimming of coat. As long as the dog’s overall health is not threatened, I don’t feel there’s anything wrong with a tailored trim, and knowing how to accomplish it effectively is important for pet groomers to know.

 

 

 

#themindfulgroomer


Bathing & Intro to the Role of Water

A brief demo of my typical bathing method on non-symptomatic skin and coat, and a simplified explanation of the role of water in the bathing process.

 

** Always follow your bathing with a conditioner to replace sebum removed by your cleanser. **

Stick to a separate two step process- combining shampoo & conditioner together cancels out the full ability of either product.

 

-Much generalized itching for dogs is simply lack of adequate skin moisture and dead coat removal. 

 

~Thanks to Mikah for being patient while I squawked on & on. 😣 Next time I will wait to put the dog in the tub before I start recording so they don’t have to wait. 😕

~~~~

Reminder NOT to apply a harsh shampoo (clarifying, or whitening) to dry coat as it can be a little too overly stripping and the water will act as a buffer.

For most containing shampoos including protein shampoos, dry coat application is beneficial. 

 

Whitening shampoos applied to dry coat, depending on formulation (is it an optical brightener or true stain lifter?) can deposit blueing agents into the hair cortex resulting in major staining.
#themindfulgroomer